The unofficial Drake's London Appreciation Thread

[Treble]

Hi folks, snap of the new duffel coat from the Piedmont shoot.

Wasn't remotely on my radar as Michael Hills fully buttoned/toggled styling didn't do it for me.

However, trying it on, I'm impressed. I like the fit, the lack of raglan sleeve, the deep navy colour and the wool is a wonderful weight/texture.

Still not sure if I'll purchase; I go between thinking it's a interesting piece of design worth splashing out for or that it's Paddington Bears "smart going out" coat.

Sometimes the classics don't need to be improved, I would put the money towards something more interesting and just buy a Gloverall or similar.

 

[The B.]

Sometimes the classics don't need to be improved, I would put the money towards something more interesting and just buy a Gloverall or similar.

Came here to say the same.
I own one Monty, that costs less than half, and it’s perfect.

 

[GabrielJF]

Yep - to me the duffle coat with the dressy collar looks like something that should have been abandoned, only for a few to be found during the next sample sale. It's not an item of clothing that makes any sense.

There are some things that Drake's do that I think really do build on the original. I think there Raglans are fantastic. Their wax coveralls too. No argument for the much cheaper barbour - besides functionality for shooting - will convince me that the more substantial and boxy Drake's waxed coverall is not a nicer looking item of clothing that earns it's keep, despite the price. But in that instance they took a design classic and paired it back a bit whilst adding their own signature: a beautiful drape and an interesting shape. Same with their Raglans.

The duffle coat for me feels like they are trying too hard to release new stuff and chucking a dressy collar on a duffle coat seems really ill conceived to me. Sometimes less is definitely more!

 

[admp86]

Interesting views - I own both the Brown & POW raglan as well as a Green Coverall.

I found the fit of this considerably better on me than any of those. The PoW was deeply disappointing (too heavy, limited use, poor proportions) and I'll probably sell it.

I have previously owned Gloverall's Monty in Camel, but that didn't remotely work for me. The shape of the Drakes does - it is more A Line from side on than a standard duffel, yet holds a square shape front on.

I do agree on the collar though; it's almost trying to be both a duffel and an overcoat. Anything verging on a hybrid jacket usually ends up being a "no" for me.

 

[Kid_Icarus]

Interesting views - I own both the Brown & POW raglan as well as a Green Coverall.

I found the fit of this considerably better on me than any of those. The PoW was deeply disappointing (too heavy, limited use, poor proportions) and I'll probably sell it.

I have previously owned Gloverall's Monty in Camel, but that didn't remotely work for me. The shape of the Drakes does - it is more A Line from side on than a standard duffel, yet holds a square shape front on.

I do agree on the collar though; it's almost trying to be both a duffel and an overcoat. Anything verging on a hybrid jacket usually ends up being a "no" for me.

I'm kind of relieved to read these comments about the PoW; I also bought it last year and as much as I want to love it (the cloth is incredible in person), I find it surprisingly hard to wear. On me it just doesn't fall in a flattering way — the balance is off. Despite the extremely thick cloth it feels top-heavy and weirdly insubstantial from the hips down. It sort of nips in at the bottom when seen from the front when you want it to hang straight, and as a consequence it makes me look even broader than I am through the waist. It just doesn't look good. I wish something could be done about the fit, because I do think it's an incredible coat objectively, but I suspect the problems I have wearing it just stem from the unstructured nature of the garment itself and probably couldn't be successfully addressed by a tailor.

You mention "poor proportions." Was your experience similar, I wonder?

 

[admp86]

I'm kind of relieved to read these comments about the PoW; I also bought it last year and as much as I want to love it (the cloth is incredible in person), I find it surprisingly hard to wear. On me it just doesn't fall in a flattering way — the balance is off. Despite the extremely thick cloth it feels top-heavy and weirdly unsubstantial from the hips down. It sort of nips in at bottom when seen from the front when you want it to hang straight, and as a consequence it makes me look even broader than I am through the waist. It just doesn't look good. I wish something could be done about the fit, because I do think it's an incredible coat objectively, but I suspect the problems I have wearing it just stem from the unstructured nature of the garment itself and probably couldn't be successfully addressed by a tailor.

You mention "poor proportions." Was your experience similar, I wonder?

Couldn't have put it better myself. I want to love it as a coat, the material as you say is just stellar. But... I put it on and no matter how I style it, the balance is off.

I thought maybe it was me, that I bought the wrong size and if I lost a bunch of weight It'd fit right. Nope, lost the weight this year and nothing.

That's why I have the brown version. Purchased it on a whim (primarily for Cormoran Strike coat vibes), tried it on in the same size and... it's amazing. Half the weight, drapes wonderfully and the fit is spot on.

I may yet try to take it to Pinnas & Needles in London to see if anything can be done to correct the balance, but otherwise, we'll be parting ways...

 

[Sharriman101]

Anyone know the weight/warmth of this jacket please?

