Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[smfdoc]

The NOS Hanover LWBs arrived today and I decided to compare them to Florsheims. I do not think a detailed comparison is appropriate as the 3312 Hanovers were made for a long period of time and with many slight variations, such as the number of eyelets. I consulted @davidVC and he estimates these Hanovers were likely made in the late 1970s and the Florsheims were made in 1996. The Hanovers on the right are duller, but this is the way they came from the factory, whereas the Florsheims have received wax and additional care.

My chief initial observation is in the differences of "fit and finish." The Hanovers either use 2 or 3 rows of stitching around the brogue, compared to Florsheim using 4 rows.

The stitch per inch count is higher in the Florsheim. Finally, the level of sewing accuracy is higher in the Florsheim. The 2 rows of stitches are tight with the brogue and straight where the Hanover is a single row and can tend to wander.

Overall, I would have to still give the Florsheim the victory in terms of quality, but the Hanover is still a fine Made in USA shoe that deserves your attention.

 

[Raimar]

Need to do some work on these. Just ran some alcohol pads on the insides and added some bick 4 to the outside. Real nice look and feel. Wright Arch Preserver

 

[smfdoc]

Happy Sunday forum pals.

 

[smfdoc]

I mentioned the Hanover shoes posted yesterday were dull in color. After some applications of wax, they still seemed ...just...flat. I finally decided the original color may have somehow fade or flattened in the years since they were made and I decided to add some color. An application of Collonil 1909 in black did seem to darken the color towards a better black and it also helped with the shine component. I think it will just take more time ad work to get them where I wanted them to be for a shoe their age.

 

[friendlygoz]

Keith Highlanders today…

 

[JFWR]

I mentioned the Hanover shoes posted yesterday were dull in color. After some applications of wax, they still seemed ...just...flat. I finally decided the original color may have somehow fade or flattened in the years since they were made and I decided to add some color. An application of Collonil 1909 in black did seem to darken the color towards a better black and it also helped with the shine component. I think it will just take more time ad work to get them where I wanted them to be for a shoe their age.

View attachment 1973099

Use dark blue and you will get a deep, inky black.

 

[suitforcourt]

Mason Monday.

B Mason Executive Imperials for a rainy day.

Martin Sugg rebuilt these tier 2 shoes to make them last a few more decades.

House leather soles. Cat paw heels. Vibram Raptor sole protectors and toe taps.

One of my first vintage/used pairs and remain amongst my favourite.

 

[smfdoc]

Use dark blue and you will get a deep, inky black.

I received navy blue cream today and it did appear to help create a nice black. Its raining outside so I can take a comparison shot but I am pleased.

 

[JFWR]

I received navy blue cream today and it did appear to help create a nice black. Its raining outside so I can take a comparison shot but I am pleased.

It's miraculous how much darker the shoes appear with navy. I think it is because many black polishes have tones of grey in them.

 

[sam67]

I was in Lancaster PA over the weekend. Not too far from Hanover. Found these Montereys from the 1970 catalog. Last owner did a good job blending them darker to hide some dings. It amazes me though how supple the leather is once cleaned and hydrated. I’m convinced the polish of yesterday wasn’t very good stuff. These were cleaned with renomat, Bick 4 applied, and Saphir medium brown.
I need to start selling drugs to pay for the shoe resole jobs and clothes alterations I need.

 

[JFWR]

I was in Lancaster PA over the weekend. Not too far from Hanover. Found these Montereys from the 1970 catalog. Last owner did a good job blending them darker to hide some dings. It amazes me though how supple the leather is once cleaned and hydrated. I’m convinced the polish of yesterday wasn’t very good stuff. These were cleaned with renomat, Bick 4 applied, and Saphir medium brown.
I need to start selling drugs to pay for the shoe resole jobs and clothes alterations I need.
View attachment 1973553 View attachment 1973551 View attachment 1973555 View attachment 1973561

The problem is lots of men just used kiwi and never hydrated.

 

[sam67]

The problem is lots of men just used kiwi and never hydrated.

But it also 'preserved' them in some way, fortunately. Leather is amazing stuff.

 

[smfdoc]

Now that the black and navy blue have been applied, with a final application of Collonil 1909 in neutral, it's time for an initial wearing to get them broken in. They are now much blacker with some shine than they arrived. That shot is spoilered for comparison.

Spoiler: Original condition

Subtle changes on photos, but much better in person

 

[suitforcourt]

Mason Tuesday.

This pair really highlights the tier 2 status. Plastic welts, cheap CG, likely artificial materials for most of the uppers, and plastic soles. For the latter piece, a cobbler actually didn't recommend adding a sole protector to provide some grip.

These are great rain shoes.

 

[eTrojan]

1957 Florsheim short wings.