The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[carloapellido]

I an currently having a suit made. However, it lacks some shape at the waist.

One solution I thought of is having a dart sewn here.

What are your thoughts?

 

[Despos]

It’s already there. Do you see the seam?
That seam attaches the side body to the front panel and adds shape.
Have you tried this on to see how much shape exists?

 

[carloapellido]

I tried it on back when the seams were still attached using a basting thread. I told them it lacked shape in the body and I was told to see first once the seams are sewn. This is the kind of shape that I want.

A more defined waist and consequently a flared skirt.

Would taking in the seam that connects the sidebody to the front panel achieve the shape that I want?

 

[Despos]

How to express waist suppression in the jacket depends on your body type and the tailor knowing how to cut for that body type.
Pockets are made on this jacket and now it’s very difficult to change that seam. There are limits to how much you can reduce that area without causing other issues.
You won’t know how much shape there is until you try it on. Jacket won’t look the same on a mannequin as on you.
Have seen jackets look shapeless on a mannequin and very shaped on the client and vice versa. Lots of shape on the mannequin and none on the client.

 

[carloapellido]

How to express waist suppression in the jacket depends on your body type and the tailor knowing how to cut for that body type.
Pockets are made on this jacket and now it’s very difficult to change that seam. There are limits to how much you can reduce that area without causing other issues.
You won’t know how much shape there is until you try it on. Jacket won’t look the same on a mannequin as on you.
Have seen jackets look shapeless on a mannequin and very shaped on the client and vice versa. Lots of shape on the mannequin and none on the client.

Alright. Thank you. I will try the garment on and communicate with my tailor the possible things to be changed, if there’s still any.

 

[ppk]

I got some vintage cloth and I had a jacket made in the Husbands Paris style. Would appreciate fit feedback. Thanks.

 

[Brendon]

I tried it on back when the seams were still attached using a basting thread. I told them it lacked shape in the body and I was told to see first once the seams are sewn. This is the kind of shape that I want.
View attachment 2259825
A more defined waist and consequently a flared skirt.

Would taking in the seam that connects the sidebody to the front panel achieve the shape that I want?

Talk to your tailor during the fittings phase. That is what the fittings are for. As Despos wrote approx...Too late now the pockets are sewn. This jacket in above photo does not have a significantly flared skirt. The front edge is just cut away extremely almost like a body coat.
If you want a flared skirt the jacket will accentuate the hips. As a woman's jacket must do to allow for the different body type. Why did you not have a photo with you in the jacket? It really is pointless to comment on the fit from the dummy.
If you want more waisted look to a coat from the front, then you are better off with a centre vent
Look forward to the photo of you in the jacket and after the garment has been pressed off.
Brendon

 

[DorianGreen]

I got some vintage cloth and I had a jacket made in the Husbands Paris style. Would appreciate fit feedback. Thanks.
View attachment 2259881 View attachment 2259883

It looks pretty good to me. I usually prefer double vents, but find the single one you chose absolutely coherent with the style.

 

[accidentallytarragon]

I just purchased this RTW herringbone jacket. I need to take it to the tailor to get the sleeves finished. Any advice as to any other alterations I should ask for? The vents are still tied. I think I may want to take it in at the chest a little as feels like there is quite a bit of room especially at the back. I'm showing more cuff than I'd like but that might be because my shirt is too long.

 

[ManuMICHEL]

What a great thread. You guys rule.

Just looking at the jacket in this photo. I had my tailor take it in in the waist. Then I took it back to have him take it in some more, but he argued with me for an hour He felt that taking it in any more was the wrong thing to do because it would make the vents flare, but he did it anyway. I know I have a dropped shoulder and that both shoulders stoop forward.

I appreciate your input, guys!

I'm new both to tailoring (I'm an apprentice) and to this thread(so please don't rip me apart), but for me this is my evaluation:
1. Theres a really noticeable sagging around the back part of the sleeves, this is either from the sleeve pitch and (just a tad bit) width which doesn't really make great company to the actual arm.
2. I probably would have trimmed a little of the Inside of the vent to avoid the flare. But your tailor was right, because of the "waisting change" the vents now dont lay flat but rather go "inwards in a way" and that's the problem.
3. Theres also sagging around the back, which is probably extra fabric around the shoulder blades, either "slating the CB" a bit to make it actually fit around the back, or maybe small back darts.

Again, I'm an apprentice so if theres any critique here, please let me know!

 

[JayDee90]

I'm new both to tailoring (I'm an apprentice) and to this thread(so please don't rip me apart), but for me this is my evaluation:
1. Theres a really noticeable sagging around the back part of the sleeves, this is either from the sleeve pitch and (just a tad bit) width which doesn't really make great company to the actual arm.
2. I probably would have trimmed a little of the Inside of the vent to avoid the flare. But your tailor was right, because of the "waisting change" the vents now dont lay flat but rather go "inwards in a way" and that's the problem.
3. Theres also sagging around the back, which is probably extra fabric around the shoulder blades, either "slating the CB" a bit to make it actually fit around the back, or maybe small back darts.

Again, I'm an apprentice so if theres any critique here, please let me know!

Why did you choose to respond to this specific post (given it’s from 13 yrs ago)? I hope @mossrockss isn’t still looking for assistance…

 

[Skeem1]

I commissioned some shirts from a shirtmaker in Naples for the first time and they came out pretty snug. Is there a way to alter them or is this pretty much the end-product? Would love to hear other people's experiences. I see some excess fabric in the back but not an expert at shirt alterations. Thank you in advance!

 

[ManuMICHEL]

Why did you choose to respond to this specific post (given it’s from 13 yrs ago)? I hope @mossrockss isn’t still looking for assistance…

Im sorry! I didn't see the date before posting! My mistake.

 

[ManuMICHEL]

I commissioned some shirts from a shirtmaker in Naples for the first time and they came out pretty snug. Is there a way to alter them or is this pretty much the end-product? Would love to hear other people's experiences. I see some excess fabric in the back but not an expert at shirt alterations. Thank you in advance!

Do you have a photo of the fit of those shirts? also did you ask the tailor to make it more looser or snugger when you commissioned them? Italian Tailoring is much more "Snug" than the British or American tailoring

 

[Skeem1]

Do you have a photo of the fit of those shirts? also did you ask the tailor to make it more looser or snugger when you commissioned them? Italian Tailoring is much more "Snug" than the British or American tailoring

I didn’t give him specific direction, I should have told him to go a bit looser in retrospect. Feels tight around waist and chest.