Houndstooth Check Harris Tweed Donkey Chore Jacket

This donkey jacket is our interpretation of a classic silhouette. We took inspiration from the wool sack coats worn by workers in the 19th century, alongside those eponymous jackets worn by navvies working on donkey engines. Constructed from Harris Tweed in a classic gun club check, it is...

www.drakes.com

 

[Trevallon]

Hi folks, snap of the new duffel coat from the Piedmont shoot.

Wasn't remotely on my radar as Michael Hills fully buttoned/toggled styling didn't do it for me.

However, trying it on, I'm impressed. I like the fit, the lack of raglan sleeve, the deep navy colour and the wool is a wonderful weight/texture.

Still not sure if I'll purchase; I go between thinking it's a interesting piece of design worth splashing out for or that it's Paddington Bears "smart going out" coat.

While I really like the fact that it doesn' have a hood, the highlighted toggles somehow don't do it for me. Also, thank you, I will never look at a dufflecoat again without thinking:

That's Paddington Bears "smart going out" coat!

 

[C_kimlin920]

I'm kind of relieved to read these comments about the PoW; I also bought it last year and as much as I want to love it (the cloth is incredible in person), I find it surprisingly hard to wear. On me it just doesn't fall in a flattering way — the balance is off. Despite the extremely thick cloth it feels top-heavy and weirdly insubstantial from the hips down. It sort of nips in at the bottom when seen from the front when you want it to hang straight, and as a consequence it makes me look even broader than I am through the waist. It just doesn't look good. I wish something could be done about the fit, because I do think it's an incredible coat objectively, but I suspect the problems I have wearing it just stem from the unstructured nature of the garment itself and probably couldn't be successfully addressed by a tailor.

You mention "poor proportions." Was your experience similar, I wonder?

Just curious Which POW coat you are talking about? You have any photos on body as im curious what your issues are with the coat 🤔

 

[admp86]

Just curious Which POW coat you are talking about? You have any photos on body as im curious what your issues are with the coat 🤔

Cleaning out the spare room to make this more presentable as photo (!), both Raglans attached. Issues, to pick but a few;

1) Sleeve bunching up at shoulder
2) Sleeve too short (obviously fixable)
3) Billowing out at the pockets
4) Folding back in at the bottom
5) Top heavy look from side on
6) Too heavy to be usable for 10/11 months of the year in the uk

But... it's pretty...

Contrasting to the drape of the brown raglan and if I'm honest flicking back to the duffel, the fit is far, far better in my view.

 

[C_kimlin920]

Cleaning out the spare room to make this more presentable as photo (!), both Raglans attached. Issues, to pick but a few;

1) Sleeve bunching up at shoulder
2) Sleeve too short (obviously fixable)
3) Billowing out at the pockets
4) Folding back in at the bottom
5) Top heavy look from side on
6) Too heavy to be usable for 10/11 months of the year in the uk

But... it's pretty...

Contrasting to the drape of the brown raglan and if I'm honest flicking back to the duffel, the fit is far, far better in my view.

Thanks for the explanation and pics it’s very interesting to hear as it’s the same exact coat design..

 

[wahnamhong]

Cleaning out the spare room to make this more presentable as photo (!), both Raglans attached. Issues, to pick but a few;

1) Sleeve bunching up at shoulder
2) Sleeve too short (obviously fixable)
3) Billowing out at the pockets
4) Folding back in at the bottom
5) Top heavy look from side on
6) Too heavy to be usable for 10/11 months of the year in the uk

But... it's pretty...

Contrasting to the drape of the brown raglan and if I'm honest flicking back to the duffel, the fit is far, far better in my view.

Yeah, I don’t see much difference? Plus I actually think the PoW looks great on you. Fit looks perfect imho - it’s just a more ‘out there’ coat versus the dark brown. I say this as someone with the PoW myself and with some of the same issues as you mentioned.

 

[Trevallon]

Yeah, I don’t see much difference? Plus I actually think the PoW looks great on you. Fit looks perfect imho - it’s just a more ‘out there’ coat versus the dark brown. I say this as someone with the PoW myself and with some of the same issues as you mentioned.

I don't know. The sleeve lenghts do appear to differ quite a bit (in the photos, could just be the stance) and the brown coat does seem to be bigger/more relaxed/softer/ more drape-y, whatever you want to call it.
Just judging by the pictures I can totally understand @admp86 's reservations on the POW. I think the brown raglan looks really good on you.

 

[Kid_Icarus]

Anyone know the weight/warmth of this jacket please?

Houndstooth Check Harris Tweed Donkey Chore Jacket

This donkey jacket is our interpretation of a classic silhouette. We took inspiration from the wool sack coats worn by workers in the 19th century, alongside those eponymous jackets worn by navvies working on donkey engines. Constructed from Harris Tweed in a classic gun club check, it is...

www.drakes.com

I can't speak to the weight in quantitative terms or specific units, but I have that donkey chore and it's pretty substantial. As opposed to some of the other versions of that style, this one is lined so it wears warmer and drapes heavier. Probably warm enough for deep winter if layered with substantial knitwear, depending on where you live.

 

[Mood Indigo]

Light of northern France.