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Jamesbond1

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Not sure why Spier calls their trousers high rise? To me they are mid rise at best!

Made to measure is the only way to achieve high rise for me!
IMG_5944.jpeg
 

ericgereghty

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Oof, trying to squeeze into my spier trousers after a year was a failure. There isn't enough of a difference between slim and contemporary in the thighs/seat.

Looks like only MTO for me in the future for trousers.
Tis a bummer. They're good enough (not high praise lol) when worn with a full suit, but not remotely high rise and not particularly flattering when worn sans jacket.

Still will look the other way* for a suit I really want (since the Neo cut is awesome), but the pants could be much better, imo.

*assuming they ever get back to listing fabric weight
 

FlyingHorker

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Tis a bummer. They're good enough (not high praise lol) when worn with a full suit, but not remotely high rise and not particularly flattering when worn sans jacket.

Still will look the other way* for a suit I really want (since the Neo cut is awesome), but the pants could be much better, imo.

*assuming they ever get back to listing fabric weight
Yeah the jacket cuts are all perfect for me, I've no qualms there. I think they work well for most of S&M's trimmer customers. I notice the size gradation gets tighter the higher up one goes for chest size. I can't imagine true 44-48Rs being comfortable in a lot of S&M's OTR sizes.

+1 for listing fabric weight as well, @SpierTeam @spiermackay (if they still check this forum).

I may try the english cut for MTO to balance out my bottom heavy physique.

I'm thinking of going up a jacket size from my neo cut to a 41R, and maxing out the thighs/hem/seat/rise for trousers. If it's too big, I can always have it taken in locally.
 

JTrent82

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Tis a bummer. They're good enough (not high praise lol) when worn with a full suit, but not remotely high rise and not particularly flattering when worn sans jacket.

Still will look the other way* for a suit I really want (since the Neo cut is awesome), but the pants could be much better, imo.

*assuming they ever get back to listing fabric weight
Wasn't the fit just updated with a longer back rise? Have you worn any trousers from this season? Wondering how they stack up against past iterations.
 

JTrent82

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New MTO in Navy Harris Tweed herringbone, unpadded (canvas only) extended shoulder with roping, swelled edges, standard cut but with wider lapel and 3r2.

View attachment 2098559 View attachment 2098557 View attachment 2098561
Very nice! Did you select 2.5 in the MTO interface? I've always wondered if this would result in a true three-roll-two with the lapel extending all the way to the second button, or if it only extends midway between buttons two and three. This seems like it's the same three-roll-two as on the Neo cut. Is that your experience?
 

dapperclassic

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Very nice! Did you select 2.5 in the MTO interface? I've always wondered if this would result in a true three-roll-two with the lapel extending all the way to the second button, or if it only extends midway between buttons two and three. This seems like it's the same three-roll-two as on the Neo cut. Is that your experience?

Thanks, I didn't actually select anything on the web interface, so I'm not sure what the options are there - this was all done on email and follows most of the specs from a previous MTO order of mine that I was able to reference (except the shoulders which is a first for me).

The cut and buttoning is very similar to the Neo cut, however the standard cut lapel doesn't have the inner curve like the Neo one does (although that has been flattened from FW22 onwards)

Any any case, the roll is very easy to alter with a press and steam.
 

Rhodia

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Thanks, I didn't actually select anything on the web interface, so I'm not sure what the options are there - this was all done on email and follows most of the specs from a previous MTO order of mine that I was able to reference (except the shoulders which is a first for me).

The cut and buttoning is very similar to the Neo cut, however the standard cut lapel doesn't have the inner curve like the Neo one does (although that has been flattened from FW22 onwards)

Any any case, the roll is very easy to alter with a press and steam.
I purchased a 3-2 RTW this season and was also confused why that option is not listed under their "Normal Sportcoat" options.

I inquired with Spier about whether the 3-2.5 in the MTO interface was the same as their 3-2 sold as RTW. I was told you can order 3-2.5 and then indicate 3-2 in the Comments on your order.
 

Rhodia

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Wasn't the fit just updated with a longer back rise? Have you worn any trousers from this season? Wondering how they stack up against past iterations.
+1 on this.

Spier suits are off limits for me simply due to the rise. I'd be interested in confirmation of these changes.
 

SteveMc

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Wasn't the fit just updated with a longer back rise? Have you worn any trousers from this season? Wondering how they stack up against past iterations.

I just got this season high-rise heavy twill and I do feel there're slight changes in the cut, that is compared to past iterations.

If I'll post a side-by-side pictures, I doubt that anyone will be able to see the difference.
There's a subtle difference in the crotch and thighs area and a little bit more rear allowance.
This is compared to about 10 different high-rise trousers in different fabrics all in 30 contemporary.
In fact, excluding waist size, they are basically identical to a 32 pair that I once got by mistake.
 

SuaveStyle

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I got a pair of flat front trousers this year and did not notice any difference in cut from last year’s iteration, which I also was hoping for a little more room in the thighs specifically. I’m curious if the changes were exclusive to the high rise versions only 🤔 I really wish they would offer flat front high rise options as I have tried and failed to make the single pleat work for me
 

SteveMc

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I got a pair of flat front trousers this year and did not notice any difference in cut from last year’s iteration, which I also was hoping for a little more room in the thighs specifically. I’m curious if the changes were exclusive to the high rise versions only 🤔 I really wish they would offer flat front high rise options as I have tried and failed to make the single pleat work for me

As far as I know, the updated cut is for the high-rise only.
 

ericgereghty

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Yeah the jacket cuts are all perfect for me, I've no qualms there. I think they work well for most of S&M's trimmer customers. I notice the size gradation gets tighter the higher up one goes for chest size. I can't imagine true 44-48Rs being comfortable in a lot of S&M's OTR sizes.

+1 for listing fabric weight as well, @SpierTeam @spiermackay (if they still check this forum).

I may try the english cut for MTO to balance out my bottom heavy physique.

I'm thinking of going up a jacket size from my neo cut to a 41R, and maxing out the thighs/hem/seat/rise for trousers. If it's too big, I can always have it taken in locally.
As someone who trends toward the upper end of their sizing (at least based on shoulders) I definitely concur.
Wasn't the fit just updated with a longer back rise? Have you worn any trousers from this season? Wondering how they stack up against past iterations.
That's the word. I cannot say. I've not had any new SM tailoring. There are a few suits that look intriguing, but none enough to pull the trigger on without knowing weight. But, hope springs eternal...
 
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