bckchambers
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- Jun 25, 2009
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Hi gang, Thought I might contribute a few thoughts, especially given it's clearance season. I'm 6', have a fairly long torso but not out of proportion to my lower-half, with about a 40" chest. I work in litigation but spend a great deal of my day getting up and sitting back down in my chair = wear and tear. For these standard days I look for a fairly robust, classically shaped (but certainly not dated) cut, a utility suit in a Super 100's fabric. For my shape, and because the cut and fabrics appeal, I'm keen on Gieves & Hawkes OTR, Zegna OTR and Durban OTR. If you're in Melbourne, you'll probably already know that these are DJ's staples. The guys on the DJ's floor that have been there for some years recommend Boss and Anthony Squires in the same class as Zegna and Durban OTR. I still wear a heavy, beautiful and classic Louis Feraud OTR suit I purchased at DJ's 12 years ago - Feraud though seems to have dropped off the map which is a shame. Dj's really do have a great OTR range. I've never had a Boss suit (I believe they now enjoy a good reputation. However some years ago, around their separation from Strellson, I heard Boss had some quality and cut issues). I have though had had an Anthony Squires. At more or less the same price as the Squires, my low-end Zegna employed a better cloth, cut and construction than the Squires. I haven't had a Squires nor been enthusiastic about their fit on my shape, or their cloths, since. I notoriously wear through the seat of my trousers as I don't properly rotate my utility suits. The Zegna trousers delivered more life than the Squires' when worn for a comparative length of time by me. All the above names have their fabrics cut by a computer-driven laser and are fused. They are though hand finished. They're good RTW suits especially when bought for 30 or 40% off at clearance. I enjoy wearing them and I'm enthusiastic about them. I guess the point of this narrative is that I wouldn't spend much more than $1,200 for a utility (every day) OTR suit. I certainly wouldn't pay $2,500 or more for an OTR Zegna, even when it's presented in a beautiful Zegna Super 120's+ cloth. And I definitely wouldn't expect to find a good bespoke suit in this price area. For a suit above this grade, something to wear once a weak or for special occasions, I spend a little more and properly go bespoke. My tailor of choice is Charles Maimone in Crossley Street. A very unassuming shop front cloaks a superb craftsman. Maimone's suits start at about $3,000. This is a big ask for many men. However once you've had a suit hand-made for you in a choice cloth, it's hard to go back. And ask anyone who's had a suit handmade in Melbourne and even beyond - Maimone is the tailor of choice. I haven't had a suit made by Adriano Carbone, however I'm sure the satisfaction and pride in the finished product is similar to Maimone's. Carbone rates highly in these fora. Either way, it's in a bespoke suit that I feel a million dollars and have have experienced true craftsmanship. So be careful spending too much more than, say, $1,200 on a non-bespoke suit. Invest a little more and you'll experience what it's like to turn heads... And the famous question "what are you wearing today?": Zengna loafers, a Gieves & Hawkes light grey stripe two-button suit; Herringbone double-cuff shirt Zegna tie It's good to be alive 
