SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[Rhodia]

seems like one you guys is talking about SC = Sports Coat while the other one is SC = Spalla Camicia?

Sorry. I was referring to Sportcoats.

 

[St1X]

What is the Suitsupply equivalent of the S&M Neo cut? Open to other manufacturers in similar cut and price range as well, so long as it's fairly easy to try-on in the DC area.

Havana. But they got some new relaxed fits with soft ahoulders

 

[St1X]

I am not sure about this. My understanding has been that the spalla camicia shoulder is a combination of the sleeve and shoulder inlays being pressed towards the shoulder and also how the sleevehead is cut to be significantly larger in diameter than the armhole. The extra sleevehead fabric is worked into the armhole to make the pleats. I haven’t heard of a SC shoulder without the pleats.

I am sure about it, though. And even googled the Italian term for you - it's Manica a Camicia and here's the explanation about SC that specifically mentions it doesn't imply MC https://www.permanentstyle.com/2019/12/video-what-spalla-camicia-really-means.html

 

[jql888]

Some reviews on outerwear:

Charcoal Flannel Down Blazer - Big fan. I lean more towards "Smart Casual" nowadays working in tech. Great fit off the rack, no down coming out, awesome material.

Navy Tweed Flight Jacket - Not a fan. Fit was strange for me. Took it in my usual size (42). It was too short (though this seems to be the intended look from the model pictures, just not for me), the sleeves were too long, and I think the chest is a little too slim (hard to use the side pockets when unbuttoned).

Any other folks want to share their "Smart Casual" favorites?

 

[NORE]

I feel like the quarter lining lends itself to worse structure and drape in the coats than fully lined. I'm ok with it for casual sports coats but absolutely wouldn't do it for business suits.

I actually like the quarter linings in the jackets I have in heavier weights, for the same reason I don't wear undershirts.

But I agree, it can be an issue if your shirt situation underneath isn't ideal.

 

[ColdEyedPugilist]

I have both. I prefer half canvassed, it breath better. For my formal suits, I bought a mtm in fill canvassed and I don’t regret, it draped better and stayed sharper when I wore it for few days in a row.

I love ME, but I don’t like that suit, a heavier high twist that is used for colder weather according to their description doesn’t make sense to me but I remember there was a member few pages back who was looking at this item and I wonder if he bought it and what his real life experience been?

I’m that member. I have both the ME high twist and the Minnis twill from this season. The ME has a softer hand but the Minnis seems to drape better, despite both being relatively heavy.

 

[satch69]

Moleskin trucker (past season) was a lovely find on final sale. Thick like moleskin but soft like flannel and suit-like lining throughout. And the type ii folds down the front and waist tabs on the rear sides give it a vintage rugged look.

Some reviews on outerwear:

Charcoal Flannel Down Blazer - Big fan. I lean more towards "Smart Casual" nowadays working in tech. Great fit off the rack, no down coming out, awesome material.

Navy Tweed Flight Jacket - Not a fan. Fit was strange for me. Took it in my usual size (42). It was too short (though this seems to be the intended look from the model pictures, just not for me), the sleeves were too long, and I think the chest is a little too slim (hard to use the side pockets when unbuttoned).

Any other folks want to share their "Smart Casual" favorites?

 

[ColdEyedPugilist]

Double post.

 

[satch69]

I’m that member. I have both the ME high twist and the Minnis twill from this season. The ME has a softer hand but the Minnis seems to drape better, despite both being relatively heavy.

Thanks. Would you consider wearing the high twist in warmer weather? Not like beach wedding, but maybe an office visit on a 81 degree day?

 

[spacenegroes]

Quarter lining is a more advanced way of finishing a jacket and is always better for customers. It requires a higher degree of finishing fabric edges in the seams. Fully lined jackets usually leave them unfinished, with fabric fraying there. So you don't have as much seam allowance if you need to let the garment out in the future. It's a way to cut costs

Well, I generally don't like the wool of the coat rubbing directly against my shirt fabric. Isn't that the point of lining? To be a smooth, satin-y fabric that decreases friction between wool coat and cotton shirt, both of which may be textured? Like a rough denim fabric rubbing against, say, a corduroy?

Secondly, your explanation doesn't really ring true to me. Surely removing 3/4 of the lining is not the only way to finish seams and reduce fraying? I'm sure you could do that some other way while retaining lining coverage of the inside of the jacket.

 

[St1X]

Well, I generally don't like the wool of the coat rubbing directly against my shirt fabric. Isn't that the point of lining? To be a smooth, satin-y fabric that decreases friction between wool coat and cotton shirt, both of which may be textured? Like a rough denim fabric rubbing against, say, a corduroy?

Secondly, your explanation doesn't really ring true to me. Surely removing 3/4 of the lining is not the only way to finish seams and reduce fraying? I'm sure you could do that some other way while retaining lining coverage of the inside of the jacket.

Having a fully lined tweed jacket makes sense. But I never had issues with half/quarter lines tweeds. So having an extra seam allowance is a lot more important for me.
Yes, you can properly finish seams with fully lined jackets. But not at this price point. And apparently, judging from this conversation not all bespoke tailors do a proper finishing for fully lined jackets. But I am most likely misremembering and/or missing the point and he cuts corners, he doesn't leave seams to fray

 

[7_rocket]

Does anyone own this parka? Is it bulky? I'm currently wearing a Eddie Bauer superior down parka and while it's a great coat and it serves its purpose, it's a bit too bulky for me.

 

[ColdEyedPugilist]

Thanks. Would you consider wearing the high twist in warmer weather? Not like beach wedding, but maybe an office visit on a 81 degree day?

IMO, it shouldn’t be a problem. I’ve done so before without feeling too uncomfortable.

 

[XxLogo]

Happy New Year to you all, may 2025 bring many more clothes and fortunes!

 

[EdwardPatrick]

What are your guys' preferred variation for spread collars? I remember buying a RTW shirt -- I think it was C2, but I could be wrong -- and being disappointed that the collar points weren't long enough to sit under by jacket's lapels.