The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[academe]

Hello folks - I haven't posted here or on Styleforum for a few years now, but just wanted to share photos of my latest acquisition:

And for the newer members of this thread, the gratuitous family photo:

...Looks like I may need to get a new watch box!

Edit: More deets on the PAM. It's the new 1392 with a 1950 Luminor case, 42 mm diameter, sandwich dial (probably obvious from the picture), and upgraded P.9010 movement (automatic with a three day power reserve). The newer P.9010 is thinner than its predecessor (P.9000), so the PAM 1392 fits more easily under a shirt cuff than the 392. The P.9010 also has a quick set hour hand, which makes moving between time zones that little bit easier (I travel quite a bit for work). Some Paneristi may scoff at the smaller case size, date window and automatic movement, but as a smaller-wristed gentleman who travels often for work, the case size, date, quick-set hour hand, and automatic movement make this a very practical choice for me.

 

[john sherdy]

Hello folks - I haven't posted here or on Styleforum for a few years now, but just wanted to share photos of my latest acquisition:

View attachment 824373

And for the newer members of this thread, the gratuitous family photo:

...Looks like I may need to get a new watch box!

Yeah, you should buy new box
Nice! Collection

 

[MrUnderwood]

imo Tudor fits the bill pretty well and the prices are quite easy. i've never tried one on but just browsing pics a bunch of the chronographs are pretty appealing. Imma think more on that, thx for the suggestion.

Tudors are very nice if you can live with their thickness - they are small bricks on my wrist

 

[MrUnderwood]

@academe I really like your collection, maybe abit too many complications on the AP and Reverso but thats minor things. I would consider selling the Daytona if I where you, the watch is extremely bland in my opinion.

Great purchase of the Panerai by the way, i very much like the colorway here.

 

[academe]

@academe I really like your collection, maybe abit too many complications on the AP and Reverso but thats minor things. I would consider selling the Daytona if I where you, the watch is extremely bland in my opinion.

Great purchase of the Panerai by the way, i very much like the colorway here.

Thanks! Horses for courses I suppose. I chose those specific variants of the Royal Oak and Grande Reverso precisely because of their dual time zone complications. While for the Daytona, I wouldn't sell it for the world (though might consider a trade for the cerachrom bezel version). To me, the Daytona is the ne plus ultra of sports chronographs, unchallenged by any accept the Speedy.

 

[academe]

Good question, the Hamilton and Tissots that i like are not very expensive (about $2-400) so a Cartier, VC or Rolex is out of the question for me in that price range.
With these Hamilton and Tissot i get a watch that has a movement which are somewhat equivalent to that of entry IWC (Mark XVI) and similar to that a Omega 2500 (the Omega 2254).

I am most likely never going to buy a very expensive watches every again (+$3.000) as i came to find that those are not comfortable for me to wear. I am simply too conscious and focused on not scratching them etc. - it was crazy for me to experience that a watch meant a restraint in your actual life.

Since i am probably not going to purchase anything expensive again i am in most cases left with ETA movements, the real inhouse movements from IWC, Rolex, JLC etc. means a significant higher entry than $3.000. Hence i need to ask myself if i want to pay around $2-2500 for a used Mark XVI or a used Omega 2254 or just get a nice Tissot/Hamilton, and for now i am fairly certain that i will pick the latter.

I think the cost-value discussion is all fine and good in a kind of abstract sense, but ultimately it all boils down to what you personally are willing to spend your money on, and what you - as an individual - think is subjectively good value. Similar discussions go on elsewhere on the forum about the relative value of bespoke vs MTM vs RTW tailoring. I'm personally heterodox when it comes to what tailoring I buy and wear. I've got bespoke tailoring made (from Savile Row, off-Row tailors, and good Asian tailors), and like all of the garments even though they vary wildly in terms of price and quality of handwork. I'm also not above buying nicely-made RTW if I see something I really like. I've found it really freeing to be heterodox rather than orthodox; I buy what I like (if I can afford it), and don't worry about whether I'm following correct "doctrine." Many that have gone bespoke swear off RTW like it's some kind of religion - yet what's the point? If it fits well and you like it, why not? Likewise with watches; just because I've decided to collect (in my own small way) mid- to higher-priced watches, I wouldn't be against getting something from a less high-value brand if it really speaks to me. Coming up with subjective rules for yourself just seems so limiting...

