The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

It is a problem if it is not the look you like. To some it is a stylistic preference.

Assuming these are both cut with side bodies the work would be done on the seam that extends fro the front pocket to the hem. Along the seam that joins the side body to the fronts. The jacket would be taken in on the front only or the side body only or equally from both. I would look at the grain line to know which is best and how much to reduce. This is the easiest fix. Not a big job.

 

[XKxRome0ox]



It is a problem if it is not the look you like. To some it is a stylistic preference.
Assuming these are both cut with side bodies the work would be done on the seam that extends fro the front pocket to the hem. Along the seam that joins the side body to the fronts. The jacket would be taken in on the front only or the side body only or equally from both. I would look at the grain line to know which is best and how much to reduce. This is the easiest fix. Not a big job.

thanks a lot for the feedback

 

[Despos]



Hi and thank you in advance for comments.
I have this suit that I bought off the rack and had the sleeves altered. Tried it on today and noticed the sleeves are way out of whack (one is noticeably shorter than the other). After looking in the mirror a bit I see quite a few things relating to fit that I don't like;
Why are the pants bunching up in the back? Perhaps I should have take a photo of the seat without the jacket but they aren't tight anywhere.
The jacket fits in the shoulders. I tried one size down and it seemed to fit better everywhere with the exception of the shoulders. I think the sides need to be taken in and the length shortened. Why do the shoulders and sleeves ripple like that? Do the sleeves need to be tapered?
Any and all constructive comments will be greatly appreciated.

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There are two elements at odds here. The cut/balance of the jacket and your posture. This picture defines the issue most clearly. Jacket balance is a feature of the pattern and a perfectly proportioned mannequin is the object to be fitted on a RTW garment.

From the side view the outline of your posture is best displayed. Your upper body seems to lean towards the back, this is an erect posture. Your lower body position is referred to as "hips forward." If you use a tape measure and measure the distance from the base of your neck at the back, straight down your back to the floor and from the same point over your shoulder, over your chest and stomach to the ground, the back measure will be considerably shorter than the front measure. That is why the jacket hikes up at the lower front. The front jacket length is too short from the shoulder seam to the hem of the front part and the jacket length is too long on the back from the shoulder seam to the hem on the backpart.
If your head and shoulders were more forward the difference of front and back measure would change the other way. Longer back, shorter front.

This is what balance is all about. You need a jacket that has a shorter back and longer front to drape properly for your posture. It is the difference in length of the backpart in relation to the frontpart that create balance. The jacket is made for some one that is somewhat even front and back.
The same can be done for the trouser. The measure from the waistband of the trouser is a shorter distance to the floor in back than the front. You need a shorter back/ longer front to clean up the wrinkling on the back of the trousers.

This isn't something that can be altered in a finished garment as well as if the garment were cut thru a MTM program or was being custom made for you.

 

[Superfluous]

Chris, do you have any pictures that demonstrate a near perfect fit?

 

[PorterInjax]

Chris,

Thank you. I'm going to try and visit Nick Lopez in Houston on Saturday (no experience with him or any other tailor in Houston but the only one I could find with good reviews) and see if he can improve the look of the suit for me. I recently purchased this as a RTW. I have no need for suits other than weddings and funerals but WANT one that fits.

 

[Despos]

Porter,
If you spend some time trying on different brands you will find, as you already discovered, some will fit better and require fewer adjustments to look right. Nick will be a big help to you.

Chris

 

[Despos]



Chris, do you have any pictures that demonstrate a near perfect fit?

Every time I look into the mirror, but no pictures

 

[comrade]



Ok, I think this is what I meant. Glad to learn I'm not the only one...

+2. Yeah, but it fits well.

 

[comrade]



allaboutshoes -
I know this is a tailor's thread, but since you're asking about style stuff and you seem to want an opinion, personally I'm not a fan at all. The extremely high buttons means that there's virtually no space above the jacket, which looks weird, and the square of the buttons in the middle to me just makes you look like a robot or something.

It's "costumey"

 

[comrade]



Looking good, empty. For photos, I'd also suggest the camera be about 10-12 feet away, about chest/ribcage high, and level with the ground, not pointed up or down. It will help alleviate lens distortion especially with point-and-shoot cameras.

Great idea for a thread. Looking forward to reading more.

+1 Today is the first time I checked out this thread which you discussed last night at the Meet-Up. Excellent! Most impressive is the willingness of our professional members to critically comment on our clothing choices. Several times over the past few years I have been the beneficiary of Mr. Di Pietropaolo's (a tailor) advice via PM. Now a wider circle can share this expertise.

 

[gettoasty]

Update:

I found a tailor via recommendation from a forum member. Very nice, and will be my new spot to go.

Took the jacket to new tailor, pants to my regular. My decision...wish I took the pants to the new guy as well.

Jacket came out great, Mario via Cassara Brothers, knew exactly what was wrong. The waist was suppressed too much pulling the top (shoulder/back) and bottom (the vents) causing wrinkles and flares, respectively. May decide to have the vents closed though.

Pants came out well IMO except the actual work is horrible. The seams inside the pants do not align!! ugh. Going to bring to Mario and see what his critique is.

Overall, I like the new pants leg width and length (width increase from 7.5 to about 8 inches, and hemmed). Waist also taken in.

How is it though?


​

Excuse the first pic, did not fix the pant leg before photo.

 

[bigbucky]

My first MTM and I'm really depressed. Got a sportcoat and pants from MyTailor and the Joe was great but just doesn't look the way I thought it would.

Caveats:
I know i have a dropped right shoulder and that probably makes the fit harder. Also the shirt sleeves are too long.

The things I'm most concerned with are all the wrinkles in the pants and the dimples in the SC shoulders. I suspect the wrinkles in the back of the SC are due to that dropped shoulder.

Overall it just looks bad but I can't really explain why. I'm sure you can

 

[Louis XIV]

.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



My first MTM and I'm really depressed. Got a sportcoat and pants from MyTailor and the Joe was great but just doesn't look the way I thought it would.

For MTM the fit is good, I've seen an awful lot worse. The coat should be a bit longer though, imo, and the trousers could do with some cleaning up at the back, but it's good for a first try.

 

[bigbucky]



and the trousers could do with some cleaning up at the back, but it's good for a first try.

How is this done? Seems like all my trousers are like this. Do they just take in the extra material at the seams? Is it due to my stance?