The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Aloysius16]

Even MTM usually takes a few iterations, so you may well be better off with TF's alterations. Hopefully their tailors know what they're talking about.

I would agree with this. Don’t assume that mtm or bespoke will necessarily be a big improvement, especially on your first go. There might be similar fit issues, or it may fit and you don’t like the style.

 

[philosophe]

I would listen to Despos's advice.

 

[zabo358]

I would listen to Despos's advice.

I’m leaning towards his advice, but am a bit torn as others have mentioned, a first iteration of mtm or bespoke (which is more expensive) might not solve my issues. All in I would like to stay under 3k and my wedding is in 5 months. Time is limited so I’m starting to feel the heat, especially if things don’t turn out well. I’ll update the thread this evening after go by the TF store and get their tailors opinon.

 

[brax]

I would listen to Despos's advice.

Correct. How many people have ever regretted taking Despos’s advice regarding clothing?

 

[nevaeh]

I’m leaning towards his advice, but am a bit torn as others have mentioned, a first iteration of mtm or bespoke (which is more expensive) might not solve my issues. All in I would like to stay under 3k and my wedding is in 5 months. Time is limited so I’m starting to feel the heat, especially if things don’t turn out well. I’ll update the thread this evening after go by the TF store and get their tailors opinon.

For $3k and 5 months, you should be able to get a quality MTM with several fittings in between without any problems, especially if you go with a local tailor instead of a traveling one.

 

[A-Lawson]

Even MTM usually takes a few iterations, so you may well be better off with TF's alterations. Hopefully their tailors know what they're talking about.

That depends on what needs to be altered. In this case I strongly disagree. As someone who has similar fit-issues as @zabo358 , serious (and skilled) MTM-services can easily make tiny adjustments that will make a huge difference to fix the issues here.

I would agree with this. Don’t assume that mtm or bespoke will necessarily be a big improvement, especially on your first go. There might be similar fit issues, or it may fit and you don’t like the style.

Your opinion is a bit baffling to me. Fixing a RTW garment with his fit-issues is way harder than taking the issues into account pre-production through a decently competent MTM. His issues are not complicated from a MTM point-of-view, but much more tricky when the garment is already produced.

Much of the point with a bespoke suit or MTM-program is also making/designing the garment to your preferred fit and style as well, with the help such that it also compliments you. I don't see how this is a risk-factor unless you have terrible judgment when deciding.

 

[Aloysius16]

That depends on what needs to be altered. In this case I strongly disagree. As someone who has similar fit-issues as @zabo358 , serious (and skilled) MTM-services can easily make tiny adjustments that will make a huge difference to fix the issues here.

Your opinion is a bit baffling to me. Fixing a RTW garment with his fit-issues is way harder than taking the issues into account pre-production through a decently competent MTM. His issues are not complicated from a MTM point-of-view, but much more tricky when the garment is already produced.

Much of the point with a bespoke suit or MTM-program is also making/designing the garment to your preferred fit and style as well, with the help such that it also compliments you. I don't see how this is a risk-factor unless you have terrible judgment when deciding.

I would agree only where the mtm program is adjusting a standard block which you can try on and you are largely happy with the style and the fit is pretty good already with just a few smaller adjustments required. Examples would be some of the big Italian brands - Canali, Corneliani, etc.

But if the mtm program is making something you haven’t already tried on and are 80%+ happy in its standard size form then I think it is a big risk of disappointment,

 

[Aloysius16]

I would agree only where the mtm program is adjusting a standard block which you can try on and you are largely happy with the style and the fit is pretty good already with just a few smaller adjustments required. Examples would be some of the big Italian brands - Canali, Corneliani, etc.

But if the mtm program is making something you haven’t already tried on and are 80%+ happy in its standard size form then I think it is a big risk of disappointment,

Bespoke is even less of a guarantee, I have a small number of bespoke suits from three different tailors. I consider all of them to have been a waste of money and dislike them all.

 

[A-Lawson]

Sounds like you have been very unlucky. It sounds safe to assume the tailors/MTM-services didn't keep you as a returning customer.

 

[zabo358]

Update: Went to pickup my suit from Nick Lopez and spoke with another tailor there, as Nick was gone. The tailor echoed what others on SF said; return the suit due to the poor off the rack fit. He mentioned that it could possibly take several rounds of alterations and still would will never fit perfect. Too many major adjustments need to be made and isn’t worth the hassle. I really appreciate everyone’s input on the situation. I at least have a better idea of what to look out for going forward.

If anyone has mtm suggestions in the Houston area, please send them my way as I’m back to the drawing board.

 

[stubbsj20]

Are there any modifications I could make to my next pair of trousers to minimize the bunching I am experiencing near the crotch on my right side?

 

[A-Lawson]

Are there any modifications I could make to my next pair of trousers to minimize the bunching I am experiencing near the crotch on my right side?

Increase the rise by a significant amount. It appears you are wearing them slightly higher than they are supposed to be worn. It is very common to pull your pants up too far when they sit uncomfortably low. It does not look comfortable for you, either.

 

[stubbsj20]

Increase the rise by a significant amount. It appears you are wearing them slightly higher than they are supposed to be worn. It is very common to pull your pants up too far when they sit uncomfortably low. It does not look comfortable for you, either.

Thank you for your feedback. All in all, the pants are comfortable and when I wear them, they don't feel "hiked up." The FR is 11" and the RR is 17.5". When I have tried higher rise pants in the past, I haven't been able to get a clean drape. I also recently tried a pair with a 12" FR, 18" RR and those pants had similar bunching near the crotch.

 

[Despos]

Cause may be more a sewing issue than cutting. It’s how the legs and fly were sewn.
Have seen this before and corrected it by opening the inseams and sew it again. Have to look for stretching
and how the inseam of the front aligns with the back part. Sometimes you have to shift the front up or down.

Only pattern change I would do is cut the front panels bigger. Add 3/8” at the fly about an inch above the bottom of the zipper, taper to 0 at the top of the fly. Do not want to add cloth along the side seam on the front panels. Don’t want to increase the seat measure because you want to add cloth at the specifically at center front. if you’re working with a tailor you might get this, if working online with a factory, not sure what they might do.
Very rare that a tailor cuts plain front trousers like this but I do and i like the results. This will get rid of the horizontal pull lines across the fronts. Will also allow you room when putting things in your pockets or your hands. Will allow the front pockets to lay closer to the body and not open.

 

[stubbsj20]

Cause may be more a sewing issue than cutting. It’s how the legs and fly were sewn.
Have seen this before and corrected it by opening the inseams and sew it again. Have to look for stretching
and how the inseam of the front aligns with the back part. Sometimes you have to shift the front up or down.

Only pattern change I would do is cut the front panels bigger. Add 3/8” at the fly about an inch above the bottom of the zipper, taper to 0 at the top of the fly. Do not want to add cloth along the side seam on the front panels. Don’t want to increase the seat measure because you want to add cloth at the specifically at center front. if you’re working with a tailor you might get this, if working online with a factory, not sure what they might do.
Very rare that a tailor cuts plain front trousers like this but I do and i like the results. This will get rid of the horizontal pull lines across the fronts. Will also allow you room when putting things in your pockets or your hands. Will allow the front pockets to lay closer to the body and not open.

Thank you very much for your feedback Mr. Despos!