mossrockss
Distinguished Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2008
- Messages
- 3,774
- Reaction score
- 8,237
Speaking of MTM, I just received my first commission from S&M and thought I'd do a write up for those considering going this route. Overall, my experience was excellent. S&M pretty much nailed the design details. It's funny that I received my suit amidst all the discussion about lapel shapes, as Rick showed me the Neopolitan sample they had and I decidedly did not want a lapel with lots of negative belly. I love Eidos as much as the next SF member, but I've never been as fond of their more dramatic offerings, which read to me as sort of "Liverano-lite". Instead, I tried to have Rick replicate the Ring Jacket AMJ03 style offered by the Armoury, which has a straight lapel and unpadded, spalla camicia shoulders. I requested straight lapels and unpadded shoulders, but didn't really want shirred shoulders. The end result is actually pretty similar to the pics of the sample Rick posted recently. There is a slight belly to the lapel, or at least the illusion of one, but it doesn't bother me (judging by the replies, most people here won't be fans though). Every other detail - 3.75" lapel width, three sleeve buttons, dual vents, jetted pockets, standard gorge, open quarters, side adjusters and 1.75" cuffs on trousers etc. - S&M nailed. The only issue I have is that the button placement is a bit high, but that's easy to fix on the next order.
The fit is pretty exceptional for the first try as well, although it probably helps that RTW S&M fits me pretty well already. My main issue with off the rack S&M is collar gap. I told Rick I was basically doing MTM to fix this and they nailed it. The suit hugs my neck beautifully. Everything else fits great too. I was wary of ordering working cuffs, but the arm length is perfect. As is the body length. The only changes I intend to make are to extend the shoulders a bit and add some width to the chest for drape, but these are mainly stylistic preferences. I gave them some pants to copy, and they replicated them very well, with a couple of minor exceptions that will be easy to fix on the next order.
At the end of the day, I got a fully canvassed, three piece MTM suit, with virtually no limitations on styling, for around $750USD. I think that's incredible and don't know of anywhere else one could get this kind of value. And now, without further adieu, here are a few crappy pics:
that looks fantastic. well done