Skoaktiebolaget – Enzo Bonafé, Saint Crispin’s, Löf & Tung

[vriche]

I just received both Enzo Bonafe 946 last and Carmina rain last whole cuts size uk8. First time buying both Enzo Bonafe and Carmina 's rain last.

The Enzo Bonafe fits me perfectly, however I find that the rain last in same size fits roomier, wider heel and are longer compared to the EB 946 last. I can already close the eyelets fully on the rain last. This means that they are too roomy for me have to return or sell them. Seems to me also that the rain last has a higher instep than the 946.

Those that have both did you experience that the rain last is slightly roomier than EB 946 last?

In my case, there's a slightly wider "V" gap on the Rain than the 946. But everyone's feet is different so YMMV.

 

[urban]

I cannot really comment on the instep as my Rain lasted shoes are derbies.
However, I share the same view that the 946 is 'shorter' than the Rain. And seems like everyone feels that the heel is wide on the Rain as well.

 

[armsignet]

I just received both Enzo Bonafe 946 last and Carmina rain last whole cuts size uk8. First time buying both Enzo Bonafe and Carmina 's rain last.

The Enzo Bonafe fits me perfectly, however I find that the rain last in same size fits roomier, wider heel and are longer compared to the EB 946 last. I can already close the eyelets fully on the rain last. This means that they are too roomy for me have to return or sell them. Seems to me also that the rain last has a higher instep than the 946.

Those that have both did you experience that the rain last is slightly roomier than EB 946 last?

The above is my experience too. I take the 946 and Rain in the same size. but the Rain is not a great fit for me because the high instep causes me to size down when I wouldn't otherwise. Rain is a great looking last for plain toed wholecuts though.

 

[ecwy]

I think those boots look great and I'm not trying to be difficult but I really don't see much, if any, real problem. If they aren't as ordered, that's another issue of course.

You can click on the pic to enlarge the size even further till 2048 pixels wide. It is most likely a machine or user issue as the machine stitches at an even spacing which is harder to control at the toe due to the curvature. I suspect the machine cannot "go around" the toe in a suitable steep enough turn.

I didn't post about it here, mostly because it doesn't bother me at all and I still love both pairs, but both my Bonafe MTOs (plum museum chukka and black stitch cap) have very sloppy welt stitching. I think the fact that the thread is black against a black welt makes it hard to notice unless you are specifically looking, so that's why I don't really care. But this case seems pretty noticeable to me.

I think it's one of the trade-offs you can expect for getting a hand welted shoe, hand made single run shoe at such an affordable price. It ain't gonna be perfect like Meccariello or Templeman. Vass also have their inconsistencies. Something's gotta give to get a truly handmade product with quality components at this price.

Having said all this, I would completely understand being irked at this welt stitch on this pair, considering the contrast thread and the fact that it's right up on the toe.

I don't think it is correct to say there has to be a trade off for hand welt at this price with sloppy work. There is a trade off to achieve this price and I am willing to bet it is in the materials and/or labour costs involved. However, how does sloppy stitching give any cost savings?

As a matter of fact, I hate people accepting the "Vass charm". If it is wrong specs, it is wrong. You can either accept it, return it or ask for a discount. But to brush it off as part of what you get due to the "hand-made" nature is imo not an acceptable reason.

For this case, a slightly messy stitching is probably ok for me. But this stitching is quite literally on the edge itself and who knows whether it will have any issues after a while? I think the glue would probably be sufficient to hold the outsole but if the thread starts fraying, it is going to look horrible as well.

Anyway, I will take this up via email rather than clog up this thread...

 

[Leaves]

I'm trying to gauge interest in this style for a GMTO - I think it's a superb style! The only thing I want to change is to replace the top part and make it up in black suede instead. Any takers?

Price including VAT : 9000 SEK
Price ex VAT: 7200 SEK ($865)
Delivery time: 4-6 months
Materials: Black Ostrich with Black Suede shaft - all details exactly as pictured but with Black Suede shaft.

 

[member2000r]

May I know why suede is preferred? Is peccary not good for shaft?

 

[Leaves]



May I know why suede is preferred? Is peccary not good for shaft?

Nah, it was just my personal preference but I can go with either.

 

[Iyor]

Would you consider doing it with a plain toe? Which last?

 

[bloodyj13]

I'm trying to gauge interest in this style for a GMTO - I think it's a superb style! The only thing I want to change is to replace the top part and make it up in black suede instead. Any takers?

Price including VAT : 9000 SEK
Price ex VAT: 7200 SEK ($865)
Delivery time: 4-6 months
Materials: Black Ostrich with Black Suede shaft - all details exactly as pictured but with Black Suede shaft.

I'm in! both plain toe or cap toe are fine with me, for leather of top part, either suede or calf is ok!

 

[Jacke]

Would you consider doing it with a plain toe? Which last?

+1 on this.

What sole is it going to be?

 

[Leaves]



+1 on this.

What sole is it going to be?

I'm open to just about any sole, as long as it's not too clunky.

As for last I was thinking 74945.

I'm not sure I would want it as a plain toe though. Is this a deal breaker for anyone?

 

[someoldlady91]

I'm probably down for it. I prefer to not have a leather sole.

Could you also list what was agreed upon for the final makeup? Thanks!

 

[watchidiot]

Finally got the chance to shoot some pictures of the EB reh lama + bergeronette button boots. Better late than never.

 

[Cleav]

Very nice @watchidiot

 

[Newcomer]

Never thought I would say it, but I am starting to want a pair of button boots.