Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[bernoulli]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a green colour (ideally a darker shade of green) cloth to be used for a suit suitable for warmer climates? Thanks

On sale even: https://www.tessin.it/en/cool-wool-fabric-super-120-039-s-and-cashmere-dark-olive-green-melange.html

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a green colour (ideally a darker shade of green) cloth to be used for a suit suitable for warmer climates? Thanks

People have mixed feelings about Crispaire but I like their shade of forest green for suiting.

Dark Green Holland & Sherry Crispaire Fabric Suit

One of the color combinations that always work well is certainly dark green and burgundy. While in certain shades it can look a little bit Christmas like, it's actually a pretty versatile set of colors that goes fairly well around the year. The key, a…

thenordicfit.com

 

[jonathanS]

On sale even: https://www.tessin.it/en/cool-wool-fabric-super-120-039-s-and-cashmere-dark-olive-green-melange.html

He said warm climate. Not cool. If you’re for colder weather, standeven heritage twist has some awesome olive worsteds. I liked a herringbone 14 oz and a twill 18oz

People have mixed feelings about Crispaire but I like their shade of forest green for suiting.

Dark Green Holland & Sherry Crispaire Fabric Suit

One of the color combinations that always work well is certainly dark green and burgundy. While in certain shades it can look a little bit Christmas like, it's actually a pretty versatile set of colors that goes fairly well around the year. The key, a…

thenordicfit.com

Crispaire is one of the worse fabrics I’ve ever used. Hate it with a passion, so glad I only did a pair of trousers in it.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a green colour (ideally a darker shade of green) cloth to be used for a suit suitable for warmer climates? Thanks

Check fox air, they have some awesome olive colored fabrics.

 

[bernoulli]

He said warm climate. Not cool. If you’re for colder weather, standeven heritage twist has some awesome olive worsteds. I liked a herringbone 14 oz and a twill 18oz



Crispaire is one of the worse fabrics I’ve ever used. Hate it with a passion, so glad I only did a pair of trousers in it.



Check fox air, they have some awesome olive colored fabrics.

Err....cool wool is a lightwight fabric made especially for summertime. My (admittedly weird) Norfolk suit is made from a cool wool fabric and wears extremely light and airy (I couldn't wear it in Scandinavia's summer evenings as it is half-lined).

 

[Free Style]

Thanks for the recommendations @Concordia @The Chai @bernoulli @jonathanS @TheSuitBurnsBetter

@Concordia to be honest I am not entirely sure yet, I am open to both at this stage, although seems easier to find an olive shade cloth (my impression is there are more options in that shade)

@The Chai nice one, will try to go to the local dealer to see it in person. Looking at the Spencer Bryson website they seem to have quite a few options across different ranges

 

[The Chai]

Thanks for the recommendations @Concordia @The Chai @bernoulli @jonathanS @TheSuitBurnsBetter

@Concordia to be honest I am not entirely sure yet, I am open to both at this stage, although seems easier to find an olive shade cloth (my impression is there are more options in that shade)

@The Chai nice one, will try to go to the local dealer to see it in person. Looking at the Spencer Bryson website they seem to have quite a few options across different ranges

You can email them to request samples, and order a length too.

 

[kid1002]

Crispaire is one of the worse fabrics I’ve ever used. Hate it with a passion, so glad I only did a pair of trousers in it.

Would you care to elaborate?

 

[JHWilliams]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a green colour (ideally a darker shade of green) cloth to be used for a suit suitable for warmer climates? Thanks

This is Dugdale Needle Ready sunburst cloth (not dark hunter green, but still a lovely shade). 9.5 ounces with 2 % cashmere. I had this one made buggy lined

 

[reidd]

Would you care to elaborate?

I have two pairs of Crispaire trousers and they have been fantastic for me. Great breathability and handfeel and hold their shape beautifully despite my wearing them very hard. I find it very curious people on here trash this cloth. I vastly prefer them to HFW Fresco and its about a tie with Drapers 4 ply.

 

[mactire]

Anyone know where to source Melton wool? Specifically, actually heavy-weight fabric -- around the 35 oz./yd. mark. I've been trying to find (non-tweed) fabrics for a heavy overcoat (this should be a redundant description, but this seems to have been lost on most in the present day...), but nothing's come up yet. About the heaviest fabric that I've been able to find so far is 850gsm (25oz.; Harrisons Cashmere Overcoating -- and it being cashmere, I shudder to think what it must cost per meter). I've looked around the forums a bit, and while I can find references to coats in roughly that weight range, no one seems to know what mills are providing the coatings for those.

There's also HE Box https://www.heboxltd.co.uk and Marling and Evans.

 

[MRex]

There's also HE Box https://www.heboxltd.co.uk and Marling and Evans.

Thank you, but as I read it, HE Box's Melton wool is 590gsm, which is winter suit weight (or topcoat, at best) as far as I'm concerned. I'm specifically looking for coating, which I expect to be over 900gsm. They do list a cavalry twill at 990gsm under their Country Range (along with a similar weight Keeper's tweed, but that's tweed); however, they do not have any information on it beyond that. Marling & Evans' heaviest fabric is still sub-800gsm.

 

[jonathanS]

Would you care to elaborate?

Don’t like them. Doesn’t drape well, & hold its crease well. Nice hand though. It tries to be a fresco and a smooth cloth at the same time, which it is neither.

 

[Concordia]

Might depend on the tailor's approach as to whether it works. I have a Crispaire suit from a more-structured SR shop, and it works very well. Of course, I don't wear it every day or every week, even.

 

[Marshak]

I have two pairs of Crispaire trousers and they have been fantastic for me. Great breathability and handfeel and hold their shape beautifully despite my wearing them very hard. I find it very curious people on here trash this cloth. I vastly prefer them to HFW Fresco and its about a tie with Drapers 4 ply.

I've owned a pair of Crispaire trousers. Of course it's not a bad fabric, quite soft with a decent drape, but it's not comparable with the Draper's 4-ply. Crispaire is more tightly weaved and less breatheable and, above all, a lot more fragile. The pair has ripped off few years after its making.

For those who can't bear the scratchiness of a true Fresco, the 4-ply should be the first choice for a high twist. For warm weather nothing can't surpass a heavy linen. No matter the weight, the dryness of the cloth will save you from overheating.

 

[P-K-L]

Received two suits made from @kolecho 's rangoon re-run yesterday, a grey DB and a navy SB.
Still a fantastic fabric, more re-runs would be highly appreciated!