The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[jandersson]

Below are a few photos of my second Luxire attempt. Please help me diagnose the fit and share any ideas on how to improve the fit for my next order.


More and larger photos can be found here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/94koq0db4nlevlh/AADXuE4YS48nl0JcDGDtVtz4a?dl=0

I've identified the following fit issues:

Shirt

• Front
  • Lines running from armpits towards collar
  • Circumference too tight at button 3 & 4 when sitting
• Back
  • Asymmetric lines behind collar
  • Lines from armpits towards shoulder blades

Pants

• Front
  • Excess fabric at the fork
• Side
  • Fabric buckling above back of knee
  • Fabric buckling below knee
• Back
  • Fabric bumps between side adjusters
  • Fit at fork/seat not good

 

[blulegend]

Hi,

I've been trying to see if the Suit Supply Lazio is a good cut for me. Based on my measurements, I ordered the 34R and 36R (the site suggested a 34R).

My chest is 35.5", upper waist 32.5", lower waist 34".

There are pictures at the link below. I didn't bother taking pics in the pants and instead used a pair of pants I feel fit well. I also didn't wear shoes, sorry! The first 8 are the 34R buttoned and unbuttoned, the next 8 are the 36R, and the final 8 are the pinned 36R.

https://goo.gl/photos/yYaH6ErXN6smSuWKA

My initial thoughts are that the 34R jacket is snug and fits like my Black Lapel suits but even more snug. For some reason, it looks too small to me in the mirror but okay in the pictures. The waist is tight and maybe the hips too. Can the jacket waist/hips even be let out? The pants are almost impossible to button up and when I do, the upper thigh and crotch are pretty tight too. Although not pictured, I think they need to be let out about 1.5-2" in the waist and some in the hips(seat?). Obviously, I'd need to ask a tailor to look at it, but traditionally, how much is reasonable?

The 36R jacket, on the other hand, is roomier. Maybe it seems big because I'm used to wearing a more snug Black Lapel suit. However, the 36R feels pretty good when I pin it. I pinned the waist (~0.5") and one arm (~0.25"). I also pinned a little between the shoulder blades because it seems there is a bit of extra material there. I folded up the sleeves almost 0.5". Can the these working cuffs be shortened by 0.25-0.375"? Ultimately, the chest seems to be a little bit large though. Not sure it that's a big deal or not, but I noticed it. The pants fit at the waist and but need to be slimmed a bit in the thighs and legs, maybe 0.75" in the thighs and 0.5" around the knees.

I also have a lower right shoulder. When I relax, my right arm will pull down on the bottom of the arm hole a bit and cause a slight bunching of the right chest piece near my arm pit. I notice this on both the 34R and 36R, but it's less noticeable on the 34R to me. On the 36R, it might have been better after I pinned it but I can't really remember.

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!

 

[rcstinger]

@Idreamofsakura
Thanks for the feedback, I will pass it on to indochino in hopes of getting a remake

 

[Shirtmaven]

jandersson

work on your posture.

you have sloping shoulders and a very low right low.
you have large shoulder blades, that are accentuated by the fact that you have very sway posture.

send them the photos, but not sure how much they can do long distance.

start by making the yoke narrower.

you will need darts to get rid of some of that mess in the back.

 

[jandersson]

Thank you @Shirtmaven !

Lots and lots of new information to digest. I didn't know I have sloping shoulders, a low right shoulder, large shoulder blades and a swayback posture! But now when you point it out, I can see it and plan my workouts accordingly.

• I'll suggest decreasing the yoke width by ~1 cm
• The shirt actually already have darts. I'll discuss making them deeper or perhaps decreasing the width of the back panel.

Below are some of the alterations Luxire suggested with my comments in bold:

Quote Luxire email:

• Adjust shoulder slope by 0.5"
  Probably to better accommodate my sloping shoulders. I hope this will get rid of the lines from armpits towards collar and shoulder blades.
• Decrease yoke at neck by 1/8"
  I suppose this will improve on the asymmetric lines behind the collar, but 1/8" sounds awfully small!

