Sartoria Partenopea quality

[Lev Vyacheslavovich]

Hello, I am considering to purchase a jacket from sartoria partenopea. I am wondering about the brand's quality ( handwork, construction, etc.) and the difference between quality between the black label and red label. I've heard that SP was owned by Angelo Blasi and his son Mauro, but later in the brand's timeline it was co-owned by another company, which lead to some corners being cut in terms of quality. Was the black label before the co-ownership?

 

[dragon8]

I believe SP is no longer in business. There was some chatter about Mauro reviving the brand but don't know what came of that.

 

[Shen]

Hey!

Yeah, I am not sure if the quality differs between the jackets (would not say that any of the ones I have seen is bad). However, the amount of handwork differs as does the construction to some degree. Most of the ones I have seen has been lightly padded, whereas one or two has had more structure to it (I prefer the less structured ones). Usually they feature quite a lot of handwork.

As far as I know, the label became co-owned by someone else around 2010, which is also when I believe they switched to the purple/red label. This is also when some say that quality started decreasing, I cannot really say to what extent this is true.

Mauro Blasi has set up a new business which seem to be reminiscent of the old SP: https://mauroblasi.it/en/

 

[Lev Vyacheslavovich]

Ok I see, I bought a brown jacket from the black label and it looks nice. I also see that it has some pick stitching and hand made buttonholes.I got it from sartoriale. Thanks for the replies!

 

[Stilig]

I know Mauro Blasi, and this is the story as I understand it:

Sartoria Partenopea was founded by Mauro's dad Angelo Blasi. When Mauro grew up he joined his dad in the business.

Somewhere ~2010 give or take a few years, a private equity investor bought a large stake of the company with the intent to professionalize management and to help them grow internationally. Mauro and his father were still very much part of the company's management, more focusing on tailoring, sales, etc.

After a while, the relationship with the new investors went downhill, as they wanted to make cuts in production quality and take other measures to increase margins that the Blasi family deemed unacceptable. After some legal (but rather immoral) maneuvers by the investors, the Blasi family was eventually forced to give up their stake.

Mauro Blasi set up his own brand, grabbing some of the best tailors at Partenopea, and using their old patterns. So if you want a "real" Sartoria Partenopea garment today, you go to Mauro Blasi. At the same, Sartoria Partenopea continued to operate under the management of the private equity company. As planned, they cut production quality. If I understand things correctly they used quite a few factories throughout the years they operated, with varying quality. Some were actually very good, while others were less impressive.

After a few years of unsuccessfully trying to increase margins with an inferior product, Sartoria Partenopea went under. During this time Mauro and his father (until the time he passed away) fought the investment company for the rights to the Sartoria Partenopea name. Mauro was able to win a legal case in 2019 that again granted the Blasi family the rights to the Partenopea brand. Currently, no garments are being produced under the name but I'm sure that there will be someday in the future.

 

[coolarrow]

I have a couple of S Partenopea pieces. One with a black label the other with purple label. Really happy with the quality. Also, squarely in the middle between fashion forward and old school. Pretty sure there are a few left on the bay.

 

[MarkWinter]

Ok I see, I bought a brown jacket from the black label and it looks nice. I also see that it has some pick stitching and hand made buttonholes.I got it from sartoriale. Thanks for the replies!

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Thank you for your purchase. We have been selling Partenopea for many years. We always found their tailoring to be well-made with nice styling and fabric selection. We didn't buy anything after the Blasi family was out of the company.

 

[MarkWinter]

I have a couple of S Partenopea pieces. One with a black label the other with purple label. Really happy with the quality. Also, squarely in the middle between fashion forward and old school. Pretty sure there are a few left on the bay.

We still have a great selection of products both on Ebay and on www.sartoriale.com