The Ultimate Toronto Thread

[suitforcourt]

Pablo Hadarits added some taps and sole protectors to these AE Broadstreets and vintage Hanovers.

 

[induere_to]

Part 2:

Sleeve seam. Machine stitched. Keeping in mind that everything around it was all attached by hand.

Drape check before I tear into the shoulder:

Overall, I'm rather impressed by how well the shape has held up without pressing throughout the entire dissection process.

Finally getting into the anatomy:

Jacket hem hand stitching:

The quarter edge tape is blind-stitched throughout the fronts.

Construction of the canvas is all done by machine, but it's a pretty high-quality canvas nonetheless.

Lapel construction:

Flip the canvas over to get underneath; edge tape around every seam... but also no fusing anywhere.

Canvas is tacked to the pocket bags:

The quarters. No fusing.

Jets... no fusing.

The hand chain-stitch that holds the silesia under the collar. You can see where the original chain stitch ends and the bastes from alterations were done.

Dart construction on the fronts. Also no fusing.

Appears to me that Brioni is a pretty meticulously crafted garment. A lot of machine work in its construction, but also a lot handwork where it matters and shortcuts are not required. I'd say it's the most well-made garment I have taken apart so far. Most impressive is it's lack of having any fusing in it. Though the garment has gone through a number of alterations and being that the fabric is a Super 150's, it's held up pretty well without the use of fusing which is commonly used to make a garment more durable and to last longer.

 

[burgerkong]

Nordstrom clearance now at the 20-40% level.

 

[chiggyv]

Nordstrom clearance now at the 20-40% level.

I was at Sherway on Friday and it was pretty slim pickings. Mostly their "value" branded clothing in odd colors and sizes. A few Reigning Champ robes still at $180+ stood out but it seemeded like they shipped out most of the good stuff.

 

[partenopean]

For folks here who work in the financial district -- is everyone remote/hybrid still?

What's the norm -- 1 to 2 days in the office per week?

Anyone been issued veiled threats to "come in 'of your own free will' every day or else"?

 

[KWang94]

For folks here who work in the financial district -- is everyone remote/hybrid still?

What's the norm -- 1 to 2 days in the office per week?

Anyone been issued veiled threats to "come in 'of your own free will' every day or else"?

I work at a Big 5 and it's hybrid. No specific mandate on the number of times we have to come in per week - if I don't show up for 1-2 weeks, I'm pretty sure no one will say anything. Helps that my manager as well as department head are both located in another province.

 

[maebach]

I'm at a large asset manager and we are told to come in 3x a week starting April 1. It was 2x from summer 2022 - March 2023. I think it's hard to enforce and will depend on the team. Fortunately my team has a lot of senior managers who are parents of young kids. I think it'll be tough to tell them to come in 3x a week and figure out babysitting. They could just walk away.

 

[partenopean]

are you at a firm where HR is in NY or overseas somewhere?

Seems most firms are mandating back-to-office but enforcement seems to be all over the place. Like you say it seems to be team-dependent, and in principle, that's not good (or right).

I know UBS has other headaches at the moment, but my understanding is no one comes into ht e Toronto office anymore unless they have to on a particular day. Possibly because they know they won't be there for much longer, but still.

 

[maebach]

No, we're Canadian. Agreed, if I was at UBS/Credit Suisse I wouldnt be coming in at all

 

[Bersabee]

I work at a NYC based firm - in 5 days a week for the most part unless I pull a late night.

Other groups at my firm are in 3-4 days a week depending if they have to go to a client site.

 

[partenopean]

Please tell me they order you to wear full suit and tie 5 days a week! LOL

Seriously, they dwell on real estate values and the future of cities' downtown cores if this work-from-home stuff carries on, but what about the suit?!

If being allowed to "work" from home lounging around in pyjamas or whatever is needed to keep people from walking away from their jobs, then whatever else happens, then the suit is dead.

 

[Ebichuman]

I’m at a bay st law firm, we’re expected to be in 2-3 days a week but it looks emptier than that. Still, our ethos apparently calls for in person work so the management is trying to encourage more people to come in, so far carrots only, no sticks.

 

[Bersabee]

Please tell me they order you to wear full suit and tie 5 days a week! LOL

Seriously, they dwell on real estate values and the future of cities' downtown cores if this work-from-home stuff carries on, but what about the suit?!

If being allowed to "work" from home lounging around in pyjamas or whatever is needed to keep people from walking away from their jobs, then whatever else happens, then the suit is dead.

Full suit with clients - I typically have a jacket on Monday-Thursday.

That being said - I really need to expand my jacket collection…

Side note: has anyone tried the new Roma cut from suitsupply? It’s a Neapolitan style jacket - very similar to Spier’s neo cut style.

 

[Ebichuman]

Side note: has anyone tried the new Roma cut from suitsupply? It’s a Neapolitan style jacket - very similar to Spier’s neo cut style.

You’ll probably have better luck asking in the SuSu thread - bigger audience should produce better response. I am actually curious, too 😀

 

[partenopean]

Not related to the cut, but I had a horrible experience at Suitsupply. Just don't rely on getting any knowledgeable advice if you go to the store.

I also had a horrible experience in the sidewalk surrounding Suitsupply, because I was an accidental passer-by during what I assume was a dispute between the store manager and an irate customer. A dispute that was unlike any ordinary dispute between irate customer and steadfast store manager.