Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[jonathanS]

The standeven trousers were actually my first proper bespoke order ever. I picked the cloth because it had better color variegation than the heavier weights in the bunch. I enjoy the trousers, but I think if I could order again I might choose the 310g instead despite the less variegated yarn.

While I have only felt the standeven explorer, I stand strongly behind that fox air is awesome. Same with drapers ascot for just trousers (too hot on hot summer days with a jacket, although arguably what isn’t?)

It's not a color I can easily wear though - INV027 - Black Venetian 480g. Incredible

Wear it with a polo shirt on the weekend or on days where a jacket would be too formal, but you want to look put together. There’ve been plenty of days where I wanted to just wear navy suit pants because I didn’t need to wear the jacket. I typically wear something else. You can also wear it with a jumper, turtleneck or even a leather / suede jacket.

Btw, I was like you: I didn’t think a pair of black trousers would be useful, until I saw Marco Cerrato with a pair of black trousers on and he told me they were his most useful pair of trousers. Now, I’m thinking about ordering a pair for myself (maybe navy).

While I think navy would’ve been better, the price was right! How does it breathe?

 

[sake99]

I am very interested in these, contacted Rogna in Italian and they told they would get back to me, but to no avail until now. Is your tailor in Italy?

No unfortunately, in Asia. The colors/shades look very Saman Amel-esque. He also mentioned that the 4ply has cold shades of olive/brown that are quite unique

I commissioned a pair in this pearl-grey 4ply which reminds me of a summer version of Stoffa's pearl moss trousers

 

[sensuki]

While I have only felt the standeven explorer, I stand strongly behind that fox air is awesome. Same with drapers ascot for just trousers (too hot on hot summer days with a jacket, although arguably what isn’t?)

Wear it with a polo shirt on the weekend or on days where a jacket would be too formal, but you want to look put together. There’ve been plenty of days where I wanted to just wear navy suit pants because I didn’t need to wear the jacket. I typically wear something else. You can also wear it with a jumper, turtleneck or even a leather / suede jacket.

Btw, I was like you: I didn’t think a pair of black trousers would be useful, until I saw Marco Cerrato with a pair of black trousers on and he told me they were his most useful pair of trousers. Now, I’m thinking about ordering a pair for myself (maybe navy).

While I think navy would’ve been better, the price was right! How does it breathe?

I haven't worn them out yet, as I received them at the beginning of Summer in Australia. We're starting to tip into the cooler weather now so I will get the chance shortly. All your points on what to wear them with are good - my issue is that the pants aren't very flexible in my wardrobe currently - I have some knitwear colors that will work - blacks and greys for sure and maybe but not sure about some of the other colors. All of my outerwear is navy, which I think might clash due to the depth & tone of the black, will see.

When I get the chance I'll post a photo of them because the fabric is worth highlighting for sure.

Edit: It's probably worth pointing out that I have worn two of my recently-ish acquired worsted heavier weight trousers - LP 460g smarter 'denim' and 500g Dugdale Inv Bed cord and neither feel 'warm'. I've only worn them in up to low 20s celcius and I haven't felt warm, nor cold. I've got Woollen flannels 340gm that are warmer than both. One difference might be that they would stop wind better due to being tighter woven, but indoors with heating or out in the sun, the flannel is warmer. I don't imagine the black will be much different.

 

[kid1002]

Piacenza has some nice stuff, did you get a suit made with the first class?

Just a pair of trousers for now.

 

[LJ1891]

When people describe Dugdale Tropicalair as suiting they are speaking about the “high twist” variation right? The mockleno variation would be appropriate for a separate jacket correct?

 

[Fad P]

No unfortunately, in Asia. The colors/shades look very Saman Amel-esque. He also mentioned that the 4ply has cold shades of olive/brown that are quite unique

I commissioned a pair in this pearl-grey 4ply which reminds me of a summer version of Stoffa's pearl moss trousers

I’m a Rogna fan. And yes – I believe Saman Amel uses them quite extensively.

