The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

[clee1982]



Thanks!


I didn't particularly ask for it to be wide.


Asked for a sharp and aggressive chisel, and he has made it as slim as possible for my feet, within his style. Shoji takes inspiration from vintage British shoes, and I believe he always tries to make the lasts as short as possible while still remaining a nice balance. Compared to his sample we had to make this slightly wider to fit my feet and keeping a smooth line. 
I'm quite tall with already long feet, and don't want them to appear like long catamarans. Really came out just as I had hoped!

 

nice, as long as you like it that's all that matters

 

[Stefan88]

nice, as long as you like it that's all that matters

Has a cool vibe to it
Believe he draws inspiration from Tuczek on his chiseled last, and that's something I like.

 

[j ingevaldsson]



F's sake. Need to buy those JM weston loafers I want fast then!

Yes could be an idea

A decline in the leather quality of Westons seems quite likely in the future, even if it'll take some time until the market notices it.

 

[Stefan88]

Yes could be an idea

A decline in the leather quality of Westons seems quite likely in the future, even if it'll take some time until the market notices it.

Wanted to try some on in Japan, but they went to size 9, only. Sales assistant told me I shouldn't care if the toes were smashed inside, as loafers apparently are supposed to fit like that
So, where does one try on a JM Weston?

 

[j ingevaldsson]



Wanted to try some on in Japan, but they went to size 9, only. Sales assistant told me I shouldn't care if the toes were smashed inside, as loafers apparently are supposed to fit like that

So, where does one try on a JM Weston?

Haha good advice. Weston is particularly hard in sizing since it differs a lot between lasts and they have so many width options. I'd say a flight to London might be the easiest

 

[Stefan88]

Haha good advice. Weston is particularly hard in sizing since it differs a lot between lasts and they have so many width options. I'd say a flight to London might be the easiest

Can always wear some Aldens instead.

 

[Zapasman]

JMW has 7 different widhts. C and D are medium.
I understand Hermes (Du Puy) will keep supplyng JMW with very good hides. I am not that sure about other 3rd parties.
JMW leather is top notch.

 

[Zapasman]

50% of its box calf goes to Uk, Spain, Portugal and Italy.

 

[ntempleman]

I don't expect much to change for the negative as a result of Hermes buying TdP, they already own multiple tanneries whose leathers are simple to get hold of. If it means more stability for the tannery that's good for everyone, Hermes are generally good for the industry (crocodile scandal notwithstanding!) - tanneries can't rely on just one customer, they have to sell as much as they can regardless of who owns them.

The only worry would be if LVMH manage to swindle more control over Hermes in years to come, they love shutting doors to the outside world.

 

[VRaivio]

What's this about a crocoscandal I hear (or read)? I do somehow remember reading about Ermee buying nearly all porosus hides on the planet.

 

[ntempleman]

PETA had an exposé earlier this year on some crocodile farms that provide Hermès, if you google it you'll find plenty of articles. It was pretty damaging to their reputation.

 

[DWFII]

I read the story and I viewed the Peta video. I can't say I have any sympathy for Hermes and I certainly deplore the cruelty and indifference to suffering...and to life itself...that is on display at these facilities in South Africa and Texas.

That said, in a rational world, the only scandal is the way in which the media manipulates people...and maybe the way people allow themselves to be manipulated. Willful ignorance--"No brains is fun," IOW.

What we see in the South African and Texas operations are not isolated practices. They are a result of the demands that Hermes places on its sources. And that in turn is a direct result of the expectations of the average consumer. It's all part of the "factory mentality" which informs and drives contemporary society...and perhaps all of society's ills, as well.

The demands of fashion...and impatience; the obsession with the superficial regardless of objective quality; the indifference to pain and suffering and long term environmental impacts of the commercial shoe industry (virtually all mass manufacturing, in fact); and all of it driven by our own insatiable need for novelty and immediate gratification--they are all of a piece.

From my perspective, there's is no scandal here. The essentials of the Peta story are repeated every day in almost every aspect of our lives...we just ignore or accept them. They are repeated in every animal that is raised for food (chickens, turkeys, cattle, swine) and every animal that is harvested for leather--every animal that comes under human husbandry.

As shoemakers, in particular, we are complicit in the death (even the pain and suffering) of a life for every pair of shoes that we make. To one degree or another...we are involved in the industrialization of death. It's only a matter of scale (although scale is what drives the excesses).

But having said all that, I also have to observe that, almost without exception, the very people who are so wroth and outraged at the indifference to life and the pain and suffering of crocodiles are the same people who are equally...if not moreso...outraged at the effrontery of those exposing the abuses of Planned Parenthood. Not the barbarity nor the debasing of human life...nor even the loss/sacrifice of a human life...but the expose' itself.

It's all of a piece.

--

 

[Kuro]



^^^Those are also very nice Stefan!


On another note, slightly off topic but probably interests some of you anyway, is the fact that Hermès now have acquired Tanneries Du Puy from EPI/JM Weston, hence owns both the world's main suppliers of calf leather for shoes. Will be interesting to see how this affects the market.. Wrote more about it on my blog.

Interesting. I was recently speaking with a shoemaker in Paris who said that it was difficult to place small orders with du Puy ...

 

[waynewei]

JLP GJC

 

[chogall]

Very nice. Custom medallion?