Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[JibranK]

The "every outfit in the series was completely new" is a Netflix production issue. I caught an article on it a while back and apparently the studio mandates "new" clothing for every series/movie. Industry practice for studios was to have either an archive or just "manufacture wear" on garments. Netflix just does new garments every time and they don't do anything to make them look worn or lived in.

I've even seen some people complain about it because it ruins the immersion for them watching a show/movie where everything looks brand new.

It can't be a blanket policy, or at least big names can override it, because there are some beautiful vintage items in The Irishman/I Heard You Paint Houses.

 

[tim_horton]

It can't be a blanket policy, or at least big names can override it, because there are some beautiful vintage items in The Irishman/I Heard You Paint Houses.

Maybe Scorsese is such an established director that he can ignore this rule. I can’t imagine a Netflix exec telling him what clothing to use in a movie.

 

[TweedyProf]

Thanks for thoughts about trousers. Anyone had anything made from Harrison's Sea Shell? Curious about the terylene. I quite liked this green for an odd summer jacket but not sure about the terylene.

 

[lordsuperb]

Thanks for thoughts about trousers. Anyone had anything made from Harrison's Sea Shell? Curious about the terylene. I quite liked this green for an odd summer jacket but not sure about the terylene.

View attachment 2239329

Edwin has a suit in this cloth.

 

[TweedyProf]

Edwin has a suit in this cloth.

Well, good to put one's trust in Edwin. That's Matthew displaying the book in the pic. I am slightly suspicious of synthetics, but it probably keeps out the wrinkles mixed with linen.

 

[tiltgunnar]

Looking for suggestions for a navy suit. Main usage is business in FW/Spring, however, I don't like the shine that comes with twill fabrics, and I would like to be able to use it with e.g., a merino polo in more casual settings.

I have had Ascot 4-ply in mind but I understand thats more suited for summer. Moreover, my tailor recommended the Standeven British Classic 4003 Royal Blue Plain ( https://www.standevenfabrics.co.uk/product/4003-royal-blue-plain/ ). Anyone got experience with this? I'm afraid that the royal blue is too light.

Grateful for other suggestions!

Best,

 

[camez_]

Looking for suggestions for a navy suit. Main usage is business in FW/Spring, however, I don't like the shine that comes with twill fabrics, and I would like to be able to use it with e.g., a merino polo in more casual settings.

I have had Ascot 4-ply in mind but I understand thats more suited for summer. Moreover, my tailor recommended the Standeven British Classic 4003 Royal Blue Plain ( https://www.standevenfabrics.co.uk/product/4003-royal-blue-plain/ ). Anyone got experience with this? I'm afraid that the royal blue is too light.

Grateful for other suggestions!

Best,

go for the 4ply, it's a good fall/spring cloth

 

[L.deJong]

It can't be a blanket policy, or at least big names can override it, because there are some beautiful vintage items in The Irishman/I Heard You Paint Houses.

But it would explain a lot of things for other films/series, and I don't understand why Netflix would mandate such a thing, on the other hand if bespoke tailors make a lot of the clothing it would be no problem of course. But I expect that 'the gentleman' didn't go that route because a lot of suits fit very badly.
Ripley the series also has some great clothing and has way better tailoring, with some pieces feeling very vintage. But I read somewhere that it would have been aired by Showtime instead of Netflix, so maybe netflix wasn't involved in the production.
Enfin back to the cloth itself!

 

[tuna roll]

These look all like lovely cloths.

View attachment 2238807

I like all of these. Soft spot for the bottom one, beautiful faded colors.

 

[tuna roll]

@hitsuji, @CLH03, @circumspice, @mktitsworth, @brax, @tim_horton

Appreciate the advice on the tweed jacket. I agree a dark brown or green tweed would be more versatile (probably dark brown for my first one).

 

[DorianGreen]

Thanks for thoughts about trousers. Anyone had anything made from Harrison's Sea Shell? Curious about the terylene. I quite liked this green for an odd summer jacket but not sure about the terylene.

View attachment 2239329

It looks good, but I will always avoid cloths with synthetic fibres. If you want linen, you also have to embrace the wrinkled look.

 

[tim_horton]

Solbiati milled linen (or peached linen?) doesn’t wrinkle nearly as much as regular linen. I really like it. I’m sure it comes in some green shades.

 

[Texasmade]

Looking for suggestions for a navy suit. Main usage is business in FW/Spring, however, I don't like the shine that comes with twill fabrics, and I would like to be able to use it with e.g., a merino polo in more casual settings.

I have had Ascot 4-ply in mind but I understand thats more suited for summer. Moreover, my tailor recommended the Standeven British Classic 4003 Royal Blue Plain ( https://www.standevenfabrics.co.uk/product/4003-royal-blue-plain/ ). Anyone got experience with this? I'm afraid that the royal blue is too light.

Grateful for other suggestions!

Best,

Don’t get royal blue. I have a royal blue from I think Harrison’s (can’t remember exactly) and it’s really bright. When I chose it, I was at a trunk show in a hotel room and it didn’t look that bright. I did all the fittings in a hotel room so it was hard to tell how bright it really was.

When I got the final suit under natural light, it was much brighter than I thought.

 

[classicalthunde]

Don’t get royal blue. I have a royal blue from I think Harrison’s (can’t remember exactly) and it’s really bright. When I chose it, I was at a trunk show in a hotel room and it didn’t look that bright. I did all the fittings in a hotel room so it was hard to tell how bright it really was.

When I got the final suit under natural light, it was much brighter than I thought.

Same thing occurred to me with my first nice suit order where i picked the brighter navy from Drapers 5-star book since it was in cloudy day and in a hotel room. Always kicked myself for that rookie mistake...

 

[kylepw]

Same thing occurred to me with my first nice suit order where i picked the brighter navy from Drapers 5-star book since it was in cloudy day and in a hotel room. Always kicked myself for that rookie mistake...

A bespoke/MTM rite of passage, for sure.