The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

[Sockett&Bones]

@dieworkwear

Based on your previous musings, tan shoes should largely be matched to lighter colored trousers, as to not create a significant contrast from one's outfit, pulling the eyes down. In trying to find the middle ground between business/conservative suiting and full-blown dandy with purple pants, would you say tan shoes really only go with khaki/cream and light gray in CM? Would you say tan shoes are a niche piece of footwear that probably does not belong in most mens' closets?

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear

Based on your previous musings, tan shoes should largely be matched to lighter colored trousers, as to not create a significant contrast from one's outfit, pulling the eyes down. In trying to find the middle ground between business/conservative suiting and full-blown dandy with purple pants, would you say tan shoes really only go with khaki/cream and light gray in CM? Would you say tan shoes are a niche piece of footwear that probably does not belong in most mens' closets?

I think it's more about the total outfit than the pants. Sorry in advance to people who have prob read this a million times, but here is my idea on tan shoes.

I think they look bad when guys wear them with dark worsted suits because the shoes shine out like a beacon, and the viewer's focus should instead be on the V-shaped intersection formed by your jacket, shirt, and tie. IMO, when the focus is more up top, this creates a more natural look for a classic tailored outfit. So this is bad:

The same idea applies to sport coats. Here Dan Roan (left) is wearing a navy sport coat with grey trousers and tan shoes (IMO, this is bad). Lance Armstrong (right) is wearing a very similar outfit, but just with mid-brown shoes (IMO, good). The reason, again, is that the outfit as a whole looks a lot more harmonious on the right. Everything comes together and no single piece shines out. So your eye is naturally focused on the person's face rather than being distracted by some bright, unusual element in their outfit

So instead of thinking of just pants + shoes, I think it's more about how the total outfit comes together and avoiding that "shiny object at my feet" effect. Let's do suits first since we started with suits. I think tan shoes work with lighter-colored suits such as dove gray. This is basically the same as a mid-gray suit worn with mid-brown shoes, but the entire outfit is lightened up a few notches

I also think they work with light-colored sport coats because the color of the sport coat balances out the shoes. Here are some examples showing how a light-colored sport coat with tan shoes can be worn with trousers in increasing levels of darkness -- stone, mid-gray, and then dark blue.

You can also do it if the outfit has a strong summer vibe. But this doesn't easily fall into a rule, it's just how the outfit feels and looks. Still, here we can see how the shoes don't drag the eye downward; they are part of a cohesive whole

Here are some examples side-by-side. Photos on the left drag the eye downward; photos on the right show a harmonious outfit. On the right, your eyes are always kept up top on the person's face. (This "rule" is just for classic menswear not all aesthetics.)

Some outfits cry out for tan shoes. For example, I think tan shoes work really well in the last photo above, where Greg is wearing a cream-checked sport coat with a white shirt and stone-colored pants. If he was wearing very dark brown shoes, they might stand out for a similar reason.

But most men don't have these sorts of suits and sport coats. Instead of dove grey suits, they prob have navy or dark grey. Instead of lighter colored sport coats, they prob have navy and dark brown. Which is why I think most men are better off not buying tan shoes. If they buy tan shoes, it would be good to expand the rest of your wardrobe in similar directions. Make sure you have the suits and sport coats you'd need to work with tan footwear.

 

[odub]

I'm also curious about this brand, Bronson, and their gurkha shorts: https://bronsonshop.com/products/no...n1=Olive&option2=No. 6&variant=16248757878843

I did some more digging, and it seems like the brand WWII Impressions inc is the best quality and most expensive of the American repro brands, with jackets in the 200 - 300 USD. Would be interesting to know how they compare to the Japanese...

 

[UrbanComposition]

Do you recommend sizing up a bit for a silk shirt compared to a cotton dress shirt for a more relaxed look? If so, all around including shoulder width?

No, he sizes it fitted but not tight. I’m comparison, my 100 Hands were almost too tight. Ask Moeen for best results, but he has a good idea for a classic fit. If you want roomier, he may be able to accommodate you.

 

[Iskander]

Hello @dieworkwear - do you the mill that makes these cloths? (from your new article)

 

[dieworkwear]

Hello @dieworkwear - do you the mill that makes these cloths? (from your new article)
View attachment 1779011

Loro Piana Mare

Loro Piana Mare - Hall Madden

http://hallmadden.com

hallmadden.smugmug.com

If your tailor can't buy direct, Tissura carries some LP wool-blends

Loro Piana — Company Founded in 1924: Worsted Wool, Cashmere and Storm System Fabric

Shop for Loro Piana Fabric online at Tissura store ✓ Collection 2019 ✓ Solid and patterned ✓ Easy & secure ✓ Fast worldwide delivery ✓ Since 1998 ✓ Order now

tissura.com

 

[schraiber]

I think it's more about the total outfit than the pants. Sorry in advance to people who have prob read this a million times, but here is my idea on tan shoes.

