SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[ppk]

IMO regular flapped would look better.

Thanks. I was thinking the same but wanted to get some feedback.

 

[WoolyLamb]

Imo you could go both ways, but patch pockets on a DB is uncommon. If you will wear it more casual in a high/low way I would say fine. Here is mine with patch pockets.

 

[JayDee90]

Imo you could go both ways, but patch pockets on a DB is uncommon. If you will wear it more casual in a high/low way I would say fine. Here is mine with patch pockets. View attachment 2314187 View attachment 2314189

That is…a lot of ankle.

 

[WoolyLamb]

That is…a lot of ankle.

Haha yes. I rolled it down one after that photo but also we were literally going on a boat for a party in the height of summer.

 

[classicoutfits]

Thanks. I was thinking the same but wanted to get some feedback.

I think patch can work with certain fabrics, I have a hopsack one.

 

[Rhodia]

Thanks. I was thinking the same but wanted to get some feedback.

I have read that a proper blazer, both single- and double-breasted, should have patch pockets. Brass (or metal) buttons are also hallmarks of the blazer.

The danger with flap pockets is straying into "orphaned suit jacket" territory, especially if the fabric is too dark of a shade of navy and is worsted (rather than, say, flannel or fresco or hopsack). I would be hesitant to have flap pockets on anything that is not a suit, unless the pockets are flapped patch pockets (which probably work best on a single breasted blazer, a la J. Press).

Flap pockets are workable on a DB sport jacket if it's a more formal look (for example, a more formal fabric and structured shoulder). If you're inspired by the casual wearing of the DB in the photo you posted, and in a Neapolitan style of tailoring, I would go with patch.

 

[DonRaphael]

Does anybody have photos of the char navy tweed in person?

We dont have natural light in Sweden this time of the year, so the colour is probably distorted due to the pics being taken under artificial yellow light.

The fabric is dark and beautiful and the texture is more subdued in real life. It slmost looks like denim in my pics. This is not not the case under natural light. I love the jacket.

Mine is a custom order btw and not the one being offered rtw (so you dont get mislead by the roped shoulders, swelled edges and wider lapels etc).

 

[mugicha_daisuki]

First new suit for SS25 is posted and they're clearly trying more natural lighting. It introduces some shadows, but the color isn't washed out. Much better IMO. Those sportcoats above are shockingly different IRL.

View attachment 2313471

suits look borderline uncomfortable on these models...

 

[sydneycider]

suits look borderline uncomfortable on these models...

Their marketing team is still obsessed with only showing slim fit variants and having models wear a size too small.

 

[classicoutfits]

Their marketing team is still obsessed with only showing slim fit variants and having models wear a size too small.

maybe they know that audience (slim fitting garments) need marketing and the more classic pleated contemporary cuts are selling anyway?

 

[ColdEyedPugilist]

Thanks. I was thinking the same but wanted to get some feedback.

I discussed this with Ethan Newton of Brycelands a while ago. Both of us concluded that a DB blazer with brass buttons should always have flap pockets.

Patch pockets would work only well on DB jackets with non-brass buttons.

 

[ColdEyedPugilist]

I have read that a proper blazer, both single- and double-breasted, should have patch pockets. Brass (or metal) buttons are also hallmarks of the blazer.

The danger with flap pockets is straying into "orphaned suit jacket" territory, especially if the fabric is too dark of a shade of navy and is worsted (rather than, say, flannel or fresco or hopsack). I would be hesitant to have flap pockets on anything that is not a suit, unless the pockets are flapped patch pockets (which probably work best on a single breasted blazer, a la J. Press).

Flap pockets are workable on a DB sport jacket if it's a more formal look (for example, a more formal fabric and structured shoulder). If you're inspired by the casual wearing of the DB in the photo you posted, and in a Neapolitan style of tailoring, I would go with patch.

In my opinion, unless you’re talking full-on military dress uniforms, brass buttons on suit jackets are a major faux pax. If the blazer has brass buttons, there’s very little chance it’ll be mistaken for an orphaned suit jacket.

Mostly agree with everything else.

 

[NORE]

Yes or no?

 

[sydneycider]

Yes or no?

View attachment 2315153 View attachment 2315155

No, IMO peacoats are such an awkward garment. You can't wear them over tailoring, so they're out for smarter outfits. But they also don't look particularly casual.

They're also quite short and create a silhouette that's very top heavy. Just go with a full length overcoat.

 

[NORE]

No, IMO peacoats are such an awkward garment. You can't wear them over tailoring, so they're out for smarter outfits. But they also don't look particularly casual.

They're also quite short and create a silhouette that's very top heavy. Just go with a full length overcoat.

Well I've already kopped, so we'll see when it arrives. Worst case I'll look like dude from despicable me. I am fairly tall and slim.

I wanted something to replace the Club Quilt I'm trying to retire.