SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[JTrent82]

I recently ordered the full-canvas, navy hopsack neo-cut SS from the preview section (hence no full description). When I received it I noticed the cuffs appear to be functional, but no buttons included or button holes. Is this normal and do I need a tailor skilled enough to cut button holes? When I emailed CS about it, I just got an order notification for buttons, but no explanation. Also, it looks like the lapel creases as a three three button, rather than a 3 roll 2. View attachment 1987237 View attachment 1987239 View attachment 1987243 View attachment 1987245

https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/navy-hopsack---neo-cut---full-canvas-4200042701-nesc-01-ss23

Check your pockets- the buttons are usually in one of the breast pockets. Yes, some jacket models (usually labeled "Emerald") come with unfinished sleeves. Your tailor can hem these with either functional or non-functional buttons- the former will require more time and skill. I just received a jacket which at first glance seemed to have the lapel ending at the first button instead of the second but as soon as I put the jacket on the lapel sorted itself out.

 

[Themistocles]

Check your pockets- the buttons are usually in one of the breast pockets. Yes, some jacket models (usually labeled "Emerald") come with unfinished sleeves. Your tailor can hem these with either functional or non-functional buttons- the former will require more time and skill. I just received a jacket which at first glance seemed to have the lapel ending at the first button instead of the second but as soon as I put the jacket on the lapel sorted itself out.

It’s labeled “sartorial collection” on the inside - appreciate the answer. Had never noticed this as an option before and with no description wasn’t expecting it. If I have them put on as false buttons, do I need to sew the whole thing shut?

 

[JTrent82]

It’s labeled “sartorial collection” on the inside - appreciate the answer. Had never noticed this as an option before and with no description wasn’t expecting it. If I have them put on as false buttons, do I need to sew the whole thing shut?

I'm not sure what you mean. The only difference here for your tailor is that the buttons aren't pre-sewn. Normally, he'd have to cut the buttons off before he altered the sleeves. With the buttons unattached, it's just one less step.

 

[CLH03]

I recently ordered the full-canvas, navy hopsack neo-cut SS from the preview section (hence no full description). When I received it I noticed the cuffs appear to be functional, but no buttons included or button holes. Is this normal and do I need a tailor skilled enough to cut button holes? When I emailed CS about it, I just got an order notification for buttons, but no explanation. Also, it looks like the lapel creases as a three three button, rather than a 3 roll 2. View attachment 1987237 View attachment 1987239 View attachment 1987243 View attachment 1987245

https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/navy-hopsack---neo-cut---full-canvas-4200042701-nesc-01-ss23

As far as the lapel goes, a little steaming will go a long way. I’ve found you can dramatically change the roll/shape of a lapel with some well placed steam. A handheld steamer is ideal, but an iron used with some upright steam would do the trick as well.

 

[redhotsili]

It’s labeled “sartorial collection” on the inside - appreciate the answer. Had never noticed this as an option before and with no description wasn’t expecting it. If I have them put on as false buttons, do I need to sew the whole thing shut?

I have the Marling & Evans Brown Windowpane sportcoat, which is also from the Emerlad Label line and come with unfinished sleeves. Unfortunatel, it didn’t come with the buttons either (most likely a mistake during packing), but the Spier team quickly shipped me the buttons after I reached out.

I don‘t have a tailor nearby that can do the functioning cuffs, so I just had the one closest to me do false cuffs - and they naturally sewed the cuff opening shut. If I decide to convert to functioning cuffs in the future, it should be easy enough to have them reopened.

 

[Connemara]

Are the full canvas jackets noticeably better in terms of drape, feel, etc.?

 

[Tim619]

Are the full canvas jackets noticeably better in terms of drape, feel, etc.?

The full canvas jackets are noticeably less stiff in the lower jacket fronts where the fusible would be. It's something that is not easy to photograph or see in pictures, but is nonetheless noticeable to me. How far that moves the needle or whether it is worth the cost I would say is up to the individual.

