The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[ptr1988]

Hi this is my first luxire shirt. Its their test trial shirt. My apologies in advance for the short. My pants are at the dry cleaner. Could you guys please critique this shirt? I was thinking to decrease the armhole, but not sure how much. Increase the bicep by .25. Increase the sleeve length by .25 or so. Maybe decrease the bottom by .25. How are the shoulders? Should I decrease them. Is the chest okay as well? Thanks.

 

[dalevy]

Question for you all. Do you think the midsection needs to be let out a bit on this? Front seems fine, but I don't know if the vents are being pushed out, seems like they might be. And can anything be done about the slight wrinkling around the top of the collar?

 

[mensimageconsultant]

That's a brand-new jacket? That looks like puckering on the lapel, which shouldn't happen on a jacket, especially a new one. Also, the jacket is too short and the shoulders do not fit right. The left shoulder looks raised, for which a tailor should compensate. Overall, if that's a bespoke or MTM jacket, that doesn't reflect well on its tailor.

 

[dalevy]

That's a brand-new jacket? That looks like puckering on the lapel, which shouldn't happen on a jacket, especially a new one. Also, the jacket is too short and the shoulders do not fit right. The left shoulder looks raised, for which a tailor should compensate. Overall, if that's a bespoke or MTM jacket, that doesn't reflect well on its tailor.

Thanks. When you say puckering on the label, what are you referring to and specifically the cause of that? I mean, there is stitching along the edge of the lapel that causes some surface rippling, which is exaggerated by the overhead light in the photo. Is that what you mean by the puckering?

When you refer to the raised shoulder, do you mean that the tailor should have adjusted something so that they look even? It's unpadded, so I don't think that would be possible? Or do you mean that, the shoulders are not even causing something else to look off as well, and the tailor should have compensated for that other thing? I can see that there is some rippling on the left shoulder, but that is usually not there, that I think is being caused by some bunching of the shirt underneath and the harsh lighting.

And I guess for the length, that I suppose is a debate that rages on. For what it's worth, I raised this issue when getting fitted, and the tailor was very sure in his decision. fwiw, it's longer in the front. It is what it is, and the buttoning point seems very good.

Maybe I'll try another set of pics in the trousers as well.

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Thanks. When you say puckering on the label, what are you referring to and specifically the cause of that? I mean, there is stitching along the edge of the lapel that causes some surface rippling, which is exaggerated by the overhead light in the photo. Is that what you mean by the puckering?

Yes.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/372461/wrinkled-lapel-canvassed-suit
As you can infer from that, pictures aren't enough. A tailor would need to examine it to understand what is happening.

When you refer to the raised shoulder, do you mean that the tailor should have adjusted something so that they look even? It's unpadded, so I don't think that would be possible? Or do you mean that, the shoulders are not even causing something else to look off as well, and the tailor should have compensated for that other thing? I can see that there is some rippling on the left shoulder, but that is usually not there, that I think is being caused by some bunching of the shirt underneath and the harsh lighting.

Might not be possible now. Padding in there initially could have made the shoulders level. The raised shoulder might be making different amounts of shirt sleeve show. From the side, there's clearly too much material in the jacket shoulder area. Technically some of it might be the upper sleeve, which then could be narrowed. Frankly, in the long run, all that probably should be addressed via fitness. It's simpler than having to get garment after garment modified.

 

[dalevy]

Yes.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/372461/wrinkled-lapel-canvassed-suit
As you can infer from that, pictures aren't enough. A tailor would need to examine it to understand what is happening.
Might not be possible now. Padding in there initially could have made the shoulders level. The raised shoulder might be making different amounts of shirt sleeve show. From the side, there's clearly too much material in the jacket shoulder area. Technically some of it might be the upper sleeve, which then could be narrowed. Frankly, in the long run, all that probably should be addressed via fitness. It's simpler than having to get garment after garment modified.

Ha, thanks. I'm fairly sure bulking up is not an option. I've inquired of the retailer to see what they say about the puckering and if they will take a look at it, as well as the upper arm. It was an MTM suit from the end of last year. So I'll see what they say before maybe naming the store and the tailor, which would be recognizable to the SF crowd.

I've also inquired about the puckering around the top of the collar. When I roll the collar up a little bit the puckering seems to go away. It seems as if the cloth comes a little off the collar stiffener at the top of the collar. Is there a way to fix that?

 

[zerostyle]

Hi guys,

I'm struggling with a fit on a dress shirt before I put in some more custom orders.

Concerns:
- Main concern: The waist area bunching. I'm still getting a lot of bunching, but only have maybe 1-2" of slack in the waist. Would you take in the waist more? I feel that because I'm skinny, if I slim the waist more, my upper body looks very short/small going into a pair of mid-raise dress trousers.
- Overall look: I feel like my upper torso looks tiny compared to my pants/waist. Just need slimmer trousers? Some way to elongate my upper body?
'
How would you improve the fit of this dress shirt with measurements? Pants are the Lands' End "Tailored Fit" Year'rounders.

 

[Mr Sola]

Shirtmaven and others,

This is an updated (and I think much improved shirt) based on previous feedback. It has been commercially laundered once. I think the waist needs to come in more, and I'm not sure if I need the yoke or the chest to come in as well (possibly both?). I would really appreciate some more feedback.

 

[Mr Sola]

Also,

This is my first attempt at a short sleeve casual shirt for drinks. I intend to wear untucked. I think the sleeves could be slightly longer (maybe 1/2"). What do you think?

 

[Alexander]

I need help about the fit of this jacket. Please.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[burgerkong]

Will taking in the side seams help with the ripples at the armpit areas (pardon the dusty mirror and the crappy photo - my phone is on its last legs)?

 

[Leather]

Help me decide which size Ludlow suit jacket to keep. Note that I'll be shortening and taking in the waist of whichever one I keep, I mainly want to make sure the shoulder fits well.

Size 40 (my shoulder bulges out the side very slightly)


Size 42:

 

[dalevy]

if you can see the shoulder bulging why would you get that one? They both look short though, why would you shorten?

 

[Leather]

if you can see the shoulder bulging why would you get that one? They both look short though, why would you shorten?

It's bulging out every so slightly, so perhaps it's not a legitimate concern. They're both not as short as I'd like. The length of the jacket ideally hits around my wrist and right now it's hitting at the bottom of my thumb.

 

[dalevy]

It's bulging out every so slightly, so perhaps it's not a legitimate concern. They're both not as short as I'd like. The length of the jacket ideally hits around my wrist and right now it's hitting at the bottom of my thumb.

That bulging would bother me. Why compromise? Why not just get the larger size? The 42 looks much much better. If the larger size doesn't fit you well enough in other places to have it tailored, why not keep looking?

For length, I'm not sure why you measure using your arm. My arms are short, other's arms are long. I'd do more research into ideal jacket length and make a more informed decision. I just note this because the jacket looks kind of short but it would be easier to tell with full length pictures (and from the side and back as well).