Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[archibaldleach]

New York. 13oz wool feels like paper most days from about Nov to March. Even with 18oz, I’ll still need a down coat I imagine, but at least my legs should be kept reasonably warm.

I found Minnis 14 woolen flannel worked well in Chicago winters. Of course, I can't say I'm not curious to try a 16-18 ounce cloth too one day.

 

[Concordia]

The LL Flannel makes up beautifully, and looks good all day. I don't know if it is any warmer than a Minnis 14oz. But you still need to decide if you'll have cold weather for two or three months before breaking it out, so you can justify the subsequent spring cleaning.

 

[lordsuperb]

No, but

Do you work in your jacket, when you are at of the your desk?
Are the jacket sleeves large enough for your forearms and biceps?

These factors could cause more wear than usual.

I keep my jacket on all day because I can't be bothered to iron my shirts.

 

[lordsuperb]

The LL Flannel makes up beautifully, and looks good all day. I don't know if it is any warmer than a Minnis 14oz. But you still need to decide if you'll have cold weather for two or three months before breaking it out, so you can justify the subsequent spring cleaning.

It looks like the LL flannel is no more.

 

[gopherblue]

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/10-suit-wardrobe.310941/

Been a loooong time since I frequented these forums...had a job that didn’t require much more than the occasional sport coat with jeans, so I let SF fall by the wayside, but I’m now back to a suit and tie job.

Looking for some advice, as I need to build a wardrobe.

I presently have four suits:

A mid grey Barbera for H.Lesser flannelish suit, a Minnis Fresco RAF blue 0520 blazersuit, a Minnis Fresco midgrey 0511 blazersuit, and a charcoal grey worsted suit, as well as several odd jackets and trousers.

I will mostly be required to wear suits to work, but sport coats and trousers are ok once a week or so. Obviously, I need to add some additional suits. I’m not sure how many.

Looking for advice/recommendations on fabrics and mills. I’m initially thinking another blazersuit in Minnis Fresco 0516, solid navy. A good all-around suit, and I love Fresco since it wears like iron and has a great texture. But Fresco isn’t so great for the colder months (although I get away with it in all but the coldest).

Besides the Fresco, any recommendations? I tend to favor greys (and even browns). I don’t like stripes, but I love large, open windowpanes. And I love texture/subtle interest in fabrics.

Are there any donegal tweeds that aren’t too heavy and that can make up a good suit for a lawyer?

What are the current darlings of the unfunded liability denizens? Looking for quality goods.

Thanks!

Thanks for pointing me to that thread—it’s a good reference.

I ended up opting for a charcoal Minnis Fresco and a dark navy Birdseye from Harrison’s, which Frank @ Ercole’s recommended. Making up both as 2r3 Blazersuits.

 

[WillingToLearn]

birdseye is not a great choice for a blazersuit - birdseye is pretty much always suiting and looks bad, imo, as a SC. interested to hear how frank does for you.

 

[gopherblue]

birdseye is not a great choice for a blazersuit - birdseye is pretty much always suiting and looks bad, imo, as a SC. interested to hear how frank does for you.

Fair point. Although it isn’t really a blazersuit other than it is a SB 3r2, with standard chest pocket and patch lower pockets. So far, with the exception of my wedding suit all my suits and SCs have patch pockets. Frank’s got my pattern and fit pretty much dialed in, as I have a number of pieces he’s made me over the years.

 

[Stugotes]

How does one get on the waiting list for NYC?

I don't know, I went to his atelier in Florence. I'm in Europe, though, so that's probably not an option for Americans.

 

[HuggyBear]

I’m torn between commissioning birdeyes charcoal versus flannel charcoal for a DB business suit. If anyone has a reason for one over the other I’d be keen to know. Cheers

 

[sebastian mcfox]

I’m torn between commissioning birdeyes charcoal versus flannel charcoal for a DB business suit. If anyone has a reason for one over the other I’d be keen to know. Cheers

Birdseye is more durable and will last you longer. It could also be more versatile depending on the weight of the cloth and your climate

 

[HuggyBear]

Birdseye is more durable and will last you longer. It could also be more versatile depending on the weight of the cloth and your climate

Thanks Seb. The Birdseye is 13.5oz/400g whilst the flannel is 13oz. I was considering using the flannel trousers as an occasional separate but on second thought that’ll wear it out in no time so I’m going to go for the birdeyes

 

[sebastian mcfox]

Thanks Seb. The Birdseye is 13.5oz/400g whilst the flannel is 13oz. I was considering using the flannel trousers as an occasional separate but on second thought that’ll wear it out in no time so I’m going to go for the birdeyes

Though I should also say charcoal flannel looks fantastic. Depending on how many suits you have and rotation the durability of Birdseye over flannel may be less of a selling point

 

[IJReilly]

Flannel is an incredibly beautiful cloth, but birdseye is more versatile in terms of temperature and more hard wearing. If you live in a cold country and own lots of suits, then flannel has much to recommend it. Otherwise I would go for the birdseye, from a purely practical point of view. But it's also not wrong to buy something just because you love it (in fact, it's a great idea). I can't justify a dark gray, slightly patterned flannel suit, but I will buy one at some point because I love the idea of it. I already own twice as many suits as I need (two).

 

[The Chai]

I have yet to have a flannel suit but I have always thought flannel looks more cool...birdseye feels normal/standard and strictly business. I think a flannel would be more versatile in terms of dressing up/down but not for weather

 

[HuggyBear]

I already have 8 suits made up in the last year alone having decided to revamp my wardrobe. I live in England so winters can be cold. Despite having enough suits, I’m yet to own a flannel so perhaps I will in the near future but for this commission I’ve gone for the birdeyes for durability and the fact that it creases less. I also think it drapes well.

With 5 of my suits being SB, I’m going for DB now as I keep buying navy (6) and grey (2) so my way of mixing it up a little is SB vs DB and changing shoulders from roped to soft. Thanks guys