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Suit for a manly woman

BoiToi

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hi all

im (finally!) getting married in two months to my life partner but the problem is that we want to have a formal ceremony and i cant find a suit that will fit me. i will NOT wear a woman's suit because theyre all made for office environments and the shoulders dont fit (i have very broad shoulders!). but all the men's suits I try on won't close properly because i also have breasts. i dont have time to get a suit custom made in time for the wedding. what are my options?

i was thinking maybe a look like those below would work. thoughts?



but i was thinking id pair it with a shirt like this:



so maybe overall it'd end up something like this:



however im not sure about the cuffs. and would it be ok to wear a purple boutonniere instead of red? this will be an evening ceremony.

thanks for any help you bros can give me!
 

BoiToi

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i also dont have any dress shoes. i saw some nice ones on sale at dillards (i think they were cole haan) but after reading some threads here i was thinking some allen edmonds are more the style for someone like me (a butch).

what do you think of these? i dont wear dress shoes that much so i thought maybe i could buy something like these and then i could wear them around town too!

 
Last edited:

suitsandties

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First off, congrats!

Addressing the issue of the suit jacket not closing properly, I would recommend you look for suit jackets with a low-break. Usually jackets that are either one-button or two-buttons will have a low-break. Suit jackets with a low-break will button below your breasts and therefore may fit better. I apologize if you have been trying jackets on with low-breaks then my suggestion is rendered useless.

The purple boutonniere will look fine.

I understand you're trying to be practical with the shoes. Why spend money on oxfords you'll only wear once. But maybe look into something more like these:

http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF7145_1_40000000001_-1

I just feel as though the boots you posted are very casual.
 

nmprisons

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Congrats.

Where are you located? Having a jacket custom made might be faster and easier than you think, especially if the alternative is running from store to store trying to find something (anything) that fits.

There was a poster here a while back who had a number of suits made for her that looked pretty fantastic. Not sure if she is still around, but she might be able to offer you some practical advice.
 

wojt

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I don't dig that look especially if you have broad shoulders and big breasts, imo it would be better to look for women clothes in androgyny style since it won't be a trad wedding anyways
 

philosophe

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Congratulations!

My guess is that having a suit made would be the best path. Short of that, you might try shopping for suits for heavier guys. The "big and tall" clothing (big is sometimes called "portly") will be fuller in the chest and waist than regular sizes. Some manufacturers also sell these sizes as suit separates, which would probably help you optimize the fit. If you can find a nice dark navy or charcoal suit, you'll get lots of use out of after the wedding. If your better half is wearing white, dark navy or charcoal will look fine in the pictures.

Re shoes: I would try to find something with a leather sole, but I wouldn't obsess too much. Only the true clothing nerds and iGents will be paying attention.

Re shirts: Since you have two months, you can probably use an online tailor. Some of the SF affiliates do shirts, and I am sure that you'll get good service.
 

Grammaton Cleric

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Hmm, I suspect you could still get one made-to-measure quickly. Same for the shirt.

As for the shoes, I would recommend something just a bit more formal. I think the pair you've picked would be a bit incongruous with formal clothing.

And, congratulations!
 

MyOtherLife

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BoiToi, welcome to Styleforum.

Your starting point begins before the shirt and suit.
Were I you, I would look for a binder to aid in flattening the chest somewhat.
You could also look into a product called Spanx

400


Try on a Spanx mens cotton undershirt for this purpose. It may act as a binder of sorts. You'll want the fit to be snug but not tight.
Once your chest is bound or 'smoothed out' so to speak, you may find the shirt and jacket fits will improve.
You can also wear Spanx mens briefs.

The shoulders of a female are often (not always) narrower than those of a male. To compensate or broaden the shoulder line to what is more proportionate to a mans shoulder line, you may want to take the first of your two remaining months to look in as many discount and thrift stores as possible for a tuxedo or dark navy or charcoal suit.
This will be only a half-way example but (with respect) I will use some photos of Chaz Bono.
Observe the shoulder line on Mr. Bono's suits.
You will notice some 'overhang' beyond his natural shoulders. This balances his proportions out and gives him a more flattering and masculine fit.

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Other examples....

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You may or may not also wish to entertain the thought of a waistcoat to further formalize the jacket.
This will further slim and balance your proportions to the masculine side.

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To further address your questions about jackets, shoes, etc.,
it will help if you can provide the following information:
  • Your approximate location (example- Montreal, Canada).
  • Your budget (either itemized- shoes, suit, etc. -or- total)
  • The length and wiidth of your un-socked left foot (inches or millimetres)

Hope this helps and congratulations to you and your partner on the joining of your life's journey. :)
Awaiting your response to the aforementioned questions ^
:lurk:
 
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antexit

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Congrats! Another possibility may be, if you're in an area with a good tailor, to buy a men's suit with a low buttonning point that fits your shoulders and chest--i.e. that buttons comfortably over your chest--and have the waist taken in. You could easily find a suit you like and have the tailoring done in two months. A traditional single-breasted tuxedo would work well for this, and since men's jacket sizes are based on the size of the chest, you could do a little research and find a good-quality vintage tux on eBay you like for a decent price.

Think about getting a pair of captoe boots with a leather sole if you don't want to buy shoes you won't wear afterward-- like these ones by Alden. They're not traditional with a wedding suit, obviously, but they're a good compromise and you can wear them forever.
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