The Overcoat Thread

[DonRaphael]

I'm considering having an Ulster made out of 35 oz Melton fabric. Any opinions on the look of an Ulster made out of Melton fabric? I've never seen one and not sure if the stiffer and denser Melton fabric will suit the look. I'm looking for a formal coat (mid calf), but I don't want to look like a British guard which I'm afraid the stiffer fabric might achieve.

 

[ppk]

I'm considering having an Ulster made out of 35 oz Melton fabric. Any opinions on the look of an Ulster made out of Melton fabric? I've never seen one and not sure if the stiffer and denser Melton fabric will suit the look. I'm looking for a formal coat (mid calf), but I don't want to look like a British guard which I'm afraid the stiffer fabric might achieve.

Not a fabric expert, but I love Melton and this sounds really cool and formidable. You might also want to consider the weight - it can get quite heavy.

 

[Themistocles]

Layering kind just kills for me, the typical situation is cold outside and really warm inside office, one coat is enough I don’t want to undo things, re do things…

This is the biggest issue. If I thought I was walking outside all day, I’ll put on a really chunky wool sweater, and over shirt, etc., but that’s doesn’t work in normal day to day.

 

[comrade]

Not a fabric expert, but I love Melton and this sounds really cool and formidable. You might also want to consider the weight - it can get quite heavy.

As I mention before, I had a 32 oz British Warm and an even heavier great coat from Invertere.
They are HEAVY. Especially when compared to a lighter but very tightly woven "Loden"
Balmacaan that I wore in my Chicago days.

 

[comrade]

Here's something I found online from when Brooks Bros was BROOKS BROS.:

VTG 44 Brooks Brothers " Brooks Tweed " Brown / Green Speckled Knit Shearling | eBay

Lining Color : Faux Shearling Fur Brown. Color Way : Brown / Green Speckled. Material : Wool Tweed. Size : 44 R. Pit to Pit : 25 ". (From Shoulder to Sleeve Hem). Sleeve Length : 26 ".

www.ebay.com

 

[DorianGreen]

Hugo Jacomet is a passionate sartorial author, as well as a modern dandy. His YouTube videos under the name "Sartorial Talks" are always pleasant to me, besides instructive.

Here an episode about his overcoats.

 

[DorianGreen]

Also an interesting video.

 

[DorianGreen]

A beautiful Ulster Coat, Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, heavy woollen cloth from Fox Brothers.

 

[pasadena man]

I remember reading once that there was no place else in the world like the American Midwest that had a cluster of very rich cities (by world standards) that were both very cold in the winter and very hot and humid during the summer.

For example, I can’t think of any large, non-Mediterranean, Western European city that consistently gets either as cold as a Minneapolis/Chicago winter, nor as hot as the combined heat/humidity index summers there (I’m prepared to be corrected if I’m wrong here).

One of the writer’s points on these being rich cities was the assumption that residents had the means to live elsewhere, but presumably chose not to.

 

[comrade]

I remember reading once that there was no place else in the world like the American Midwest that had a cluster of very rich cities (by world standards) that were both very cold in the winter and very hot and humid during the summer.

For example, I can’t think of any large, non-Mediterranean, Western European city that consistently gets either as cold as a Minneapolis/Chicago winter, nor as hot as the combined heat/humidity index summers there (I’m prepared to be corrected if I’m wrong here).

One of the writer’s points on these being rich cities was the assumption that residents had the means to live elsewhere, but presumably chose not to.

Many of these cities were boom towns in the late 19th through the mid 20th century with massive wealth creation a la contemporary Silicon Valley, where I live. Chicago and Minneapolis and smaller
cities like Columbus, Ohio remain very wealthy. I lived in Chicago for over 15 years and many of
the native born wealthy couldn't think of living anywhere else but often had second or third homes
in warm places and/or even colder places for the skiing.

 

[Zerase]

I remember reading once that there was no place else in the world like the American Midwest that had a cluster of very rich cities (by world standards) that were both very cold in the winter and very hot and humid during the summer.

For example, I can’t think of any large, non-Mediterranean, Western European city that consistently gets either as cold as a Minneapolis/Chicago winter, nor as hot as the combined heat/humidity index summers there (I’m prepared to be corrected if I’m wrong here).

One of the writer’s points on these being rich cities was the assumption that residents had the means to live elsewhere, but presumably chose not to.

Europe is so small that we don't really have those inland climates that you speak of. Only ones I can think of that come close are cities near alpine region. Vienna, München, Switzerland et.c.

 

[comrade]

Nothing quite like starting a car that has been parked on the street when the temp
dipped to -15 F (-26 C.)over night. I did it many times when I lived in Chicago and
upsate Ndew York. BTW, the car heater is useless untill the engine warms up.
Another reason why the locals in the Upper Mid-west are into ice fishing and snowmobiling.
Terrain is mostly too flat for skiing, other than Cross-Country (Nordic), a sport I became
addicted to because it required more stamina then technique.

 

[comrade]

Europe is so small that we don't really have those inland climates that you speak of. Only ones I can think of that come close are cities near alpine region. Vienna, München, Switzerland et.c.

Not in the Mid-West, but Montreal, Toronto, and Ottawa qualify as very cold wealthy cities.

 

[clee1982]

where were you in upstate, I remember it occasionally (as in every few years) it would hit -20C but -26C, don't really recall it (though once we had snow on graduation date)

 

[St1X]

For example, I can’t think of any large, non-Mediterranean, Western European city that consistently gets either as cold as a Minneapolis/Chicago winter, nor as hot as the combined heat/humidity index summers there (I’m prepared to be corrected if I’m wrong here).

Western Europe is just a small part of Europe and it is not correct to compare it to the entire US, which in itself is bigger than the whole EU. Eastern Europe has large cities (albeit not wealthy) where summers are super hot and winters are super cold