Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[tmsgks]

Which sartoria? Interesting cloth indeed.

"Sartoria Lauro".
Couldn't find any piece of information on this.

I suppose it was one of the hundreds of tailor shops that existed here in italy in the 60s and 70s, and had to shut down 20 or so years ago.

 

[aristoi bcn]

"Sartoria Lauro".
Couldn't find any piece of information on this.

I suppose it was one of the hundreds of tailor shops that existed here in italy in the 60s and 70s, and had to shut down 20 or so years ago. View attachment 2087313

Thank you. You just got a piece if history.

 

[tmsgks]

Thank you. You just got a piece if history.

Yes, you are right.

This is indeed a unique piece that I will proudly keep in my wardrobe.

 

[corpseposeur]

Any recommendations on corduroy bunches made of 100% cotton?

Holland and Sherry used to have a nice collection of very lush cords at 22oz in very rich colors, but they seem to have discontinued most those.

Caccioppoli has a couple of decent swatches.

The Brisbane Moss cords I've tried have tended to be on the more robust country style and feel sturdy but less luxurious but maybe they have some others?

 

[JHWilliams]

I got to see Harrison’s Universal in the flesh, and compare it to Dugdale’s English Classics (14 oz.) The Dugdale is more refined, but it’s not like the Universal is a potato sack. And while there probably isn’t much functional difference between the 14 oz. Dugdale and the 16 oz. Universal, there is an 18 oz. Universal navy twill that I’m really curious to see how it looks made up.

Universal is an eclectic bunch. Some are less refined than others. This is the 20 ounce navy made up along with the 18/19 ounce charcoal which is much more soft to the touch. The navy is a bit too rough in the handle for me, but I still enjoy wearing the suit.

Dugdale English & Town Classics has a comparable handle to the universal bunch.

 

[oldworldelegance]

Universal is an eclectic bunch. Some are less refined than others. This is the 20 ounce navy made up along with the 18/19 ounce charcoal which is much more soft to the touch. The navy is a bit too rough in the handle for me, but I still enjoy wearing the suit.

Dugdale English & Town Classics has a comparable handle to the universal bunch.

Interesting. The charcoal looks almost like a worsted flannel.

 

[oldworldelegance]

Any recommendations on corduroy bunches made of 100% cotton?

Holland and Sherry used to have a nice collection of very lush cords at 22oz in very rich colors, but they seem to have discontinued most those.

Caccioppoli has a couple of decent swatches.

The Brisbane Moss cords I've tried have tended to be on the more robust country style and feel sturdy but less luxurious but maybe they have some others?

Brisbane Moss has many different bunches. I find some of them perfectly soft. I do have a some trousers in their heaviest cord and it’s nice and soft, if that’s what you want.

Other options are:
- Bateman & Ogden
- Scabal (both pure cotton and cashmere cotton)
- Minnis

 

[JHWilliams]

Interesting. The charcoal looks almost like a worsted flannel.

Not a worsted flannel. But definitely a heavily milled worsted.

 

[oldworldelegance]

Not a worsted flannel. But definitely a heavily milled worsted.

Looks nice, but I’m partial to some texture on all fabrics.

One wonders what’s the difference? What makes a worsted flannel a flannel? The amount of milling?

 

[corpseposeur]

Universal is an eclectic bunch. Some are less refined than others. This is the 20 ounce navy made up along with the 18/19 ounce charcoal which is much more soft to the touch. The navy is a bit too rough in the handle for me, but I still enjoy wearing the suit.

Dugdale English & Town Classics has a comparable handle to the universal bunch.

I have trousers in Universal and a suit in the Dugdale's English & Town classics.

The Universal is sturdy stuff at around 18oz and has a very matte flannel like finish which I really like.

I would agree the Dugdale's is more "refined" and a bit more versatile at 14oz. but also with a lot of body. I like them both for their characteristics.

 

[JHWilliams]

I have trousers in Universal and a suit in the Dugdale's English & Town classics.

The Universal is sturdy stuff at around 18oz and has a very matte flannel like finish which I really like.

I would agree the Dugdale's is more "refined" and a bit more versatile at 14oz. but also with a lot of body. I like them both for their characteristics.

There are also quite a few in the 15/16 ounce range in the Universal Bunch. I find the finishing to be very comparable to the town & classics bunch

 

[Crispyj]

Any recommendations on corduroy bunches made of 100% cotton?

Holland and Sherry used to have a nice collection of very lush cords at 22oz in very rich colors, but they seem to have discontinued most those.

Caccioppoli has a couple of decent swatches.

The Brisbane Moss cords I've tried have tended to be on the more robust country style and feel sturdy but less luxurious but maybe they have some others?

Dugdale West Riding

 

[Jamesbond1]

Dugdale

 

[DorianGreen]

Dugdale

Already said, beautiful colour.

 

[habstyle]

I’m looking to get a lighter navy color sport coat, but was drawn to some fabrics that might be more oriented for a suit (though I think they can still work with some additional detailing for an odd jacket). Something like this Ascot 4-ply wool https://drapersitaly.it/by-en/collection/18041/

Would this work for a sport coat or look to “suity” in your view?