The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[paxonus]

Seventy-four years ago today, it was revealed that King George VI had begun wearing Royal Stewart Dress tartan dinner jackets similar to the one I wore and posted about last week. This is what the New York Times had to say about it:

View attachment 2137173

Interesting. Sounds more like something Edward VIII would have done.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Last night was our first black tie event since NYE—an annual ball in Southern California that we’ve attended a few times in the past. The state of black tie was even more relaxed than in previous years. Of about one hundred men, I'd say that five-to-ten hit all of the marks. Many others wore some type of tuxedo that missed classic details. The rest simply wore dark suits with black or grey long ties. I saw about three peak lapel jackets and a couple of shawl lapel jackets. The rest were notch lapel. A few of the men in tuxedos wore red tie/cummerbund sets. I was actually surprised to see waist coverings at all. Footwear was all over the map but I only saw a couple of patent leather shoes and definitely no opera pumps. The ladies wore everything from long dresses to outfits that would be more suited for a dance club. I received a compliment or two for my red carnation boutonnière. One guest told me that I looked like James Bond. We had a great time.

Edit: I forgot to mention that I got a dark chocolate stain on my shirt which didn’t fully come out after a couple of soaks and cold washes today. It’s almost gone but I still see it. Oof.

 

[DorianGreen]

No black tie, but a lovely smoking jacket nonetheless.

 

[Sneaky Pete]

Hi. Is this the appropriate thread on which to ask for some advice about which dinner jacket route to go down? My jacket got taken (deliberately or accidentally) at a party last year and I should replace it before it is needed. (Thus get a new suit as I won't be able to match the trousers to a new jacket).

 

[William Kazak]

I used to wear an ivory dinner jacket with shawl collar with dark wool trousers. Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca was my inspiration. A pleated white shirt with studs and a bow tie completed the look. I photographed many weddings and I got married wearing that jacket. Would you consider an ivory dinner jacket? They also come in double breasted with peak lapels.

 

[Sneaky Pete]

I used to wear an ivory dinner jacket with shawl collar with dark wool trousers. Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca was my inspiration. A pleated white shirt with studs and a bow tie completed the look. I photographed many weddings and I got married wearing that jacket. Would you consider an ivory dinner jacket? They also come in double breasted with peak lapels.

Thanks. I did think of that, but as I understand it ivory should only be worn if the event starts before the sun has set (super formal, I know). The other alternatives were going for a coloured or patterned jacket, neither of which appeal.
My wedding suit (coming up to 16 years old...) was made by a travelling HK tailor (Senzio), and I was very happy with it (and still am - took it today to get taken out a bit as it doesn't quite fit but is still a lovely suit): I am considering getting them to make one for me. I am tall and skinny, so regular fits that fit my shoulders hang loose on the body and the sleeves are often short (plus one shoulder is slightly higher). Hence bespoke appeals. A DJ in Super 120 would be about £640, which is pretty reasonable. I'll see if they have barathea (I suspect theu will).

I considered SuitSupply but the online pictures failed to convince.

The third option is to keep an eye on sellers like LuxeSwap and buy a good used one.

What's current thinking on shawl v peak? Simply a question of preference or is the fashion squarely for one of them?

 

[Faux Brummell]

Thanks. I did think of that, but as I understand it ivory should only be worn if the event starts before the sun has set (super formal, I know). The other alternatives were going for a coloured or patterned jacket, neither of which appeal.
My wedding suit (coming up to 16 years old...) was made by a travelling HK tailor (Senzio), and I was very happy with it (and still am - took it today to get taken out a bit as it doesn't quite fit but is still a lovely suit): I am considering getting them to make one for me. I am tall and skinny, so regular fits that fit my shoulders hang loose on the body and the sleeves are often short (plus one shoulder is slightly higher). Hence bespoke appeals. A DJ in Super 120 would be about £640, which is pretty reasonable. I'll see if they have barathea (I suspect theu will).

I considered SuitSupply but the online pictures failed to convince.

The third option is to keep an eye on sellers like LuxeSwap and buy a good used one.

