Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[poorsod]

The Agnelli tweed looks like the typical drapey Steed with wasp waist to me. It looks to be a either a 3 roll 2.5 or a 3 roll 2 which hasn't settled yet.

Original pics here.

https://mobile.twitter.com/SteedTailors/status/677192026820079616

 

[Coxsackie]

Yes, I thought it might be Gaz (who is actually a personal friend, although I haven't seen him for a couple of years).

Living in Australia, I would not get much use out of a suit made from this tweed except in midwinter. But WTF, it's so beautiful, I had to kop.

Will have it made as a simple two-piece, single breasted. Anything else would be too hot.

Could I have it buggy-lined to increase its seasonal utility, or is that just a really dumb idea?

 

[Concordia]



Could I have it buggy-lined to increase its seasonal utility, or is that just a really dumb idea?

Probably no benefit. A satin (or whatever) lining won't add much insulation and will keep down the friction with your shirt.

 

[lordsuperb]



It's not the shoulders, but rather the lapels' shape and angle. As well as not having the ticket pocket, for a cleaner look.

Agreed, when are ticket pockets appropriate?

Living in Australia, I would not get much use out of a suit made from this tweed except in midwinter. But WTF, it's so beautiful, I had to kop.

Will have it made as a simple two-piece, single breasted. Anything else would be too hot.

I would get no personal enjoyment if I didn't get a chance to wear the suit often. I don't have as many suits as some of you, but I find myself taking a pause from new purchases just to enjoy the outfits I currently own.

 

[sprout2]

The angle of the lapels really bugs my eye out. It's like 0.5 degrees away from becoming fully convex and turning into a blouse frill/flower petal, but it's hovering on that line between concavity and convexity, so it just freaks my eyeball out.

 

[Concordia]



Agreed, when are ticket pockets appropriate?

Tastes vary. For me, they are best when (a) they are useful -- a jacket that will be used for travel, for example, and/or (b) if a bit of rumpling and clutter add to the style rather than subtract.

There's a third situation-- when the edges of crisper cloth create a rhythm. Some of the slim-cut hacking jackets, for example, where the lapel edges and the slanted pockets all seem to converse and move your eye around. Not my thing, but it does work.

Anyway, for this Agnelli tweed, I think that less is more.

I've got a practical variation on a 3-button model coming in one of the LL Donegals; for that I specified a ticket pocket. It is a semi-plain in a heavy, soft fabric that has no special desire to communicate energy or ambition, but which might be asked to handle car keys, ear buds, or odd bits of foreign currency. We'll see if I come to regret it.

 

[Andy57]

Someone on LL is even doing a DB suit.

That would be me.

The cloth is indeed the so-called Agnelli Tweed. It's not especially heavy and really does not seem at all tweed-like. The photo that started this discussion was originally tweeted by Steed and, in my opinion, looks pretty darn good. But then I'm a happy customer of theirs, so I guess I have a bias.

I like ticket pockets. My DB will have a ticket pocket. All my bespoke jackets have them, except a blazer with patch pockets currently being finished up by Steed. The Agnelli Tweed is not being made up by Steed, though. I have enough things currently in the pipeline with Steed that I decided to spread things around a bit.

 

[Coxsackie]

it's hovering on that line between concavity and convexity

Just for your lexical edification, such lines are known as "straight".

 

[sprout2]

Just for your lexical edification, such lines are known as "straight".

 

[Coxsackie]

Sorry. Couldn't resist.

 

[Nick de Sylva]

All of those weights mentioned above are for frigid areas like the northeast and anywhere near the Canadian border. But, if you live in a temperate climate like Texas, and don't want to buy the year round look, which I personally think is cheap looking, then a 7.5oz-8.5oz flannel is the best bet and has the winter look.

 

[EliodA]



The Agnelli tweed looks like the typical drapey Steed with wasp waist to me. It looks to be a either a 3 roll 2.5 or a 3 roll 2 which hasn't settled yet.

Original pass here.

https://mobile.twitter.com/SteedTailors/status/677192026820079616

Still don't like the shoulders. Too extended, ugly dimples/divots.

 

[Coxsackie]

Still don't like the shoulders. Too extended, ugly dimples/divots.

That look is not for me. But in the Twitter shots, it kinda works on its own terms.

After a dozen or so wears, those shoulders will hopefully relax a bit.

Or not. Maybe that was simply the wrong shoulder expression for that fabric.

If yes, then: did Steed **** up? Or did the client **** up by choosing Steed for a CMT commission with this fabric?

Ladies and Gentlemen, this is the Unfunded Liabilities (Cloth) thread. Opinions sought. Please note that I have a horse in this race.

 

[zr3rs]

After a dozen or so wears, those shoulders will hopefully relax a bit.

Or not. Maybe that was simply the wrong shoulder expression for that fabric.

If yes, then: did Steed **** up? Or did the client **** up by choosing Steed for a CMT commission with this fabric?

It looks like there is considerable padding in the shoulder, so maybe it will relax, but I have a hard time to believe that it will relax enough for the divots to disappear. Maybe the padding was intended to correct a dropped shoulder (cannot really assess the other shoulder).

For me, this is a clear case of an upper sleeve too narrow horizontally. As I strongly dislike shoulder divots, I have gone to Neapolitan sleeve heads mostly, which tend to be larger. Maybe it was MTM and the sleeve head was already cut too short. I had a similar issue in my recent Regent Tailor MTM, but there it could be fully and easily corrected in the second fitting.

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

As the (very happy) owner of the LL Agnelli Steed suit discussed over the last page I thought I'd chime in with a couple of clarifications

1) This is my tenth or so bespoke jacket from Steed and I think they have pretty much got the fit perfectly dialled. This is different to many of my other suits in that we tried to create more of a Friday casual suit - hence the 3-roll-2 with broader lapels and the ticket pocket. It is exactly what I wanted though it will clearly not be to everyone's liking

2) The photo posted doesn't do the shoulders any favours, I think this is largely due to my pose and it should also be noted that it has settled significantly since. The second photo from the Twitter feed is probably more representative (but again this is before the shoulders settled). There is NO padding in the shoulders

3. The cloth is fairly heavy but by no means impractical. It is perfect for a Northern European Autumn and winter.

R-O-T