Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[add911_11]



As the (very happy) owner of the LL Agnelli Steed suit discussed over the last page I thought I'd chime in with a couple of clarifications

1) This is my tenth or so bespoke jacket from Steed and I think they have pretty much got the fit perfectly dialled. This is different to many of my other suits in that we tried to create more of a Friday casual suit - hence the 3-roll-2 with broader lapels and the ticket pocket. It is exactly what I wanted though it will clearly not be to everyone's liking

2) The photo posted doesn't do the shoulders any favours, I think this is largely due to my pose and it should also be noted that it has settled significantly since. The second photo from the Twitter feed is probably more representative (but again this is before the shoulders settled). There is NO padding in the shoulders

3. The cloth is fairly heavy but by no means impractical. It is perfect for a Northern European Autumn and winter.

R-O-T

I also think the shoulder is executed finely.

Few members are too into Italian soft shoulder and the same ruler could not be used when accessing the more defined and firm shoulder cut.

I find the Napolian soft shoulder will rarely make the shoulder straighter so they seldom create a defined shoulder/sleevehead area.

I do not see any dimple on the sleeve head, the fabric is smoothly flowing with the sleeve rather than being too tight.

 

[bdavro23]

As the (very happy) owner of the LL Agnelli Steed suit discussed over the last page I thought I'd chime in with a couple of clarifications

1) This is my tenth or so bespoke jacket from Steed and I think they have pretty much got the fit perfectly dialled. This is different to many of my other suits in that we tried to create more of a Friday casual suit - hence the 3-roll-2 with broader lapels and the ticket pocket. It is exactly what I wanted though it will clearly not be to everyone's liking

2) The photo posted doesn't do the shoulders any favours, I think this is largely due to my pose and it should also be noted that it has settled significantly since. The second photo from the Twitter feed is probably more representative (but again this is before the shoulders settled). There is NO padding in the shoulders



3. The cloth is fairly heavy but by no means impractical. It is perfect for a Northern European Autumn and winter.

R-O-T

I am not a fan of how the shoulders look in this photo, but hands in pockets generally makes things look strange. The important thing is that you are happy with the suit and it meets your expectations. With that being said, I would love to see a better picture to see the settled in version.

 

[TRINI]



I have an NSM in that. Soft and relatively good at keeping a crease.

Oof. Took a look at your NSM suits and now I'm waffling b/ween the houndstooth and the POW.

vs

 

[Griffindork]

I had that fabric made up by Huntsman and nothing that anyone is unhappy about has anything to do with fabric or some period of time over which the fabric needs to "settle." The issues that people are highlighting are due solely to the fact that the wearer's hands are in his pockets and the pose that he is taking. That is why there are divots in the shoulders in the second photo. The most telling aspect of both photos is that despite the different positions, the neck stays firmly where it should as do the shoulders. That is the clearest indication from these photos that the jacket fits (and fits well). You might not like the style (I don't like Steed's style at all) but all indications are that the suit fits well. It is only on the internet that suits stay perfectly still. In the real world, they move as the wearer changes position.

 

[zalb916]

It is only on the internet that suits stay perfectly still. In the real world, they move as the wearer changes position.

It's kind of amazing how many times this needs repeating around here.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Both are great. I prefer POW as a pattern but I find myself wearing the houndstooth more often. The small pattern makes it easier to accessorize, at least for me.

 

[TRINI]



Both are great. I prefer POW as a pattern but I find myself wearing the houndstooth more often. The small pattern makes it easier to accessorize, at least for me.

Yeah, I could totally see that. Plus, I imagine it's easier to wear as separates.

 

[Coxsackie]

Thanks for the clarifications @R.O. Thornhill , @add911_11 and others.

I continue to learn.

 

[Pliny]

Quote:

anyone know who Elkann's tailor was here?.... or a hand-me-down from grandad?

He uses Alessandro Martorana, Milanese tailor Caraceni, (who also made the suits that Lapo inherited from his grandfather) + Huntsman and Anderson & Sheppard, but comparing the pattern matching on this and on his GD's I guess this is the original Agnelli tweed ......... so by Caraceni.

Personally, I prefer the less mannered styling. The shoulders r great, particularly considering this is probably not bespoke.

 

[aportnoy]

Love my Agnelli, too!

URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/844/oq5g.jpg/]

[/URL]

 

[venividivicibj]

For those of you who have cotton suits, do they exhibit any fading?

 

[aportnoy]

No...But, dry clean judiciously and excessive perspiration can lead to issues.

 

[forex]

Aportnoy, that is a bad ass suit, Despos?

 

[aportnoy]



Aportnoy, that is a bad ass suit, Despos?

Many thanks. Yes, Despos.

 

[hirschlederne]



For those of you who have cotton suits, do they exhibit any fading?

Yes, if you wash them.