What's current thinking on shawl v peak? Simply a question of preference or is the fashion squarely for one of them?

A white or ivory jacket is meant for warmer weather but all dinner jackets, regardless of their color, should be worn in the evening.
Ignore current fashions, black tie is timeless. 🙂🙂🙂

 

[Sneaky Pete]

A white or ivory jacket is meant for warmer weather but all dinner jackets, regardless of their color, should be worn in the evening.
Ignore current fashions, black tie is timeless. 🙂🙂🙂

Of course! But some evening events start when the sun is still up (especially in summer).

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

I was flipping through a book I've had since the mid-90s, Personal Style by James Wagenvoord (1985). Pre-internet forums, this was my introduction to the world of actually giving a damn about the classic traditions of style, grooming and overall presentation. I thought I'd share the little section on Formal Wear. No real surprises here but there might be a point or two of interest that reflect the spirit of the era.

 

[William Kazak]

I was flipping through a book I've had since the mid-90s, Personal Style by James Wagenvoord (1985). Pre-internet forums, this was my introduction to the world of actually giving a damn about the classic traditions of style, grooming and overall presentation. I thought I'd share the little section on Formal Wear. No real surprises here but there might be a point or two of interest that reflect the spirit of the era.

View attachment 2140673 View attachment 2140675 View attachment 2140677

He really sets the table on Black Tie. Excellent information.

 

[DorianGreen]

 

[Sneaky Pete]

Any thoughts on Hawes & Curtis? I thought a decent off the peg DJ would be pricey but this is quite reasonable.

Men's Black Shawl Slim Fit Dinner Suit | Hawes & Curtis

Traditional design for timeless class, this black slim-fit dinner suit exudes style and sophistication. It has been beautifully crafted from super 100s wool. These black slim-fit dinner suit trousers are half-lined and are designed with side and rear pockets. They are finished with a satin side...

www.hawesandcurtis.co.uk

 

[hollandn]

Any thoughts on Hawes & Curtis? I thought a decent off the peg DJ would be pricey but this is quite reasonable.

Men's Black Shawl Slim Fit Dinner Suit | Hawes & Curtis

Traditional design for timeless class, this black slim-fit dinner suit exudes style and sophistication. It has been beautifully crafted from super 100s wool. These black slim-fit dinner suit trousers are half-lined and are designed with side and rear pockets. They are finished with a satin side...

www.hawesandcurtis.co.uk

Can't comment on the quality at H&C but not a big fan of belt loops on dinner suit trousers. I was in Oliver Brown the other day as round the corner from my London place and stuff there's very classic and timeless and prices not too bad.

Evening Wear | Oliver Brown, London

Oliver Brown's range of evening wear will take you from the wedding to the club. Explore our line of smoking jackets, white tie occasion wear and hire options.

www.oliverbrown.org.uk

 

[Sneaky Pete]

Any thoughts on Hawes & Curtis? I thought a decent off the peg DJ would be pricey but this is quite reasonable.

Can't comment on the quality at H&C but not a big fan of belt loops on dinner suit trousers. I was in Oliver Brown the other day as round the corner from my London place and stuff there's very classic and timeless and prices not too bad.

Evening Wear | Oliver Brown, London

Oliver Brown's range of evening wear will take you from the wedding to the club. Explore our line of smoking jackets, white tie occasion wear and hire options.

www.oliverbrown.org.uk

Same re belt loops, but they have an option with side adjusters. I looked at Oliver Brown but it would be cheaper to get bespoke from the HK tailor

 

[DorianGreen]

Any thoughts on Hawes & Curtis? I thought a decent off the peg DJ would be pricey but this is quite reasonable.

Men's Black Shawl Slim Fit Dinner Suit | Hawes & Curtis

Traditional design for timeless class, this black slim-fit dinner suit exudes style and sophistication. It has been beautifully crafted from super 100s wool. These black slim-fit dinner suit trousers are half-lined and are designed with side and rear pockets. They are finished with a satin side...

www.hawesandcurtis.co.uk

Why "slim fit"? Go for a classic look with wide lapels and properly cut trousers.