 

[JustinW]

Quick reviews:

Pinpoint oxford with the Cooper collar is a hit. Wonderfully soft and silky feel. I will be buying more of these!

The swim shorts are nice, but too long - actual swim shorts and not board shorts would have been better. Also the pockets are increasingly stretchy - drop a phone into your pocket and it will descend down and protrude below the hem.

 

[classicoutfits]

I have the Marling & Evans Brown Windowpane sportcoat, which is also from the Emerlad Label line and come with unfinished sleeves. Unfortunatel, it didn’t come with the buttons either (most likely a mistake during packing), but the Spier team quickly shipped me the buttons after I reached out.

I don‘t have a tailor nearby that can do the functioning cuffs, so I just had the one closest to me do false cuffs - and they naturally sewed the cuff opening shut. If I decide to convert to functioning cuffs in the future, it should be easy enough to have them reopened.

I also had the same issue, none of the tailors nearby offered to do functional sleeves due to lack of machine and apparently doing it by hand isn’t ideal. I wish they have the option to do the sleeves before shipping similar to pants hemming, at the end of the day paying extra to have the sleeves shut is annoying. I live in a major city btw

 

[DonRaphael]

I also had the same issue, none of the tailors nearby offered to do functional sleeves due to lack of machine and apparently doing it by hand isn’t ideal. I wish they have the option to do the sleeves before shipping similar to pants hemming, at the end of the day paying extra to have the sleeves shut is annoying. I live in a major city btw

Put it in the notes. That's what I always do. They'll send you an invoice for the work.

 

[taargus_taargus]

FYI strong possibility of an incoming UPS strike. Contract doesn't end until the end of July, so it could start around the first of August. You might want to get your deliveries in before then. Somebody might want to message customer service or Rikky to ask if they have a backup plan.

 

[Duke Santos]

I've noticed my last couple of orders, that processing and shipping have been extremely rapid compared to a year or two ago.

 

[classicoutfits]

I've noticed my last couple of orders, that processing and shipping have been extremely rapid compared to a year or two ago.

Yes! Mine was shipped 2 days later

 

[hpreston]

I recently ordered the full-canvas, navy hopsack neo-cut SS from the preview section (hence no full description). When I received it I noticed the cuffs appear to be functional, but no buttons included or button holes. Is this normal and do I need a tailor skilled enough to cut button holes? When I emailed CS about it, I just got an order notification for buttons, but no explanation. Also, it looks like the lapel creases as a three three button, rather than a 3 roll 2. View attachment 1987237 View attachment 1987239 View attachment 1987243 View attachment 1987245

https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/navy-hopsack---neo-cut---full-canvas-4200042701-nesc-01-ss23

already plenty of replied about the sleeves/buttons.

Re: the 3R2 (or hard 3) your sportcoat looks fine in that regard.

I'll share that I recently purchased a sport coat from another shop (not S&M) that is supposed to be 3R2, but the roll was a bit higher that I was used to, not quite a hard 3, but not as low a roll as other 3R2 coats in my closet.

I talked to my tailor, and did a bit of research on IG... and convinced myself that everything was fine. A hard 3 is going to have top button that is clearly meant to be buttoned, while the 3R2 may not quite roll ALL the way to the middle button, as long as the top button rolls a bit behind the lapel, it is fine....

 

[DonRaphael]

already plenty of replied about the sleeves/buttons.

Re: the 3R2 (or hard 3) your sportcoat looks fine in that regard.

I'll share that I recently purchased a sport coat from another shop (not S&M) that is supposed to be 3R2, but the roll was a bit higher that I was used to, not quite a hard 3, but not as low a roll as other 3R2 coats in my closet.

I talked to my tailor, and did a bit of research on IG... and convinced myself that everything was fine. A hard 3 is going to have top button that is clearly meant to be buttoned, while the 3R2 may not quite roll ALL the way to the middle button, as long as the top button rolls a bit behind the lapel, it is fine....

FYI, there's something called 3r2,5 as well which rolls to the halfway point between the top and center buttons (obviously).