Pants:

• Increase front and back rise at crotch by 0.5".
• Decrease inseam at crotch by 0.5".
• Scoop the seat by 0.25"
  I believe the three above alterations will let out the fork and re-shape the seat
• Decrease back length at waist by 0.5"
  I hope this will get rid of the bumps between the side adjusters

I'd love some more input. Any suggestions on how to get the pant leg to fall nicer?

 

[Mr.P]

...

 

[NotTooShabby]

Hi there guys, I am a new member and just recently got my first MTM suit from Black Lapel. The pants are fine, but I am pretty sure the jacket needs a remake. I would love to get any feedback on what alterations should be done.

My thoughts are:

• + 1" Chest
• + 1" Waist
• - 0.5" Hips
• + 0.5" Sleeve Length
• + 0.5" Arms/Biceps
• There are slight shoulder divots, but after reading a bunch of threads about them, I still don't have any ideas on how to get rid of them.

 

[fcong]

@fcong the chest is too tight.
see where the stripes go off at the third button.

2nd button might be misplaced.
the slight bump is common.
it will be hidden by a tie or if open you will not notice it.

has the shirt been washed?
the collar may be too tight after washing.

@koala T
i am assuming this shirt is to be worn untucked?

has it been washed yet?

you need a lot more then 2 cm in the hip

also your left shoulder slopes.

sleeves might be too long.

i think i see a pocket.
too high and too large.
te collars and cuffs seem a bit large for casual,
you do have a long neck so the height is ok
waist +10cm
hip +6cm

add darts 3cm each

Thank you Shirtmaven for your comments!

 

[Emthigious]

A friend of mine is looking for some fit feedback. I have some thoughts of my own, as does he. But I'd like to hear what you think first Thanks!







Please excuse the poor lighting.. All we could do at the time.

 

[LGHT]

Finding the right tailor?

I just recently purchased a few new suits from the 2nd had store (new with tags) and although they fit they need to be tailored. One needs a lot of work, but since I only paid around $50 for each one it's not a big deal to pay more to tailoring. I was looking at the prices someone posted for me here.

http://www.brotherstailors.com/alterations-prices/

Looking at those prices it seems if I shorten the sleeves, take in the back and shoulders it's about $200. Do most shops quote by what needs to be done in the above link or do they just charge a flat fee and make it fit? I'm located in Orange County and it seems you can go to Santa Ana for a really inexpensive shop or head down to Newport Beach where the Bespoke tailors are. I could imagine a huge price difference between the two.

How does one go about finding a decent tailor that won't charge me the same rate as my Attorney?

 

[Ttailor]



Finding the right tailor?

I just recently purchased a few new suits from the 2nd had store (new with tags) and although they fit they need to be tailored.  One needs a lot of work, but since I only paid around $50 for each one it's not a big deal to pay more to tailoring.  I was looking at the prices someone posted for me here.

http://www.brotherstailors.com/alterations-prices/

Looking at those prices it seems if I shorten the sleeves, take in the back and shoulders it's about $200.  Do most shops quote by what needs to be done in the above link or do they just charge a flat fee and make it fit?  I'm located in Orange County and it seems you can go to Santa Ana for a really inexpensive shop or head down to Newport Beach where the Bespoke tailors are.  I could imagine a huge price difference between the two. 

How does one go about finding a decent tailor that won't charge me the same rate as my Attorney?

I don't know what you expect to be paid per hour, but I expect to be paid a fair wage for my time, don't you?

You pay for experience and technical knowledge, plus all the usual costs of doing business.

I will also tell you that altering clothes is often fraught with complication because factory made clothes are not made to be easily altered.

