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Suggest first American-made raw denim jeans

dawgvet

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I am interested in trying my first raw denim jeans and would like American-made jeans made from White Oak Cone Mills denim selvedge made on the old shuttle looms. I do not want a 'fashion' jean, just a classic straight leg dark indigo jean, basically like Levi's 505s.
I am not wanting jeans to look 'hip' or fashion-forward. Actually like basic retro-classic, traditional American jeans.
Just started reading about American-made denim and Cone Mills old shuttle looms and thought that would be neat as I grew up in a small southern town whose main employer was a denim mill for almost 90 years.
I would like to keep price as low as possible but realize this denim doesn't come cheap.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks
Jed
 

dawgvet

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Thanks for the input. Both Flint and Tinder and Gustin were out of stock in my size. I wear a 34 inseam but all Flint and Tinder make are 32" inseam. How weird.
Any other suggestions along those lines?
 

Austin Tremblay

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Raleigh Denim makes fantastic jeans. They're much pricier than Gustin, since they're sold at true retail prices. But sometimes you can find them on sale. I think their default inseam is 34". It's sanforized denim, but so is the denim Gustin uses.
 

DC Office Hack

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Try Bonobos next, although Bonobos selvege costs a good bit more. I like Gustin and Flint/Tinder because of the high quality and low prices. Gustin was my intro to selvege. Personally, I'm not sure what difference selvege makes, but I have no doubt that Cone's fabric is superior to any other I've worn. Is that because it's selvege? I don't know. I like it, though.

If you're willing to spend $200 and above, my favorite for old school looks is Imogene + Willie (http://www.imogeneandwillie.com/. There's also Levi's LVC. Now, what I can't explain is why Imogene + Willie/LVC charge $250 for what Gustin sells for $81. What's the difference? OK, LVC's trading on archival cuts, which is cool. The fit had better be damned good.

If you're not willing to blow $250, wait for Gustin to offer something you're interested in.
 

Austin Tremblay

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Personally, I'm not sure what difference selvege makes, but I have no doubt that Cone's fabric is superior to any other I've worn. Is that because it's selvege? I don't know. I like it, though.

"Selvege" simply means that the jeans were sewn on a shuttle loom, an old machine that makes a cleaner edge. If you cuff, or "stack," the jeans, selvage looks better, but it doesn't necessarily imply quality or durability. The White Cone denim, in my biased North Carolinian-born opinion, is so good because they've been perfecting their craft for such a long time, and they have a long history of creating durable, good looking denim. It's the only denim I'll wear.

A lot of people here like the brand APC as well. I don't know anything about them, except I see a lot of chatter about their jeans.
 

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