• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

mossrockss

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
3,774
Reaction score
8,237
Speaking of MTM, I just received my first commission from S&M and thought I'd do a write up for those considering going this route. Overall, my experience was excellent. S&M pretty much nailed the design details. It's funny that I received my suit amidst all the discussion about lapel shapes, as Rick showed me the Neopolitan sample they had and I decidedly did not want a lapel with lots of negative belly. I love Eidos as much as the next SF member, but I've never been as fond of their more dramatic offerings, which read to me as sort of "Liverano-lite". Instead, I tried to have Rick replicate the Ring Jacket AMJ03 style offered by the Armoury, which has a straight lapel and unpadded, spalla camicia shoulders. I requested straight lapels and unpadded shoulders, but didn't really want shirred shoulders. The end result is actually pretty similar to the pics of the sample Rick posted recently. There is a slight belly to the lapel, or at least the illusion of one, but it doesn't bother me (judging by the replies, most people here won't be fans though). Every other detail - 3.75" lapel width, three sleeve buttons, dual vents, jetted pockets, standard gorge, open quarters, side adjusters and 1.75" cuffs on trousers etc. - S&M nailed. The only issue I have is that the button placement is a bit high, but that's easy to fix on the next order.

The fit is pretty exceptional for the first try as well, although it probably helps that RTW S&M fits me pretty well already. My main issue with off the rack S&M is collar gap. I told Rick I was basically doing MTM to fix this and they nailed it. The suit hugs my neck beautifully. Everything else fits great too. I was wary of ordering working cuffs, but the arm length is perfect. As is the body length. The only changes I intend to make are to extend the shoulders a bit and add some width to the chest for drape, but these are mainly stylistic preferences. I gave them some pants to copy, and they replicated them very well, with a couple of minor exceptions that will be easy to fix on the next order.

At the end of the day, I got a fully canvassed, three piece MTM suit, with virtually no limitations on styling, for around $750USD. I think that's incredible and don't know of anywhere else one could get this kind of value. And now, without further adieu, here are a few crappy pics:

that looks fantastic. well done
 

Burzan

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2013
Messages
5,935
Reaction score
10,873
Speaking of MTM, I just received my first commission from S&M and thought I'd do a write up for those considering going this route. Overall, my experience was excellent. S&M pretty much nailed the design details. It's funny that I received my suit amidst all the discussion about lapel shapes, as Rick showed me the Neopolitan sample they had and I decidedly did not want a lapel with lots of negative belly. I love Eidos as much as the next SF member, but I've never been as fond of their more dramatic offerings, which read to me as sort of "Liverano-lite". Instead, I tried to have Rick replicate the Ring Jacket AMJ03 style offered by the Armoury, which has a straight lapel and unpadded, spalla camicia shoulders. I requested straight lapels and unpadded shoulders, but didn't really want shirred shoulders. The end result is actually pretty similar to the pics of the sample Rick posted recently. There is a slight belly to the lapel, or at least the illusion of one, but it doesn't bother me (judging by the replies, most people here won't be fans though). Every other detail - 3.75" lapel width, three sleeve buttons, dual vents, jetted pockets, standard gorge, open quarters, side adjusters and 1.75" cuffs on trousers etc. - S&M nailed. The only issue I have is that the button placement is a bit high, but that's easy to fix on the next order.

The fit is pretty exceptional for the first try as well, although it probably helps that RTW S&M fits me pretty well already. My main issue with off the rack S&M is collar gap. I told Rick I was basically doing MTM to fix this and they nailed it. The suit hugs my neck beautifully. Everything else fits great too. I was wary of ordering working cuffs, but the arm length is perfect. As is the body length. The only changes I intend to make are to extend the shoulders a bit and add some width to the chest for drape, but these are mainly stylistic preferences. I gave them some pants to copy, and they replicated them very well, with a couple of minor exceptions that will be easy to fix on the next order.

At the end of the day, I got a fully canvassed, three piece MTM suit, with virtually no limitations on styling, for around $750USD. I think that's incredible and don't know of anywhere else one could get this kind of value. And now, without further adieu, here are a few crappy pics:

View attachment 823438

View attachment 823440

View attachment 823442

Hot damn that's a great looking suit, nice work on the details.
 

n2pua

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2009
Messages
511
Reaction score
296
What was the original Jort configuration? Have they changed it?

