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SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

DorianGreen

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Has jacket and vest but no pants, someone can probably use this in some way, though the herringbone is on the too subtle side (i.e. more orphan jacket looking)


Yes, definitely looking as an orphaned part of a suit. Maybe one could try a combination with blue or black trousers.

Nice style, by the way.
 

sipang

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I'd wear some kind of brown pants before blue ones with that but black is the way to go. And it you're leaning into the 70s thing a bit black pants might be the best and most versatile option.
 

clee1982

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Vintage or not, can be completely crap quality good enough for cosplay



 

sipang

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First one looks nice, still haven't found my bottle green velvet jacket. Unforgiving shoulders on some of the vintage stuff though, 16.5" on a 42 ouch
 

clee1982

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How much are you willing to pay, I think a lot RTW bottle green peak lapel velvet jacket out there (RLPL, Thom Sweeney, Tom Ford), though even on sale I think were all still at least $1k
 

sipang

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vesteblouson-francesco-smalto-en-velours-vert-30821476-1_2.jpg

You know what... I actually have that exact one somewhere, bit too trim and close-fitting for my liking iirc, I think I want something slightly loungier and shabbier like a some piece of worn-out upholstery.

Someone should grab that jacket though, the Smalto notch (this looks like the real deal actual Smalto notch and not some generic fishmouth) is pretty cool and eccentric and you're not likely to find it on any other RTW stuff. And it's made by Caruso.

(Not related to the seller either even though I sound like a salesman)

How much are you willing to pay, I think a lot RTW bottle green peak lapel velvet jacket out there (RLPL, Thom Sweeney, Tom Ford), though even on sale I think were all still at least $1k

Yeah I remember a nice old RLPL one a while ago, tbh I don't really know what I'm looking for exactly and it's not something I desperately need... I might even prefer a wide notch lapel hmmm... Think I'm just going to keep on eye out for old Gucci and YSL for now.
 
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clee1982

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PRL might have done wide notch a while back when they still had Garrison fit

Edit: on the high side but looks cool

 
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sipang

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Black suit white boots looks very HL, feels like it should be something like a mesh tank or smthg instead of a plain tee though, would also help break down the silhouette


It's interesting seeing some CM people slowly coming around black tailoring now that the lines are blurrier than ever. Get those unwearable black suits on deep discount before the other side fully realize what they slept on.
 
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accordion

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Trying on Dries DB jacket from this season, is this salvageable? I'm wearing the biggest size and the waist feels too flared and too long, sizing down makes the shoulders/upper arm too tight:

PXL_20230914_122328850~2.jpg
 

kindofyoung

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I feel like a broken record in how many times it feels like I've said this before but:

I'm pretty confident you could find this exact thing but better in a thrift shop or vintage store, not even taking the financial savings into account.

I appreciate the fact that not everyone has the time or interest to go through multiple thriftshops every week, but atleast the way thrift shop selections look in Sweden, I could realistically spend 5 minutes or less per store if I'm looking for some specific tailoring. And if that's still not feasible, maybe there's too much of a distance between all the different shops to keep it a short matter: that's what more curated vintage shops, instagram and etsy is for.

And sure there's a point to be made that perhaps you're willing to pay the premium for a brand you like for resale value, gorgeous fabrics and a perfect fit. But if you're going to have to pay to have it tailored regardless, two of those aspects are irrelevant anyway, and wrt fabrics it's not like the nice kind is a new invention either so you can find that too.

I just find it mindboggling sometimes the amounts people on spend on "SWD tailoring" that literally looks exactly like 70s and 80s stuff I've thrifted for next to nothing.
 

accordion

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I don't have time to thrift, the stock in thrift stores around me isn't the same as near you, the amount of effort it would take to find anything decent is enormous. I also don't want a used suit. Most importantly I'm merely asking about the fit not how to shop for suits.
 

kindofyoung

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Sorry, I should have clarified that although my post was in response to yours, it was meant more as a general rant about the thread/subject at large.

To answer your question: The fit is bad, don't spend designer money on stuff that fits bad.
 

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