Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[classicalthunde]

I’m looking to get a lighter navy color sport coat, but was drawn to some fabrics that might be more oriented for a suit (though I think they can still work with some additional detailing for an odd jacket). Something like this Ascot 4-ply wool https://drapersitaly.it/by-en/collection/18041/

Would this work for a sport coat or look to “suity” in your view?

IMO the 4-ply is too 'suity', however I think the 6-ply can work as a stand alone jacket.

 

[twuthetiger]

IMO the 4-ply is too 'suity', however I think the 6-ply can work as a stand alone jacket.

I just saw the swatches and I second that. To me a sports coat needs a bit more texture for visual interest.

 

[JohnMRobie]

I’m looking to get a lighter navy color sport coat, but was drawn to some fabrics that might be more oriented for a suit (though I think they can still work with some additional detailing for an odd jacket). Something like this Ascot 4-ply wool https://drapersitaly.it/by-en/collection/18041/

Would this work for a sport coat or look to “suity” in your view?

IMO the 4-ply is too 'suity', however I think the 6-ply can work as a stand alone jacket.

+1. I love 4 ply but it’s definitely suity. If you’re after a glencheck or pow I think there might be one with more texture in one of the Fresco bunches. Maybe Australis Jackets from LP if you’re after a pure wool. The Bamboo and Carlo Barbera bunches from HFW might have some options as well.

 

[Rowqk777]

Hi all, I just wanted to ask for opinions on cloth recommendations - recently had a single breasted suit made in Ascot 4 ply navy - wears and drapes beautifully. Naturally wanted to use the Ascot 4 ply in a dark grey for a DB suit 6 x 2, but tailor advised against it as the “4 ply wouldnt carry the DB suit well” - his suggestions were dugdale new fine worsted dark grey, dugdale tropical air, harrisons frontier and standeven dark grey.

I really like how the ascot 4 ply feels and when I asked him for the dark grey version he really avoided it - and provided me with only these suggestions? Are they viable options granted it will be a full canvas and half lined suit - or perhaps he is trying to push me into the fabrics with greatest profit margin?

Please let me know your suggestions!
Many thanks

 

[classicalthunde]

Hi all, I just wanted to ask for opinions on cloth recommendations - recently had a single breasted suit made in Ascot 4 ply navy - wears and drapes beautifully. Naturally wanted to use the Ascot 4 ply in a dark grey for a DB suit 6 x 2, but tailor advised against it as the “4 ply wouldnt carry the DB suit well” - his suggestions were dugdale new fine worsted dark grey, dugdale tropical air, harrisons frontier and standeven dark grey.

I really like how the ascot 4 ply feels and when I asked him for the dark grey version he really avoided it - and provided me with only these suggestions? Are they viable options granted it will be a full canvas and half lined suit - or perhaps he is trying to push me into the fabrics with greatest profit margin?

Please let me know your suggestions!
Many thanks

To be honest, I don’t really understand the logic here with maybe the fact being that fresco-style fabrics are slightly less formal. (But then, tropicalair I think is the same thing…)

Ask him how he feels about Finmeresco, fairly sure it’s almost identical to 4-ply

 

[jonathanS]

perhaps he is trying to push me into the fabrics with greatest profit margin

Ask him about fox air.

I’m going to be the one here who says it. I’m not sure I like drapers ascot for anything but trousers or as a fall / spring suit. Especially the 4 ply. I just find it really heavy and hot.

For a jacket, I think a mock Leno or hopsack is better. For a suit, I’d try the 2ply, fox air or, and I’m not sure I should be plugging it because I like the fabric & wonder if I should keep it for myself, I have a Taylor & lodge mohair wool blend I just listed on buy & sell

 

[PSNY]

Anyone know of any Mills offering similar fabrics to the one Simon got from Anglo Italian for Ciardi to make him a jacket? I've seen similar from VBC, but nothing quite like it. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Marshak]

Fabric geeks, I call on your skills... Could you identify the reference of this glencheck (Corcos jacket)? It's from the Pecora Nera LP bunch.

 

[DorianGreen]

Lovely cloths above.

 

[Marshak]

Fabric geeks, I call on your skills... Could you identify the reference of this glencheck (Corcos jacket)? It's from the Pecora Nera LP bunch.

Corcos gave me the answer: linen-silk vintage, not on the market 😭

 

[tim_horton]

Taylor & lodge mohair wool blend

I would choose this or any similar mohair/wool blend over Drapers 4-ply any day of the week.

 

[P-K-L]

Corcos gave me the answer: linen-silk vintage, not on the market 😭

extinguished forever
one cut left on giapon

 

[classicalthunde]

Anyone know of any Mills offering similar fabrics to the one Simon got from Anglo Italian for Ciardi to make him a jacket? I've seen similar from VBC, but nothing quite like it. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

I think Anglo-Italian sells their cloth directly...

Worsted Alsport II #50076 is pretty similar but with a blue overcheck in there as well...

 

[JohnMRobie]

Anyone know of any Mills offering similar fabrics to the one Simon got from Anglo Italian for Ciardi to make him a jacket? I've seen similar from VBC, but nothing quite like it. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Different quality since that one was a wool/cotton/poly I think but Lovat and Marling Evans both have similar in pure wool.

 

[jonathanS]

I would choose this or any similar mohair/wool blend over Drapers 4-ply any day of the week.

Agreed, I think drapers 4 ply is a great fabric, but it’s not a summer fabric. It’s a Florida winter fabric, or throw on a coat.

I think fox air performs a little bit better but I think the mohair blends is a better bet during the summer. It *could* work in the summer in a pinch but it’s definitely on the warm side.

For example, I’m wearing drapers ascot today but, *checks month*, it’s December.