The only substantive change was going to a 2-button configuration a year ago. However, like all of the SuSu's inventory, what kills it every.single.time. are the functioning button-holes, ultra slim fit from shoulder to waist and shorter length. one of the forum members i speak with on a regular basis has had to listen to me gripe about the jort exhaustively and yet, there really isn't anything like it ...... the closest thing to a neapolitan jacket i've ever worn at the price point. the hand-set shoulder/collar, full canvas construction ........ it's a truly frustrating piece of tailoring. If SuSu could just get out of their own way and 1) let out the waist/chest, 2) add a touch of length and 3) drop the functioning buttonholes ....... the jort itself could "truly" be the best value in menswear.

then came Eidos and the Ciro (granted, the lapel width of the Jort is closer the Tenero model)

then the same forum member sent me a link to your IG post of the navy neapolitan jacket and i thought it was as if The Jort had a one night stand with the Ciro and one of them got pregnant and you delivered their baby.
 

beargonefishing

Stylish Dinosaur
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2009
Messages
34,040
Reaction score
41,193
to add to @mossrockss .....

3/2 roll
wide lapel
negative belly
lower gorge
barchetta up top
patch pocket on sportcoats and flap/jetted on suits

aaaaaaand

as much grinze/expression as is allowable on a camicia shoulder.

i would MTO tomorrow

make it fully canvassed and i'd make it tonight

What is a negative belly?
 

spiermackay

Affiliate Vendor
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
6,549
Reaction score
14,966
Hi Guys,

We migrated our site to a new server last night to help deal with the increase of traffic and we hit a few bumps moving the database over. Site is down right now, but should be back up soon.
 

Burzan

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2013
Messages
5,935
Reaction score
10,873
Wearing this jacket again today, tried the combo on last night because I just got the polo and had to make it my OOTD.

Makes me want long sleeve polos from you Rick.

2017-08-03 19.55.11_edited.jpg
 

mossrockss

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
3,774
Reaction score
8,237
Wearing this jacket again today, tried the combo on last night because I just got the polo and had to make it my OOTD.

Makes me want long sleeve polos from you Rick.

View attachment 823579
what polo is it?
friend of mine just got one of the SS Spier polos and tells me it's amazing. told him "if that's true, would love to see it in LS"
 

Burzan

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2013
Messages
5,935
Reaction score
10,873
what polo is it?
friend of mine just got one of the SS Spier polos and tells me it's amazing. told him "if that's true, would love to see it in LS"

It's Kent Wang and I hated to do it since I love the Spier & Mackay polos, needed a green though. Would love to see a dark green and brown come to the polo line up and add some long sleeves down the road.

The SM polos are fantastic, highly suggest trying them out. I suspect the next time Rick brings them out they will be even better (which is crazy to think), much like every new round of items in the line.

Thanks! High praise coming from guys with fits like yours. Now if only I had your photog skills.

Just a tripod, self timer, and a camera without autofocus. That and a lot of outtake poses where it looks like I'm robot who's learning what a human stands like. Eventually a good shot comes around though haha.
 

goodwillhinton

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2015
Messages
74
Reaction score
197
It's Kent Wang and I hated to do it since I love the Spier & Mackay polos, needed a green though. Would love to see a dark green and brown come to the polo line up and add some long sleeves down the road.

The SM polos are fantastic, highly suggest trying them out. I suspect the next time Rick brings them out they will be even better (which is crazy to think), much like every new round of items in the line.



Just a tripod, self timer, and a camera without autofocus. That and a lot of outtake poses where it looks like I'm robot who's learning what a human stands like. Eventually a good shot comes around though haha.

I have both Kent Wang and SM polos and love them both. Collars might be a tad better with the Kent Wang polos but I like the material of the SM polos better. And you can't beat the value of the SM polos.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 95 38.0%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 91 36.4%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 27 10.8%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 42 16.8%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.2%

Staff online

Forum statistics

Threads
507,099
Messages
10,593,737
Members
224,357
Latest member
twesigirejohn
Top