I think they look bad when guys wear them with dark worsted suits because the shoes shine out like a beacon, and the viewer's focus should instead be on the V-shaped intersection formed by your jacket, shirt, and tie. IMO, when the focus is more up top, this creates a more natural look for a classic tailored outfit. So this is bad:

View attachment 1778933 View attachment 1778932


The same idea applies to sport coats. Here Dan Roan (left) is wearing a navy sport coat with grey trousers and tan shoes (IMO, this is bad). Lance Armstrong (right) is wearing a very similar outfit, but just with mid-brown shoes (IMO, good). The reason, again, is that the outfit as a whole looks a lot more harmonious on the right. Everything comes together and no single piece shines out. So your eye is naturally focused on the person's face rather than being distracted by some bright, unusual element in their outfit


View attachment 1778935


So instead of thinking of just pants + shoes, I think it's more about how the total outfit comes together and avoiding that "shiny object at my feet" effect. Let's do suits first since we started with suits. I think tan shoes work with lighter-colored suits such as dove gray. This is basically the same as a mid-gray suit worn with mid-brown shoes, but the entire outfit is lightened up a few notches

View attachment 1778936


I also think they work with light-colored sport coats because the color of the sport coat balances out the shoes. Here are some examples showing how a light-colored sport coat with tan shoes can be worn with trousers in increasing levels of darkness -- stone, mid-gray, and then dark blue.


View attachment 1778937 View attachment 1778938 View attachment 1778939


You can also do it if the outfit has a strong summer vibe. But this doesn't easily fall into a rule, it's just how the outfit feels and looks. Still, here we can see how the shoes don't drag the eye downward; they are part of a cohesive whole

View attachment 1778940


Here are some examples side-by-side. Photos on the left drag the eye downward; photos on the right show a harmonious outfit. On the right, your eyes are always kept up top on the person's face. (This "rule" is just for classic menswear not all aesthetics.)


View attachment 1778942 View attachment 1778943


Some outfits cry out for tan shoes. For example, I think tan shoes work really well in the last photo above, where Greg is wearing a cream-checked sport coat with a white shirt and stone-colored pants. If he was wearing very dark brown shoes, they might stand out for a similar reason.

But most men don't have these sorts of suits and sport coats. Instead of dove grey suits, they prob have navy or dark grey. Instead of lighter colored sport coats, they prob have navy and dark brown. Which is why I think most men are better off not buying tan shoes. If they buy tan shoes, it would be good to expand the rest of your wardrobe in similar directions. Make sure you have the suits and sport coats you'd need to work with tan footwear.

Man I absolutely love that khaki suit that is in the top right of the 2x2 grid at the end.

 

[gdl203]

Loro Piana Mare

Loro Piana Mare - Hall Madden

http://hallmadden.com

hallmadden.smugmug.com

If your tailor can't buy direct, Tissura carries some LP wool-blends

Loro Piana — Company Founded in 1924: Worsted Wool, Cashmere and Storm System Fabric

Shop for Loro Piana Fabric online at Tissura store ✓ Collection 2019 ✓ Solid and patterned ✓ Easy & secure ✓ Fast worldwide delivery ✓ Since 1998 ✓ Order now

tissura.com

Which AFAIK is the same cloth as VBC Safari (exclusive to Gladson)

Safari - Book Five of Gladsons Compass Collections

Different color options

 

[mossrockss]

Which AFAIK is the same cloth as VBC Safari (exclusive to Gladson)

Safari - Book Five of Gladsons Compass Collections

Different color options

Greg, will there be Rota pre-orders for S/S this year?
I always admire the W/S/L trousers and think maybe this is my year!

 

[ojaw]

I'm also curious about this brand, Bronson, and their gurkha shorts: https://bronsonshop.com/products/non-stock-mens-british-army-model-khaki-gurkha-bermuda-shorts?option1=Olive&option2=No. 6&variant=16248757878843

Bronson is a China-based manufacturer that seems to be well regarded in a number of jacket forums in a cost to quality ratio. Don’t know about the rest of their line.

 

[jbarwick]

I feel like the guy in the dove gray suit with suede shoes would have a similar issue as his shoes in the pic look orange and draw my eyes to them. Maybe it is the camera making this appearance.

 

[jaaz16]

^ I tend to agree, but it's a bit of a grey area, right? Or a continuum. It still draws your eyes down more than the pictures of Greg but it's not as sharp a contrast as the others.

 

[dieworkwear]

I feel like the guy in the dove gray suit with suede shoes would have a similar issue as his shoes in the pic look orange and draw my eyes to them. Maybe it is the camera making this appearance.

Yes, I agree the color is a little too warm, but that's the most convenient photo I have of a person in a dove gray suit with tan shoes.

 

[deanandrewj]

Any recommendations for shorts with a similar cut to Baggies? I know Derek wrote about the now-defunct Joyce shorts having a similar vibe a while back. Most shorts I see have more of a straight cut that hug the thigh instead of the looser, breezier cut you get with the baggies. In the market for some casual shorts to wear with camp collars and slip ons or sneakers, I’m down for anything (fatigue style, cords, linen, etc).

 

[ojaw]

Any recommendations for shorts with a similar cut to Baggies? I know Derek wrote about the now-defunct Joyce shorts having a similar vibe a while back. Most shorts I see have more of a straight cut that hug the thigh instead of the looser, breezier cut you get with the baggies. In the market for some casual shorts to wear with camp collars and slip ons or sneakers, I’m down for anything (fatigue style, cords, linen, etc).

Leo Köhler makes shorts out of the wonderful German 'moleskin' that I find very comfortable. They're cargoes, but I remove those pockets. EBay is my source, and don't forget the umlaut!