Tom Ford suits/jackets are the first article of clothing I've been in love with

[MethusalehHoneysuckle]

I've recently purchased my 12th Tom Ford suit/jacket, and I have to say, never in my life have a cherished an article of clothing as much.

I started getting into suits and jackets back in 2023 after dressing, quite frankly, like a slob my entire life. Out of sheer randomness, I happened to binge a few series in a row where most of the main cast was in suits the entire time, and I really started to think to myself "these guys look so put together, and I could do the same thing if I dressed better."

I started off mostly buying Isaia items I found with Top Shelf Apparel and really gained an appreciation for quality through them. Over time I picked up a couple of Kitons and a few other labels, and really felt like I was hitting a very different stride of fashion.

Then I started watching Suits, and sat slack jawed at Harvey Specter's look.

I'd picked up bits of sartorial knowledge at this point in terms of styling, construction, etc, but the pieces he was wearing were out of this world. Wide peak lapels, five button functional cuffs, strong structured shoulders, the classic ticket pocket: all of it just shouted "man in charge" and I was entranced.

I immediately looked up "what suits does harvey specter wear?" and was pleased to see many people had the same question and that it was answered several times.

I knew that eventually Garrison Bespoke was the maker, but the style that served as the genesis to his look through the series all started with Tom Ford's unusual but steadfast combination of lapels, pockets, and other details. I knew they were all made by Zegna as well; a label with an impressive pedigree and a reputation for high quality.

Like many on this forum, the full retail price was out of reach for me, but it was possible to find them discounted on both regular retail sites (Mr Porter, Luisa Viaroma and others) and eBay listings. Over time, I managed to amass:

• Two sport jackets
• Three dinner jackets
• Seven suits
  • Light gray 3 piece O'Connor
  • Medium gray glen plaid 3 piece Windsor
  • Dark gray 3 piece O'Connor
  • Dark gray glen plaid Shelton
  • Blue windowpane Windsor
  • Dark blue glen plaid Shelton
  • Black and white gingham Atticus

They're almost all a 52IT/42R (the Atticus is a 54IT). I'm 6' 3" and around 200lbs with a very athletic build, and honestly, these suits fit like they were custom tailored for me. Almost everything I would buy previously that was RTW I would buy with basted sleeves because they were always too short stock, but Tom Ford was different. Every jacket was around an 18.5" shoulder, 21.5" chest, 26" sleeve and 31" length, and every one of them I put on would be hard pressed to fit better straight from a tailor.

On top of the fit, they also just feel amazing. My Isaias and Kitons certainly feel extremely well made, but all the Tom Ford suits I have manage to simultaneously feel like a suit of armor while also feeling unbelievably light and mobile. I never feel constrained, never feel bulky, never feel uncomfortable: it all feels like a second skin made of worsted wool and panache.

Thanks for listening to my rant about this; just felt like I had to share it with a community who understands loving clothing like this.

 

[othertravel]

If you're inclined to do so, you can pay a 50% upcharge to have the suit 'handmade'. Meaning, TF suits are largely machine made, but the upcharge will get you handmade details (basically Zegna Couture/Atelier standard).

But yes, best RTW brand for suits, imho.

 

[Rixon]

I've learned over time that how something fits and looks to you is far more important than then technical details that are easy to get caught up in. Sometimes having some parts of a suit made by machine is no different than hand and hand done is no promise of durability, fit, or aesthetic. I have dozens of suits by most notable brands, but TF certainly is one of my top favourites.

I learned a while ago it's a misnomer how Tom Ford is made by Zegna. Tom Ford purchased the factory from Zegna Couture, a higher line of quality. But just because it's purchased, doesn't mean the factory is used in the same way or artisans are used in the same way as the original company. Even if a company uses someone as a supplier, it doesn't mean the factory will keep the same standards as their own line when producing. Sometimes they will, sometimes they won't. https://ezrapaul.com/blogs/news/tom-ford This person did a direction that shows a few notable improvements of this specific TF jacket over a Zegna.

I've learned a few lessons:
- My Loro cashmere's pill sooner or later and my Cucinelli do not
- Cucinelli has the best customer service I've ever had
- My Kiton sweater seams will come apart sooner or later, but TF is built like a tank
- A structured suit versus a soft one is a daily preference and they're both great

 

[othertravel]

I've learned over time that how something fits and looks to you is far more important than then technical details that are easy to get caught up in. Sometimes having some parts of a suit made by machine is no different than hand and hand done is no promise of durability, fit, or aesthetic. I have dozens of suits by most notable brands, but TF certainly is one of my top favourites.

I learned a while ago it's a misnomer how Tom Ford is made by Zegna. Tom Ford purchased the factory from Zegna Couture, a higher line of quality. But just because it's purchased, doesn't mean the factory is used in the same way or artisans are used in the same way as the original company. Even if a company uses someone as a supplier, it doesn't mean the factory will keep the same standards as their own line when producing. Sometimes they will, sometimes they won't. https://ezrapaul.com/blogs/news/tom-ford This person did a direction that shows a few notable improvements of this specific TF jacket over a Zegna.

I've learned a few lessons:
- My Loro cashmere's pill sooner or later and my Cucinelli do not
- Cucinelli has the best customer service I've ever had
- My Kiton sweater seams will come apart sooner or later, but TF is built like a tank
- A structured suit versus a soft one is a daily preference and they're both great

Slight correction: Tom Ford sold its licence to Zegna; TF didn't buy the factory.

When TF (the man) sold the company, Zegna bought the lease for the brand on a 20-year term. (This excludes the costmetics side, which was sold to Estee.

But yes, TF is a separate beast - very little in common with Zegna in terms of aesthetic and branding.

 

[Rixon]

Interesting, I stand updated on that now.

 

[jonathanS]

Tom ford is made in the normal Zegna factory. Just like Zegna also makes for dunhill or Caruso makes for Ralph Lauren purple label.

The only thing Tom ford has in common with Zegna couture is the price tag. The standards are made to a normal Zegna spec. Of course, styling is quite different. Harvey Spector’s suits were tom ford, not bespoke.

 

[othertravel]

Tom ford is made in the normal Zegna factory. Just like Zegna also makes for dunhill or Caruso makes for Ralph Lauren purple label.

The only thing Tom ford has in common with Zegna couture is the price tag. The standards are made to a normal Zegna spec. Of course, styling is quite different. Harvey Spector’s suits were tom ford, not bespoke.

Yeah, the economics of it is interesting. The added cost of a TF suit vs. a Zegna mainline suit is likely partially explained by the need to recoup the cost of the licence. That said, TF (the man) deserves credit for using a full canvass as a default. Other fashion brands don't.

You mentioned Dunhill - I think they're kind of a sleeper/underappreciated brand. I mean, look at the styling here:

 

[othertravel]

Interesting, I stand updated on that now.

@Rixon I noticed you shop at Harry's. Did you go to the 70th anniversary party?

 

[Rixon]

@Rixon I noticed you shop at Harry's. Did you go to the 70th anniversary party?

I do shop there once in a while. I've never actually gone to any of their events before.

Absolutely agree Dunhill is under appreciated.