The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

Too tight. Can barely walk. Every step feels restricted. Diagonal lines from front knees to rear of trousers.

It is the back rise at the crotch that needs to be increased, right?

Let out the crotch .75" - 1". would be surprised if there is that much outlet to work with. Let out the seat as much as possible

Are these RTW, MTM or custom made for you?

You need a bigger seat measure.

If this is RTW, buy the size that fits your seat and have the waist taken in. Don't fit the waist and think you can let out the seat.

 

[Dan Dynamic]

Let out the crotch .75" - 1". would be surprised if there is that much outlet to work with. Let out the seat as much as possible

Are these RTW, MTM or custom made for you?

You need a bigger seat measure.

If this is RTW, buy the size that fits your seat and have the waist taken in. Don't fit the waist and think you can let out the seat.

Luxire MTM, fourth iteration of a pair of trousers I sent to India.

Let out the crotch = increasing back rise at crotch?

Let out the seat = ?

If not taken too much time of yours, Despos, what do these expression mean in terms of front/back rise.

I always appreciate your input, especially from an educational point of view. Thanks in advance.

 

[TMWilson]

I work in a menswear store and have a client that purchased a suit and has since brought it back as he is unhappy with the fit. He doesn't like that the chest is collapsing on his right side, and that the fabric of the sleeve is pinching in the underarm. I've attached a photo of his left side (which sits cleanly) as well as the right side (which is presenting the problems).

Does anybody know what could be causing this, and what the potential fix would be?

Thanks in advance!

 

[A-Lawson]

I work in a menswear store and have a client that purchased a suit and has since brought it back as he is unhappy with the fit. He doesn't like that the chest is collapsing on his right side, and that the fabric of the sleeve is pinching in the underarm. I've attached a photo of his left side (which sits cleanly) as well as the right side (which is presenting the problems).

Does anybody know what could be causing this, and what the potential fix would be?

Thanks in advance!

Saw this video recently, dealing with this exact problem.

Short clarification: Sloped shoulders, risky and expensive alteration (depending on skill and the armhole must be big enough).

 

[JTrent82]

I work in a menswear store and have a client that purchased a suit and has since brought it back as he is unhappy with the fit. He doesn't like that the chest is collapsing on his right side, and that the fabric of the sleeve is pinching in the underarm. I've attached a photo of his left side (which sits cleanly) as well as the right side (which is presenting the problems).

Does anybody know what could be causing this, and what the potential fix would be?

Thanks in advance!

I'm not a tailor but I have this problem with OTR jackets and it's because of a sloped right shoulder.

 

[TMWilson]

Saw this video recently, dealing with this exact problem.

Short clarification: Sloped shoulders, risky and expensive alteration (depending on skill and the armhole must be big enough).

Thanks for the response! I was thinking that this could be the case, but I forgot to mention that he purchased another suit from us and this one didn't have the same issue. They're both our house brand, but I can't guarantee the construction is the same as we're selling suits for about $450~ USD, so they're not super consistent across styles.

Anything else you could possibly think of? Or is it just an unfortunate situation?

 

[JTrent82]

Saw this video recently, dealing with this exact problem.

Short clarification: Sloped shoulders, risky and expensive alteration (depending on skill and the armhole must be big enough).

I've actually had pretty good luck with having my alterations tailor add padding to the right shoulder. Not expensive, but obviously the armhole needs enough leeway to raise up.

 

[A-Lawson]

I've actually had pretty good luck with having my alterations tailor add padding to the right shoulder. Not expensive, but obviously the armhole needs enough leeway to raise up.

You're right, that is a "bypass" without changing the slope of the shoulder seam, unless the slope is too severe, and you'd need a stack of sponges to fix it.

Thanks for the response! I was thinking that this could be the case, but I forgot to mention that he purchased another suit from us and this one didn't have the same issue. They're both our house brand, but I can't guarantee the construction is the same as we're selling suits for about $450~ USD, so they're not super consistent across styles.

Anything else you could possibly think of? Or is it just an unfortunate situation?

By the looks of it, we're talking more than an inch that needs to be taken in at the outer edge of the shoulder seam. Impossible to know without pinning it. Most likely this would reduce the armhole by too much. Quite a severe quality-control issue, I have to say, if that is the case.

It seems to me that the collar sits pretty far away from the neck the picture. Is he wearing a scarf, while some of the scarf is under the jacket or something?

 

[Professor_3]

Quick questions for the professionals here:

Is it possible to convert Patch Pockets to JettedPockets?

I believe the patch pockets are one of the features of the Model 11 sports jacket.

 

[Professor_3]

Let out the crotch .75" - 1". would be surprised if there is that much outlet to work with. Let out the seat as much as possible

Are these RTW, MTM or custom made for you?

You need a bigger seat measure.

If this is RTW, buy the size that fits your seat and have the waist taken in. Don't fit the waist and think you can let out the seat.

Is it best to go up one size? I’ve always wondered how much the waist can be taken in.

 

[Nytailor]

Lose the battle and win the war. This jacket will never fit. either return his money or give him a new one. This way you have a chance to keep a client. Keep messing with a jacket that will never fit properly and you'll lose him

 

[Despos]

Agree with Nytailor.
Besides the fitting issue, the fused construction contributes to this and can't be improved. If you did the work to make it right you might please the customer while losing money.

 

[TMWilson]

Agree with Nytailor.
Besides the fitting issue, the fused construction contributes to this and can't be improved. If you did the work to make it right you might please the customer while losing money.

Out of curiosity, what makes you believe the jacket to be fused? I only ask because we've been told they're half-canvassed, and I can pull the separate layers apart in the chest. That being said, I understand you're incredibly knowledgeable and experienced, so am more than happy to take this opportunity to learn something if you believe it's fused.

 

[Despos]

Out of curiosity, what makes you believe the jacket to be fused? I only ask because we've been told they're half-canvassed, and I can pull the separate layers apart in the chest. That being said, I understand you're incredibly knowledgeable and experienced, so am more than happy to take this opportunity to learn something if you believe it's fused.

Entire front panel is fused and the half canvass/chest piece applied over the fusing. That's how it's done.
Half canvass is just a chest piece on a fused front.
This issue is partly the fit and part construction.

 

[oscarthewild]

Got a linen - wool Drago made up.

Feel that the pattern alignment of the front should have been more rotated. Looking the 2nd pic, if the left was rotated clockwise, and the right anti-clockwise, the vertical lines would be more vertical and the horizontal lines (1st pic) in the front would be more horizontal.

Any thing that can be done now, besides buying more fabric and getting a new front made?


What happens if I lose weight? Will this make things better?
Thank you