The Official Artisanal "streetwear" footwear (boots, shoes, sandals) thread (Guidi, CCP, Augusta, M.

[LA Guy]

Sinnedk I get what you wanted to do but simply saying that you think Deepti is boring and you don't like it will not start a discussion. You need evidence to support your opinion, especially on forums like SZ, where simply replying 'lol' will not fly.

The guy that said you're uniformed was kinda right. You said Deepti is an extension of CCP (look who is an 'extension' of the Continues Collection), and thats largely true since she was the pattern maker for CCP and basically stuck with the same patterns she originally created (hence faust's comment). But, she has also experimented with new techniques. Glass lapels, zig zag zipper/seams, silver infused fabric; probs others but I don't follow the brand. Wether you like what she's produced or not, it's not boring. Repetitive, maybe.

SZ would be better without Faust though. He's a toxic asset

I haven't read the exchange, so I'm not going to comment on it. I do think that single line "This is boring" comments are generally dumb, on any forum. On Styleforum. we would never ban someone on that basis alone, but the collective response would be a very well merited "meh". That unsupported type of statement is not a conversation starter. I don't really understand the rules of SZ. Maybe it's explicitly or implicitly agreed that you don't post unless you are going to post a detailed critique. I suppose that that would be fair enough, but to me, at least, it would make for a very stilted conversation.

I don't have a particularly strong opinion on Deepti's work, one way or the other.

Perfectos, not double riders. "What I am afraid most of is one of those basic bitches trying to find communion in the fact that both of us are technically wearing perfectos."

WTF?

I wrote a (vaguely funny) line in the journal about double riders being the standard uniform of college co-eds. But the above, in the context of the conversation of SZ, seems completely earnest and devoid of any humor whatsoever.

 

[coolron]

New Guidi model (5305N) on Pnp's blog

 

[sinnedk]



This is exactly what I was thinking. Fine, it's her skills that defined the 2010 collection (and probably others). But the silhouettes and the work is and has been attributed to CCP for the longest time. The 1st collection gets a pass and she is doing something interesting by incorporating silver with the fabric. The 2nd? I know the inspiration is the movie Crash but it's just lackluster. In my opinion, it comes out as the CCP 2010 version 2. Same form with just crash seams. Probably if she moved away from the patterns and silhouettes used with CCP, the 2nd collection would then be disassociated from CCP.

I am on the same page here and that's what leads to my comments.

 

[sinnedk]



I haven't read the exchange, so I'm not going to comment on it.  I do think that single line "This is boring" comments are generally dumb, on any forum.  On Styleforum. we would never ban someone on that basis alone, but the collective response would be a very well merited "meh".  That unsupported type of statement is not a conversation starter.  I don't really understand the rules of SZ.  Maybe it's explicitly or implicitly agreed that you don't post unless you are going to post a detailed critique.  I suppose that that would be fair enough, but to me, at least, it would make for a very stilted conversation.  

I don't have a particularly strong opinion on Deepti's work, one way or the other.

i understand what you are saying but I do think that sometimes it just takes one line of thought to start a conversation. As far as SZ is concerned I prefer to not be there so I told him to ban me. Overall the conversations there were boring and didn't spark much of an exchange.

On the other hand, here on SF we are having a pretty good convo about all this.

 

[nahneun]



I am on the same page here and that's what leads to my comments.

seriously, stop making posts like these and just use the thumbs. it serves the exact same purpose without cluttering up the thread with pointless "I AM IN FULL AGREEMENT WITH THIS POST AND MUST POST ONE FOR EACH AND EVERY POST MADE THAT I AGREE WITH"

and before you say anything, YES, YOU ACTUALLY DO THIS.

 

[sinnedk]



seriously, stop making posts like these and just use the thumbs. it serves the exact same purpose without cluttering up the thread with pointless "I AM IN FULL AGREEMENT WITH THIS POST AND MUST POST ONE FOR EACH AND EVERY POST MADE THAT I AGREE WITH"

and before you say anything, YES, YOU ACTUALLY DO THIS.

You and Faust should hang out.

 

[nahneun]

there is not a single facepalm meme on the internet that can accurately reflect how hard i need to facepalm right now.

 

[sinnedk]



there is not a single facepalm meme on the internet that can accurately reflect how hard i need to facepalm right now.

I completely agree with this.

 

[sinnedk]



there is not a single facepalm meme on the internet that can accurately reflect how hard i need to facepalm right now.

Keep going.

Just to point out you are doing something annoying as well. You derail a conversation and jump at a person for something inane just because it bothers you. Now rather than do that why not ignore and move on to keep on topic and not disturb others?