If you think about the process of shortening rtw sleeves for instance, here's a very rough rundown.
Fitting in order to mark new sleeve length.
Remove button/s
Maybe unpick one of the fake buttonholes because it will look odd too close to the hem.
Unpick the area on the sleeve lining to access the sleeve hem
Turn it inside out and detach whatever hem treatment there is.
Discover that the interfacing is now no longer in the fold of the fabric.
Possibly add more interfacing.
Deal with adding a new fake buttonhole if required.
Make hem and the lining shorter.
Secure the hem again.
Turn right sides out, close up the opening in the sleeve lining.
Resew button/s onto sleeve
Press
Inform client, maybe check final alterations on the person. Charge them for the service
Lather rinse and repeat

Pay your rent, employees, insurance, benefits, taxes, maintenance, bookwork etc.

Most alteration tailors charge for each specific alteration. Makes the most sense as one jacket may only need sleeve changes but another may need more complex work.

 

[LGHT]

In all honesty I expect to be paid the going rate for the task at hand based on my qualification, skills, and experience.

The average salary for a tailor in my state seems to be around $15 and hour. However I've seen some who want to charge more than 3 to 4 times that amount. The key for me is finding someone who has a good amount of experience can do good work, but isn't expecting to be over paid because they fill they should. Someone around the $20-25 an hour range. I'm not purchasing $3000 suits so I don't need the best of the best just a good tailor who charges an honest fee.

 

[jcmeyer]



In all honesty I expect to be paid the going rate for the task at hand based on my qualification, skills, and experience.

The average salary for a tailor in my state seems to be around $15 and hour.  However I've seen some who want to charge more than 3 to 4 times that amount.  The key for me is finding someone who has a good amount of experience can do good work, but isn't expecting to be over paid because they fill they should.  Someone around the $20-25 an hour range.  I'm not purchasing $3000 suits so I don't need the best of the best just a good tailor who charges an honest fee. 

Ttailor just explained to you in detail why an hourly salary doesn't equate to how tailors charge for their services. If you have an amount you're willing to pay, shop around for a tailor willing to do it for that amount, then decide whether the results were to your liking. Like your attorney, a relationship with a quality tailor is worth a lot - especially if you plan to start with $50 suits.

 

[LGHT]

Ttailor just explained to you in detail why an hourly salary doesn't equate to how tailors charge for their services. If you have an amount you're willing to pay, shop around for a tailor willing to do it for that amount, then decide whether the results were to your liking. Like your attorney, a relationship with a quality tailor is worth a lot - especially if you plan to start with $50 suits.

Thanks for the tips, I've been looking around online, yelp, etc and I guess I'm just going to have to go trial and error. A lot of info I'm finding seems to either be related to women's clothing or higher end suit shops that seem to charge $200+ for to take in the sides, sleeves and length. Seems like some shops also sale suits and as a result try and keep alteration price high to encourage a perspective customer into buying theirs instead of getting yours altered. Even using the link above that's more than double the rate as most shops I've contacted.

 

[jcmeyer]



Thanks for the tips, I've been looking around online, yelp, etc and I guess I'm just going to have to go trial and error.  A lot of info I'm finding seems to either be related to women's clothing or higher end suit shops that seem to charge $200+ for to take in the sides, sleeves and length.  Seems like some shops also sale suits and as a result try and keep alteration price high to encourage a perspective customer into buying theirs instead of getting yours altered.  Even using the link above that's more than double the rate as most shops I've contacted. 

Yeah it's not that surprising that Brooks Bros would charge more than average for alterations. It's like getting your car serviced at the dealership - but you wouldn't bring your Honda to the BMW dealer.

Being in/near LA, I'd imagine you're in a good place for finding a good price to service ratio, what with the garment district and all that. But spending $200 to take a suit from "doesn't fit" to "fits" is not really that much overall.

One word of caution, however: there are golden proportional rules to garments that you don't want to break because you'll throw the balance of the entire piece out of whack. An easy one to highlight is jacket length. If you shorten a jacket to the point that the pockets are too close to the bottom of the jacket, it won't look right, even if it's now the right length for you. Let's call that distance 9" from the top of the pocket to the bottom of the coat, to be safe, but one of the tailors on here can tell you their magic number.

So just because you can do something, doesn't mean you should. You'll end up never wearing the item and then the tailoring cost will have been entirely in vain.