Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Despos]

Hoping for some thoughts/suggestions here . . . going to get measured for my first bespoke sports jacket in a few weeks -- Steed coming to my city. I'm leaning towards something double-breasted in a wool tweed, but want to keep it on the right side of the "too costume-y" line. (Of course that line differs for everyone.)

There are more fabrics out there than I can possibly digest, and if I just limit myself to the Fox book I'm sure I'll find something I like. But thinking more about weight, etc. -- 'sturdy, but not TOO sturdy' is what I keep thinking. Something that'll move with me, but have enough structure to work for a relatively structured jacket like this.

Any ideas as to weight or other things I should consider?

(As for color . . . maybe a gray with something interesting going on in it . . . flecks for example.)

Tweeds are usually earth tones, not grey. Grey is not a versatile color for a sport coat. Sure they exist but rare to see a tweed DB jacket.
Let Steed guide you and give you ideas.

 

[DorianGreen]

Tweeds are usually earth tones, not grey. Grey is not a versatile color for a sport coat. Sure they exist but rare to see a tweed DB jacket.
Let Steed guide you and give you ideas.

Agreed, I would also opt for a single breasted instead.

 

[Bartolo]

Tweeds are usually earth tones, not grey. Grey is not a versatile color for a sport coat. Sure they exist but rare to see a tweed DB jacket.
Let Steed guide you and give you ideas.

TY for these comments. Steed will guide as will my wife who has a very good "eye."

It will be a fun process and hopefully not a one-and-done!

 

[Bartolo]

Agreed, I would also opt for a single breasted instead.

Less risk of being "costume-y"?

 

[ZRH1]

How much p/m?

I would also be interested. I wrote to them in Italian, but no reply yet.

 

[DorianGreen]

Less risk of being "costume-y"?

It's the traditional style for tweed. I would also prefer earthy tones, but if grey is your choice, a good herringbone donegal would do.

 

[ZRH1]

I'm digging out this old post since I'm in the exact same dilemma choosing between 61307 and 61309. What did you choose in the end, and were you happy with the result? Also tempted a bit by Spence Bryson who seems to have similar shades of navy, but from the clippings my tailor has sent I'm not fully convinced that I do not spot a purplish hue 😬

I react allergic to purple hues in blues, so relate to you. My WB dark navy certainly does not have any such thing. I think I have the 09 final.

 

[hitsuji]

Hoping for some thoughts/suggestions here . . . going to get measured for my first bespoke sports jacket in a few weeks -- Steed coming to my city. I'm leaning towards something double-breasted in a wool tweed, but want to keep it on the right side of the "too costume-y" line. (Of course that line differs for everyone.)

There are more fabrics out there than I can possibly digest, and if I just limit myself to the Fox book I'm sure I'll find something I like. But thinking more about weight, etc. -- 'sturdy, but not TOO sturdy' is what I keep thinking. Something that'll move with me, but have enough structure to work for a relatively structured jacket like this.

Any ideas as to weight or other things I should consider?

(As for color . . . maybe a gray with something interesting going on in it . . . flecks for example.)

If it is your first bespoke jacket - I would lead towards getting a SB first - first to guage fit and it overall is a “safer” less costume looking jacket.

I presume you’re interested in donegal tweed designs, which vary from weave to weight. I would stray away from a gray SC as a first option, Brown/Olive/Blue tweeds are a great pick that you will not regret for years to come, classic and wont fall out of style.

Steed will guide you well. Part of having a tailor is trusting their guidance and generally if they steer you away from something, I would take their advice! I wouldn’t tell a plumber how he should handle my piping!

I’ve been told by my tailor and others to generally just point out stuff that you hate (or have reservations about) and they can explain why its been designed as so or you can work together on changing it.

But at the end of the day - this is your jacket and if you are keen on getting a tweed gray DB sports coat, you should go for it. You’ll be in good hands with Steed.

What sort of temperatures do you have in your city, do you want a pattern and when do you plan on wearing it?I’m sure the folks here will be happy to lend suggestions

 

[Concordia]

For tweed, you have the questions of weight and texture. Some (Lovat Mill, P&H Hartwist, etc) tend to be flatter and firmer. Others, like Harris, many handmade Shetlands, etc, are quite fuzzy. If you do go for DB-- an unconventional choice for tweed, but can work-- try for the former. Some of those books have greys, as well. I have a SB sport jacket from the P&H Thornproof set that is grey with a blue windowpane. Works well in urban settings.

 

[classicalthunde]

Hoping for some thoughts/suggestions here . . . going to get measured for my first bespoke sports jacket in a few weeks -- Steed coming to my city. I'm leaning towards something double-breasted in a wool tweed, but want to keep it on the right side of the "too costume-y" line. (Of course that line differs for everyone.)

There are more fabrics out there than I can possibly digest, and if I just limit myself to the Fox book I'm sure I'll find something I like. But thinking more about weight, etc. -- 'sturdy, but not TOO sturdy' is what I keep thinking. Something that'll move with me, but have enough structure to work for a relatively structured jacket like this.

Any ideas as to weight or other things I should consider?

(As for color . . . maybe a gray with something interesting going on in it . . . flecks for example.)

I'm a big fan of Harris Tweeds - they're warm and fuzzy and I don't have to worry about being delicate with them up too much. A SB notch grey herringbone Harris Tweed is a classic Ivy Style staple

Also a fan of the W. Bill Donegal tweed books - they're a bit lighter and softer/more flexible but have great pops of color that you can see up close that are really interested and unique.

I don't have any experience with Fox tweeds, but from my understanding they're a bit 'softer' than Harris Tweeds. They also are known for having great patterns and colors, so that should be a plus in the column

Now that I think of it...I don't think I've seen too many DB tweeds in pics or in the wild...

 

[DorianGreen]

Has anyone seen any completed makeups of this Fox tweed? Or does anyone have it that can comment on it? Fabric code is TD49.

TD49 : Chestnut, Taupe, Tangerine & Claret Check Tweed

This jacketing cloth is woven in the town of Wellington, Somerset by Fox Brothers, who have been weaving cloth for over 200 years. The range of patterns and designs are directly inspired by Fox Brothers’ extensive archives dating to the mid-1900s and echo the colours of Somerset’s surrounding...

foxflannel.com

I have a sport coat, love the cloth, bold and distiguished at the same time.

 

[bjhofkin]

I just totally disagree with the idea that a gray tweed sport coat isn't versatile – a gray herringbone or donegal jacket should be great with denim or basically any darker trousers that aren't gray.

 

[classicalthunde]

I just totally disagree with the idea that a gray tweed sport coat isn't versatile – a gray herringbone or donegal jacket should be great with denim or basically any darker trousers that aren't gray.

Agreed, my grey herringbone works with dark grey trousers, navy or tan cords, khakis, jeans, tan whipcord trousers, etc.

 

[jonathanS]

Did you mean a gray flannel suit or gray tweed?

Go with single breasted gray flannel.

Single breasted jackets are easier to fit than double breasted. When making your first order, you want to give the tailor the highest chance of success.
Things that make it easier:
Solid suit
Single breasted
Heavier weight fabric (tweed would work but flannel is better with a suit.

If anyone has an issue (steed may give you a kiss, so namely your wife) take it up with the man in the gray flannel suit.

 

[TheLawBeard]

I have a sport coat, love the cloth, bold and distiguished at the same time.

Glad to hear it!
Any pictures of it by chance? Either worn, on a hanger, pretty much anything.