 

[nyarkies]



What she's done with the "crash" seams is a beginning of an experiment. It's what patternmakers do. Patternmaking is equivalent to architecture in the sense that a creator must build from pieces until it becomes whole. And honestly, for anyone that knows anything about clothing production, those pieces are unbelievably difficult to understand how she was able to have them produced. And perhaps that doesn't translate well to the layperson. I see that collection as a test for her producers more than anything else.

And maybe knows how far she can push her designs.

I don't know jack about patternmaking and coming from a layperson's perspective, I don't see it is as complicated as LEB's patterns where he has to make it in-house. The crash design is used where normally you would find a straight line for a seam. From my perspective, you're just replacing straight seams with crooked ones. As for LEB, I do remember people (including myself) not that amazed upon first seeing his work. It felt like just some random pieces sewn together. You then get to know how it was done that he didn't want to use the traditional way of creating patterns. Instead, he based his pattern from draping a piece of cloth on a human figure. From that point on, there was better appreciation of his work.

Maybe if there was a better explanation or documentation showing how unique or difficult the process she did with the collection, then more people can appreciate her work.

 

[eloq]

the thing about LEB's work is there are many problems that are unfortunately part of the design. I have yet to see something from LEB that fits well (TO ME, apart from leather jackets which works for me), every single garment and now footwear has 'extra' material especially in joints (knees, elbows). His ethos of course treats these deformities as part of the design and it will work well for some people Im sure. Because of the nature of his work he cannot possibly make garments that fit right against the body AND fulfil his unique ethos of pattern drafting (it will take WAY TOO MUCH time).

Deepti makes tailored garments with unconventional seam work that fits well against the body. Sewing a zig zag seam instead of a straight one on the centre back, raglan and some other seams, of a tailored blazer AND getting the entire garment to actually fit like a tailored jacket is EXTREMELY difficult and takes a lot of trial and error.

LEBs work seems complicated at first glance, and it is mind you, but after getting the prototype done..its does not take a lot of skill to produce his garments. Deepti's production takes A LOT more skill even in production, sewing zig zags neatly and matching correctly is not easy.

Long story short. I would say, although the crash seam looks tacky to me on some garments, Deepti's work while not seeming complicated actually takes a highly skilled person to produce. The mark of a good pattern cutter is to make garments that fit well, which is why the best piece of pattern cutting I have seen on a garment is the CCP Dead-End Jacket. Getting a tailored jacket body with a vent made in one-piece of fabric with overlocking while making it look like a regular 3 panel jacket is just outstanding pattern drafting. Sleeves are also in a single piece too.

On a design aspect, its all relative so Ill leave that to you to decide.

 

[merz]

odd to see drizzly banned. he has become the face of sz in its autumn years.

 

[hendrix]



Perfectos, not double riders. "What I am afraid most of is one of those basic bitches trying to find communion in the fact that both of us are technically wearing perfectos."

This is like the exact opposite feeling I get. I get really happy when some non-internets person has something in common with my clothes. Every time it happens we look at each other and end up giving a small nod and a fist-bump or something. Particularly if it's at a bar.

 

[ClambakeSkate]

LEB's work is Basic Draping 101. Anyone who's ever done any draping gets it. I appreciate it, but to me it's much less innovative than Deepti's work. And don't get me started on unapersona or whatever ridiculous name it's going by these days... All of that anatomic seaming has been done to death at this point by these companies. It's boring.

Deepti's work requires a huge amount of perfection and precision that is possible in industries where things are made by machines, but everyone seems to forget that clothes, even clothes made by companies which don't emphasize "made by hand", are in fact, made by human beings. Hang out in the alden thread for a bit and every few pages there will be some rich old man complaining about how his handmade shoes have a stitch slightly out-of-place and he feels entitled to a full $800 refund for this horrific tragedy. I've only seen Deepti's work in person at l'eclaireur and darklands, but both stores had enough stock for me to say that it's impressive that amongst all of that complex work I didn't see a single stitch out of place. And CCP excelled at precision too. But not to the level that Deepti is requiring of her production at this time. That's why the future looks interesting. And why CCP hasn't done anything new. And why CCP wasn't that great before Deepti started there.

LEB is a painter with his work. Little errors will go completely unnoticed because the broad strokes are in the right place. Deepti's is more like a the work of a surgeon. Both designers have a different set of skills and they can both be admired for different reasons. I don't particularly like either of their work (nor can I afford it) but I admire it just the same, and Deepti's more so, because I'm interested in what she can do next.

 

[nyarkies]

@eloq and @ClambakeSkate

Thanks for the input. I do remember the stitching being even on the crash seams. As far as matching the patterns of the crash seams, can that not be reversed engineered (for the lack of a better term on my part)? Meaning, create the garment with regular seams then draft the crash seams on the garment itself and take it apart to create the final pattern from it? Will that make the process of matching the seams easier?