Suit Supply has started to use their fabrics as well (which kind of takes away the allure a bit, to be honest).

Rogna used to have images of their fabrics on their website, but not anymore, unfortunately.

 

[sake99]

I’m a Rogna fan. And yes – I believe Saman Amel uses them quite extensively.

Suit Supply has started to use their fabrics as well (which kind of takes away the allure a bit, to be honest).

Rogna used to have images of their fabrics on their website, but not anymore, unfortunately.

Ah interesting that SA and Suit Supply may use the same fabrics, any comment on the general quality of the fabrics?

 

[Fad P]

Ah interesting that SA and Suit Supply may use the same fabrics, any comment on the general quality of the fabrics?

I know for a fact that they do. But it’s quite evident that SS has used brands like Saman and Stoffa as their blueprint.

And SS uses fabrics from Solbiati, Marling & Evans, Piacenza, etc., so I’m not gonna let them taint my appreciation for all those great mills haha.

I have a suit in Rogna wool/silk/linen that I love. I think they get the hues just right. I’ve only worn it a handful of times so far, so I can’t speak much about how their fabrics hold up over time - but it looks and feels great.

 

[CrimsonWave]

Just a pair of trousers for now.

Pray tell how well does the Piacenza First Class drape, and how resistant is it to wrinkling?

 

[Fad P]

Btw. Does anyone have a recommendation for a sharp, crisp cotton with some body that holds a crease well in off-white or bone?

I’m looking for fabric for a pair of summer trousers, something to wear with a sport coat, so not overly casual. Please avoid linen, peached cottons, or moleskins. Thanks!

 

[jonathanS]

I haven't worn them out yet, as I received them at the beginning of Summer in Australia. We're starting to tip into the cooler weather now so I will get the chance shortly. All your points on what to wear them with are good - my issue is that the pants aren't very flexible in my wardrobe currently - I have some knitwear colors that will work - blacks and greys for sure and maybe but not sure about some of the other colors. All of my outerwear is navy, which I think might clash due to the depth & tone of the black, will see.

When I get the chance I'll post a photo of them because the fabric is worth highlighting for sure.

Edit: It's probably worth pointing out that I have worn two of my recently-ish acquired worsted heavier weight trousers - LP 460g smarter 'denim' and 500g Dugdale Inv Bed cord and neither feel 'warm'. I've only worn them in up to low 20s celcius and I haven't felt warm, nor cold. I've got Woollen flannels 340gm that are warmer than both. One difference might be that they would stop wind better due to being tighter woven, but indoors with heating or out in the sun, the flannel is warmer. I don't imagine the black will be much different.

Oh. Another thought, you can also wear it with a dinner jacket / tuxedo shirt. I won’t go as far as saying they’re the most versatile, but I think they’re pretty versatile.

I’ve thought about getting a blackwatch dinner jacket with just piping around the edges. That I could dress up to a tuxedo or down with jeans, a denim shirt, cowboy boots. Just something I’m tossing around in my head. It’s not high on my priorities list.

 

[Rowqk777]

Any good cashmere or cashmere blend recommendations in a tan colour appropriate for a sport coat? - or any other cloth suggestion suitable for a tan sportcoat for a summer cocktail party. Many thanks!

 

[jonathanS]

Any good cashmere or cashmere blend recommendations in a tan colour appropriate for a sport coat? - or any other cloth suggestion suitable for a tan sportcoat for a summer cocktail party. Many thanks!

Summer and cashmere is rough.

 

[camez_]

Any good cashmere or cashmere blend recommendations in a tan colour appropriate for a sport coat? - or any other cloth suggestion suitable for a tan sportcoat for a summer cocktail party. Many thanks!

lp cashmere cloud
piacenza has some mega lightweight cloth at around 200g
and zegna as well.

if you want cashmere, you should go mega light and if it is available, open weave, however, I haven't seen open weave cashmere summer jacketing for a while now

 

[Concordia]

The 9oz Fresco is dependable. Also, there is a similar 3-ply Finmeresco that is great.