SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

[Halibut]

@Halibut interesting that you mention Laurini—what's even going on with LUC these days?

I'm not really sure but the most recent season seems to be leaning heavily into the post-apocalyptic sort of distressed look that he explored in a more regimented sense with his wrong tension knits. (video on https://www.labelunderconstruction.com/) I remember him saying in an interview that he likes how machines can make mistakes and he likes to explore the results of mistakes. I think this is an important part of sustainable fashion, reducing waste, and finding ways to embrace the imperfect, which is what this thread is all about.

CM is, in essence, a quest for a certain sort of perfection. Any notion of personal touch and sprezzatura fits into the mindset of CM because it's regimented and rooted in an intentionality. You start with something, say a traditionally tailored suit, and put a twist on it versus the opposite of starting with a personal vision and adapting tailoring to fit that. The strength of designers like GBS and CCP may be in the integration of these two parts of the spectrum. They both learned traditional tailoring but I think the endgame was always to use that tailoring to realize the personal, rather than to display the highest ideal of traditional tailoring.

 

[conqueror]

might not be to everyone’s tastes, but i’m planning on wearing this to a (australian summer) wedding and thought it would be relevant for the thread.

- cabourn navy ripstop “suit” (peak blazer + pleated high rise chino)
- cabourn navy braces (sadly the leather accents are black and not brown, but i'm not too bothered)
- poszetka shantung tie
- rrl chambray shirt
- trickers ilkley

will definitely steam the pants (creasing at the top is pleats) and perhaps hem, too. i'm 186cm tall and the inseam is probably the longest i've experienced on a pair of non-denim trousers.

edit: the blazer/trousers are identical in person, so not sure why they appear to be a slightly different shade in the photo.

 

[double00]

in japan , are *setups* typically bought / worn as matching or are they often orphaned or ?

 

[FlyingMonkey]

in japan , are *setups* typically bought / worn as matching or are they often orphaned or ?

Both - the point is that the piece are made to be worn either together or apart, so there's no such thing as 'orphan' pieces.

 

[oulipien]

Anyway here’s some SWDish tailoring (Deepti long jacket and pants):

 

[saskatoonjay]

Anyway here’s some SWDish tailoring (Deepti long jacket and pants):

View attachment 1751784

The shoes are beautiful.

 

[Epaulet]

might not be to everyone’s tastes, but i’m planning on wearing this to a (australian summer) wedding and thought it would be relevant for the thread.

- cabourn navy ripstop “suit” (peak blazer + pleated high rise chino)
- cabourn navy braces (sadly the leather accents are black and not brown, but i'm not too bothered)
- poszetka shantung tie
- rrl chambray shirt
- trickers ilkley

will definitely steam the pants (creasing at the top is pleats) and perhaps hem, too. i'm 186cm tall and the inseam is probably the longest i've experienced on a pair of non-denim trousers.

edit: the blazer/trousers are identical in person, so not sure why they appear to be a slightly different shade in the photo.

I think this is fantastic. I really like the shantung tie with the casual shirt.

 

[oulipien]

The shoes are beautiful.

thanks! A special order from ma+; they aren’t normally made in men’s sizes

 

[fauxpatina]

Has anybody here tried out the Continental Suiting collection from Mister Freedom? Seems like it’d be the perfect choice for denim heads and vintage/repo fans (myself included). Since this is SWD, I thought I’d ask y’all.

 

[double00]

Both - the point is that the piece are made to be worn either together or apart, so there's no such thing as 'orphan' pieces.

i understand the point of separates , i'm asking how folks in japan actually buy / wear the separates .

i suppose in a way i'm asking the difference between japanese mingei pottery and american mingei as a type . it's rather not about the thing itself (obv both happen) but the transliterated meaning and the outcome of expression .

i'm skeptical of matching iow

 

[FlyingMonkey]

i suppose in a way i'm asking the difference between japanese mingei pottery and american mingei as a type . it's rather not about the thing itself (obv both happen) but the transliterated meaning and the outcome of expression .

I did say 'Both' didn't I? People in Japan wear them both ways. And I also wear them both ways.

 

[garigo]

Mark Cho’s take on the casual suit.

 

[losrockets]

I think most CM safari or field jacket outfits look bad, especially the typical CM dude w/ wool pants, a point collar shirt, and tie. Mark showing an OCBD, suede loafers, and a knit tie probably gets it better but I see most folks wearing a safari jacket cut similarly to their sportcoat. Really what's the point? I think you're trying to say "I'm relaxed" but you actually come across as "I'm trying to look relaxed" His pairings for the road jacket sets looked much better (knits, flannels, sneakers).

 

[clee1982]

CM casual is eventually limited in terms of what you can play, kind hard to get around that.

 

[DoubleDouble]

Have people tried anything from Seneca? (new company of Rosborough of Abasi Rosborough)