Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[bjhofkin]

I think it’s just a lot of work for them. No one is saying the fabric is bad. How are you liking your coat btw? My tailor said it’s really thick and heavy. I chuckled to myself (knowing what kotaro said about it).

My coat should be delivered in a month or so, so I’m excited about that. Would I buy the fabric again? Probably know. 3k just in fabric isn’t cheap; but, now that I have it, I’m going to enjoy that indulgence on myself.

I absolutely love it! And Qemal did a *tremendous* job with it.

 

[bjhofkin]

Kotaro bitched about how hard it was to stitch a pre-Harrisons W. Bill Irish linen 13oz suit I ordered from some years ago. I've never heard this from any of my other tailors. Maybe he just likes to complain. But 1kg cashmere is just too much to make and to use IMHO. Only Alden can sell this idea and get his followers to fill the orders.

First of all, my understanding is that Kotaro doesn't love heavier cloths *in general* (I could be wrong as I've never worked with him); Qemal, on the other hand, loves them.

As far as your second point that 1kg is too much…as a Minnesotan I'm here to tell you that, in particular climates and conditions, it's NOT. On the contrary, anything except a truly heavyweight coat is basically an ornament here between mid-December and mid-March – that is, fully a quarter of the year.

 

[JohnMRobie]

First of all, my understanding is that Kotaro doesn't love heavier cloths *in general* (I could be wrong as I've never worked with him); Qemal, on the other hand, loves them.

As far as your second point that 1kg is too much…as a Minnesotan I'm here to tell you that, in particular climates and conditions, it's NOT. On the contrary, anything except a truly heavyweight coat is basically an ornament here between mid-December and mid-March – that is, fully a quarter of the year.

Should come in handy this weekend and next week.

 

[JibranK]

Who are Kotaro and Qemal?

 

[classicalthunde]

Who are Kotaro and Qemal?

Two popular Florentine tailors. Kotaro is Sartoria CorCos and Qemal is ex-Liverano and operates his own shop now.

Side note - I thought @Crispyj recently said that Kotaro wouldn't do ulster coats over 600g...is that a result of breaking all his needles on 1kg cashmere?

 

[jonathanS]

First of all, my understanding is that Kotaro doesn't love heavier cloths *in general* (I could be wrong as I've never worked with him); Qemal, on the other hand, loves them.

As far as your second point that 1kg is too much…as a Minnesotan I'm here to tell you that, in particular climates and conditions, it's NOT. On the contrary, anything except a truly heavyweight coat is basically an ornament here between mid-December and mid-March – that is, fully a quarter of the year.

Agreed. I believe our friend kochel is in Hong Kong. In Hong Kong, I think anything over 500grams is kinda pointless.

Glad to hear you like your coat.

Two popular Florentine tailors. Kotaro is Sartoria CorCos and Qemal is ex-Liverano and operates his own shop now.

Side note - I thought @Crispyj recently said that Kotaro wouldn't do ulster coats over 600g...is that a result of breaking all his needles on 1kg cashmere?

I’m not sure about the 600g limit. But I’m told it’s because the 1kg cashmere.

Kotaro bitched about how hard it was to stitch a pre-Harrisons W. Bill Irish linen 13oz suit I ordered from some years ago. I've never heard this from any of my other tailors. Maybe he just likes to complain. But 1kg cashmere is just too much to make and to use IMHO. Only Alden can sell this idea and get his followers to fill the orders.

it wasn’t Alden who convinced me - I was talking to frank shattuck and he convinced me that this fabric wouldn’t come around again. And I have a natural weakness for cashmere - especially heavier dense cashmere.

The people who say “it’s too much” - none of them have tried it. So take that for what it’s worth. It’s a special fabric, BUT, there’s no getting around it - it’s expensive. I’m not sure I’d pay that much again. But doesn’t make it not special.

 

[Bellini]

not to say it isn't worth it, but man...that is a hefty price tag for the fabric! You're almost duty bound to give it to an A+ tailor.

Imagine it being pilfered at the local bowling alley coat check.

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

Kotaro has done a number of sports coats for me in LL tweed without any complaints, without any complaints. Not sure about heavy overcoat fabrics

 

[jonathanS]

Imagine it being pilfered at the local bowling alley coat check.

I had a nightmare like that once. Thankfully I woke up, albeit in a cold sweat. 😂

 

[Bellini]

I had a nightmare like that once. Thankfully I woke up, albeit in a cold sweat. 😂

Heart pounding, ringing the coat check bell to no avail. Attendant finally shows up, bearing uncanny resemblance to Kotaro. ''I never seen or heard of any Everest cashmere...''

 

[Despos]

Imagine it being pilfered at the local bowling alley coat check.

Happened to a client at a very exclusive restaurant in NYC.
Made him a navy blue cashmere wrap coat.
It was taken from the restaurant and they left him a RL topcoat In it‘s place.
What made it worse was having all his keys, a few business papers in a pocket. Also lost gloves and a vicuña scarf.
Remade it with Millionaire‘s Cashmere.
Don’t recall the mill but it was a really great cashmere back in the day.