SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

[whorishconsumer]

@whorishconsumer How long are we talking? How does it wear compared to your Italian stuff?


I dug up some lighter shouldered sport coats I hadn't worn in a pretty long while and the stuff looks really off to me, I guess I leaned into the extended shoulder thing more heavily than I thought. Can't even imagine of over the top my a-bit-wider coats and sc must look to ppl outside of the bubble (everyone)

A good 3+" longer than my Armoury jackets, for example. It's definitely a different look than Armoury, Rota, et al.

The shoulders are both padded and extended, and it's a 4x1 double-breasted, so there's some exaggeration. But I think my main hurdle is just that I've been conditioned toward fits accommodating men of more average height than I. Everything feels more exaggerated on my frame. So, an elongated, wider db that might look perfectly (trendy) fine on someone else feels kinda like clown-clothing on me, even though the cut is to my frame.

Really like the fit of the trousers, though.

 

[hendrix]

A good 3+" longer than my Armoury jackets, for example. It's definitely a different look than Armoury, Rota, et al.

The shoulders are both padded and extended, and it's a 4x1 double-breasted, so there's some exaggeration. But I think my main hurdle is just that I've been conditioned toward fits accommodating men of more average height than I. Everything feels more exaggerated on my frame. So, an elongated, wider db that might look perfectly (trendy) fine on someone else feels kinda like clown-clothing on me, even though the cut is to my frame.

Really like the fit of the trousers, though.

it sounds perfect tbh

 

[OccultaVexillum]

Who/where would I look to find a slouchy, sort of unstructured blazer in a very trad fabric like a prince of wales or herringbone.
Single or DB, 2-button, pref low button stance.
Only thing that comes to mind is Dries?

 

[sipang]

@OccultaVexillum So a bit like @hendrix Studio Nicholson (?) blazer? Or do you mean something in tweed/cashmere etc?

A good 3+" longer than my Armoury jackets, for example. It's definitely a different look than Armoury, Rota, et al.

The shoulders are both padded and extended, and it's a 4x1 double-breasted, so there's some exaggeration. But I think my main hurdle is just that I've been conditioned toward fits accommodating men of more average height than I. Everything feels more exaggerated on my frame. So, an elongated, wider db that might look perfectly (trendy) fine on someone else feels kinda like clown-clothing on me, even though the cut is to my frame.

Really like the fit of the trousers, though.

I get what you mean, my DBs that are actually my size always feel a bit skirty at first, to be fair the Armoury/italian and Italian-inspired stuff generally run shorter even in its non bastardized form.

 

[OccultaVexillum]

Uhhh not really like that Studio Nicholson one (i think it's madras?). I actually really dislike the cut on their blazer.

Tweed/Cashmere is probably a better description, and maybe "unstrcutred" is the wrong term, lightly padded shoulders wouldn't be bad.
It's hard to find anything like what I am after so it's hard to post examples.

This kind of cut:

loose, a bit elongated.

 

[thatboyo]

^Adret may work for your needs. I've been wanting to try their DB but they only take orders if you go in store in London.

 

[OccultaVexillum]

Yeah they take orders via email too but I've asked about their blazers and they are in the 3,000 GBP realm.
I'm trying to stick under 500USD

 

[kashmir]

vintage BB or RL in longer length? RTW back then could cover so much variation in height

if vintage BB, look for the ones without front darts. those are the real gems

 

[true.to.size]

Auralee had this one a few years back, modeled by Penanceroyaltea...

 

[OccultaVexillum]

Yeah that’s nice, unfortunately Auralee very very rarely fits me how it should.
I’m an XL and even their looser fit size 5s are a bit of a weird fit

 

[OccultaVexillum]

Maybe this? Too trad?

Wool Sport Jacket - The Anthology x JKF Man Harris Tweed — The Anthology

100% wool Designed in collaboration with Jamie Ferguson, aka JKF Man, the iconic menswear photographer. This is a piece that gives a feeling representative of the colouring Jamie depicted from the Scottish Highlands growing up. Exclusively woven by the one and only Harris Tweed for this specific

theanthology.net

 

[clee1982]

Anthology is definitely not trad and definitely not oversize fit either

 

[Voidoid]

Anthology looks like typical modern CM, while Dries looks like something 90s inspired, but more on the side " i'm wearing the wrong size " like sleeves is super long.
I have a friend who is basically dressing in thrift shops and most of his jackets kinda looks like that. From what I understand he never wear his own size but just seeking this overall look.

 

[clee1982]

Anthology is definitely modern CM, though their look is a bit different than the “everything” soft crowd, their default shoulder got a slight roped and is extended (rather than nature shoulder and waterfall)

 

[sipang]

Maybe this? Too trad?

Wool Sport Jacket - The Anthology x JKF Man Harris Tweed — The Anthology

100% wool Designed in collaboration with Jamie Ferguson, aka JKF Man, the iconic menswear photographer. This is a piece that gives a feeling representative of the colouring Jamie depicted from the Scottish Highlands growing up. Exclusively woven by the one and only Harris Tweed for this specific

theanthology.net

Cloth aside this looks pretty far off from what you described, broken record here but the cut and long lapels (with a hint of belly maybe) 2-buttons of the Dries jacket mostly reminds me of older Canali/Canali-made (Lanvin etc)/Belvest/Cantarelli etc, and really most of the white-label stuff made for Italian stores probably around the 90s or so like @Voidoid said. I can look around if you're not in a rush. The long body is the tricky bit, older stuff runs longer to begin with but maybe not enough, then again the Dries blazer looks like it's a one size up at least which could make up the extra length.