On the point you made about scratches, etc. - I don't baby my watches, and fortunately don't obsess too much about wear marks. When I first got my Royal Oak it was my daily wearer for 9 months, and picked up a few dings and scratches along the way. Likewise, those polished centre links on my Daytona now look a little bit worse for wear.... But I chalk it up to life. I've got a few more wrinkles and white hairs now then when I was twenty, but there you go, there's no turning back the clock...

 

[MrUnderwood]

@academe Funny enough, i came soo close to recommending the Speedmaster, as i prefer it to the Daytona by quite a distance.

By the way, i agree that value of a watch is quite subjective to a certain agree. I do not like radical people on either side of the fence; e.g. people whom do not acknowledge that Rolex is more than just its brand recognition and that they actually make high quality in-house watches. You may not like it, but you should be able to respect quality.

On the other hand i think certain watch enthusiast need to recognize that in the upper bracket of watch value is that you are paying a FORTUNE for small small small MINOR MINOR improvements; buying an equivalent Patek over a in-house Nomos does not mean that you have gotten a better watch; it just means you have paid a hugh amount for the Patek.

The subjective aspect of watches becomes crystal clear once you move in the upper value enclave. That is there the increased amount of fluffyness occur - alot of alluf terms are constantly flowing around "wow the patek calatrava has a better finish than the ALS saxonia". In 80% of these cases i am to stupid/blind to see the difference, it is just an alluf term as most watches has a great finish.

 

[justinkapur]

Gents I own the watch above and the keepers have ripped off and I am looking to replace the strap. Any suggestions?

 

[no frills]

@academe - glad to see you post here again!

Today on the wrist - it's been three years since this bad boy was launched, off cycle, to a flurry of bad reviews from so-called tastemakers. I loved it from the get go, and even more so when I saw it in the metal. Sometimes the heart wants what it wants. And sometimes my heart sings for monsters.

 

[academe]

View attachment 824562

Gents I own the watch above and the keepers have ripped off and I am looking to replace the strap. Any suggestions?

What's your budget? I'm UK/Europe based and have used a number of independent strapmakers here, I like Equus Leather and Camille Fournet, but they tend to make slightly pricier straps...

 

[justinkapur]

I am in touch with Equus they made my panerai strap, my gator wallet, and a bunch of my belts.

I spoke with Charlie and we thought a navy gator with off white stitching

 

[academe]

I am in touch with Equus they made my panerai strap, my gator wallet, and a bunch of my belts.

I spoke with Charlie and we thought a navy gator with off white stitching

Navy would contrast nicely with that creamy dial. What about the ostrich he carries? I quite like the texture of the grain. Alternatively, a deep green might work well (British racing green?). The bridle leather he has in green is quite dark, so isn't as flamboyant and could pass as black in low light.

 

[academe]

@academe - glad to see you post here again!

Today on the wrist - it's been three years since this bad boy was launched, off cycle, to a flurry of bad reviews from so-called tastemakers. I loved it from the get go, and even more so when I saw it in the metal. Sometimes the heart wants what it wants. And sometimes my heart sings for monsters.

View attachment 824677

Nice to "see" you here, too, nofrills. I like your monster!

 

[academe]

So when I picked my PAM this weekend I had a chance to kick a few tyres, and tried on a couple of watches which I've long admired - the Moser Perpetual with fume dial, Grand Lange 1, and the Saxonia. Just for fun, I also took a look at the simple Breguet which I've posted below. I was, unexpectedly, quite taken by it. I really loved the engine-turned dial (with range of textures and finishes), the fluted/coin-edge case, the asymmetry of the off-centres small seconds, and the nicely blues and elongated hands. Thoughts? Any Breguet owners out there who want to share their experiences?

 

[Omega Male]

@academe - glad to see you post here again!

Today on the wrist - it's been three years since this bad boy was launched, off cycle, to a flurry of bad reviews from so-called tastemakers. I loved it from the get go, and even more so when I saw it in the metal. Sometimes the heart wants what it wants. And sometimes my heart sings for monsters.

View attachment 824677

Still totally nasty.

Enjoy!