Riccardo Bestetti Bespoke projects.

[j ingevaldsson]



I have tried to email du Puy by using the contact link on the Tannery du Puy webpage but the email comes back as unrouteable.

I guess you need to be there.

Yeah, after Hermés and JM Weston bought up D'Annonay and Du Puy it seems to be harder for small makers to get a hold of their stuff, if you don't go there directly. I'm not sure which of them, but think it is D'Annonay, that you now have to order stupidly large amounts, and pay all up front, if you are to order from them without visiting them and buying directly.

 

[agedashidofu]



Yeah, after Hermés and JM Weston bought up D'Annonay and Du Puy it seems to be harder for small makers to get a hold of their stuff, if you don't go there directly. I'm not sure which of them, but think it was D'Annonay, that you now have to order stupidly large amounts, and pay all up front, if you were to order from them without visiting them and buying directly.

Curse monopoly! The world needs more open trade & competition...

Speaking of which, the first pair you had Bestetti made, was that crust or aniline?

Thx again ;-)

 

[j ingevaldsson]



Curse monopoly! The world needs more open trade & competition...

Speaking of which, the first pair you had Bestetti made, was that crust or aniline?

Thx again ;-)

Yes it's a shame.

Crust. All MTO and Novecento is in crust, unless you specify aniline.

 

[meister]



Big spender! Not really. Just have one passion and it is fine shoes!

A great passion. Wearable art.

 

[PCK1]

Hello from Moskva gentlemen. These shoes are just so beautiful. The large scale are really nice touch. Not the small female scale. Is there maybe a store in Moskva that sell these shoes? I am in love. They will be perfect with my Tom Ford suit and Hublot watch. Thank you for posting this. I will read the pictures here more. Just WOW

No store in the world carry those shoes because they are bespoke...get on a plane to Italy and wait a year and you can have a pair...

 

[C&A]

Hello from Moskva gentlemen. These shoes are just so beautiful. The large scale are really nice touch. Not the small female scale. Is there maybe a store in Moskva that sell these shoes? I am in love. They will be perfect with my Tom Ford suit and Hublot watch. Thank you for posting this. I will read the pictures here more. Just WOW

No store in the world carry those shoes because they are bespoke...get on a plane to Italy and wait a year and you can have a pair...

That is right @PCK1. But there is the possibility of buying RTW from shops. For instance Sir Max here in the Netherlands and a Swedish shop that was mentioned by @j ingevaldsson somewhere up thread. And I see pictures of RTW Bestetti shoes on the tumblr of Bntailor in Korea. It would not surprise me if there is a shop in Moscow that carries his RTW. Also Riccardo does semi-bespoke via email (Novecento) for which you can email him. For true bespoke you have to visit him or be lucky enough to attend a trunk show. But you can get a great shoe with all the Bestetti aesthetics when you opt for his Novecento line.

 

[Gianni Cerutti]

And here is my second test of my bird Bestetti. Within 10 days you will see the finished shoe. Bestetti must change a few small discomfort but the shoe is perfect. And comfort is really impressive. I can't wait now show you the finished shoes.

And as soon as I have a moment of time there also showed other pictures of the tests and shoes finished beautiful.

And the color of my Gladietor has changed yet. I can't wait to show you when it is finished.

 

[DWFII]



The large scale are really nice touch. Not the small female scale.

Just for your information...the small tiles (scales) come from the flanks and bell ...they are not "female scales." The large tiles are tail. The gender of the animal has very little to do with it.

 

[DWFII]



Thanks you for explening DWFII. But I mean with my post is that I believe the small scale good for feet of woman. Big scale good for feet of man. Is it more elegant like that. I think also this is picture that Mr. Bestetti have in his mind when creating these shoe.

I see...well, I guess it's a matter of opinion that large tiles are more elegant for men than small tiles. Certainly among shoemakers and those who use alligator and crocodile leather, smaller is better. Smaller tiles come from areas of the hide that is generally considered prime--the best--no matter whether the shoes are for men or women. And tail has always been considered waste simply because it was so rough (by comparison) and stiff.

That said (and no offence), larger, wider, rougher is sort of a distinguishing aspect of Eastern European/Austro-Hungarian shoes so perhaps it's cross-cultural.

 

[diadem]

Quote:
Er, no...If I read DWFII's post correctly, small and large scales can both come from the same hide, just different parts of it. So the price for the hide will be the same.

 

[DWFII]



Quote:
Er, no...If I read DWFII's post correctly, small and large scales can both come from the same hide, just different parts of it. So the price for the hide will be the same.

That's right.

 

[VRaivio]

In Russia, the crocodile skin wears your manly feet.

 

[usctrojans31]



In Russia, the crocodile skin wears your manly feet.

Styleforum + Yakov Smirnoff = Win

 

[Roy]



Quote:
Er, no...If I read DWFII's post correctly, small and large scales can both come from the same hide, just different parts of it. So the price for the hide will be the same.

Normally the tail (large scales) will be cheaper than throat (smaller scales).

 

[DWFII]



Sorry to burst the emerekan bubble. No offense. I like the interaction between the cultures. The hide is of course one prize.

But the tail is much less wide then the belly. A part from the tail with the big scales will therefore cost more than from the belly.

It doesn't have anything to do with being American or Russian. Nor even what "school" of shoemaking you adhere to--although I, personally, tend to favour British and Western European styles and techniques...they're so much more refined and evolved.

But if you're not a shoemaker or someone who makes items out of croc, you probably don't know how these hides are sold. In fact, both alligator and crocodile is sold by the cm--as measured across the belly of the hide. It's not how long the animal is or even how many square feet or meters is in the hide. Sold like this, the tail is really incidental. In fact, I doubt you will find too many (if any) tanners or wholesalers of croc that sell just the tails. You're buying the belly, in other words.

And to get a pattern piece out of the tail...which is the coarsest of the leather on a a croc or gator...means that you've bought a fairly large animal and probably already gotten at least one pair if not two pairs of shoes from the belly. Which, in turn, means the hide is already paid for and the tail is thus the cheapest part of the animal.

To say that because the tail is smaller than the belly, it is therefore more expensive, is to completely misunderstand the process and the leather. By that logic the legs...being really small...would be the most expensive of all.

PS...it has nothing to do with being "budget" or not, although you could reasonably make the case that since several other pairs have already been made from the belly, the tail is essentially free and is gravy for the maker.

But more to the point, someone...probably very like yourself...simply liked the large coarse tiles better than the small ones. Why shouldn't the maker use that leather if he has a customer for it...and make an additional, unlooked for, profit?