RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

[BAK]

@nikolau - You are correct, they were made by Rancourt.

@Bakes11771 - Rancourt has had a Blake stitching machine for awhile (approximately 15 years). Back when the Rancourt factory was still the AE factory Nordstrom approached AE about making shoes under Nordstrom's house label Façconable. Instead of making them as welted shoes in Wisconsin, they all agreed to make them with Blake construction in Maine if Nordstrom would purchase the Blake equipment. They did and the AE/Rancourt factory built some Façconable shoes for awhile (I don't think that program lasted very long though). If you look on eBay you can find several Façconable shoes available for sale that are "Made in USA", and you'll notice the patterns are unmistakably AE (but Blake-contructed with the Façconable label).

Incidentally they also made some handsewns under the Façconable label. If anyone's an 11.5B this is a good buy.

 

[Bakes11771]

Hi @Bakes11771. The Alden, AE, and Rancourt shell cordovan longwings all cost the same (+/- $100-$125). Rancourt have a rather unique brogue style but their factory edge dressing isn’t super to my taste.

Would you say there’s a big difference in quality of construction?

Depends on what you mean by "big".

For me, the difference is worth paying an extra $125, but perhaps you are not as discerning.

I'm not sure exactly what it is, perhaps it's the leather that they use for their soles, but the leather soles on the Rancourts leave a lot to be desired, for me. They just feel "cheap" under your feet, compared to the Aldens.

The Aldens have a steel shank embedded in a hot-cork footbed. The cork will conform to the bottom of your foot after a few wearings. They use pretty good leather for their soles, too. To be honest, they aren't THAT comfortable to me. They are kind of hard under my foot, like standing on concrete, but I'm a hard walker and have a substantial build. You can probably find more information on their methods from their website or YouTube.

Not much experience with AE, but the conversation has been had ad nauseam on StyleForum. Not terribly familiar with their construction, but I think it can be considered a bit of a compromise relative to the lengths that Alden goes to. Not to say that they are "bad", but they just aren't equivalent to Alden. However, I think they do use a nicer sole on their shell makeups than they do on their other offerings.

If the difference in price is not significant to you, I'd go with the Aldens. Part of that is because I like their shape and pattern the best. By the way, the Barrie last is an impossible fit for most. The heel is too wide. I'd rather have one of the other options than have a pair of Alden's that don't fit right. It's dumb to pay that much money for shoes and only be able to "make them work" with heal pads and insoles. Better try them on, and then be honest with yourself about it.

If you prefer the shape/pattern of one of the other options, I wouldn't fault you. None of them are bad options, but I think the Alden's are the most lovely of those three.

 

[Bakes11771]

@nikolau - You are correct, they were made by Rancourt.

@Bakes11771 - Rancourt has had a Blake stitching machine for awhile (approximately 15 years). Back when the Rancourt factory was still the AE factory Nordstrom approached AE about making shoes under Nordstrom's house label Façconable. Instead of making them as welted shoes in Wisconsin, they all agreed to make them with Blake construction in Maine if Nordstrom would purchase the Blake equipment. They did and the AE/Rancourt factory built some Façconable shoes for awhile (I don't think that program lasted very long though). If you look on eBay you can find several Façconable shoes available for sale that are "Made in USA", and you'll notice the patterns are unmistakably AE (but Blake-contructed with the Façconable label).

Oh, I didn't realize they already had the equipment because for a while post-AE they were only making handsewns, then made an Instagram post sometime in 2012 about a taking delivery of a new stitching machine, which coincided pretty closely with the start of their Blake offerings. I guess I drew a false inference and then remembered it as a fact. Thanks for clarifying that.

 

[BAK]

Oh, I didn't realize they already had the equipment because for a while post-AE they were only making handsewns, then made an Instagram post sometime in 2012 about a taking delivery of a new stitching machine, which coincided pretty closely with the start of their Blake offerings. I guess I drew a false inference and then remembered it as a fact. Thanks for clarifying that.

The acquisition of the 1868 machine was simply for nostalgia purchases. It's just a cool antique on display for decoration in their offices. It isn't used for production on the factory floor.

 

[Erikdayo]

Anyone have any broken in pictures of Rancourt's suede weltline loafers? Those will likely be my next pair of shoes. Black suede. I doubt I'd be unhappy with them, but it's always nice to see what I have to look forward to.

Also since they are lined should I go true to size or still 1/2 size down? My unlined eastports and cxl beefrolls are both 1/2 size down.

Originally I was going to get some AE tassel loafers in black, but I love the 114 last, trust Rancourt's qc a lot more, and think the suede weltline loafers would likely be wearable in more situations given my clothing is on the more casual side overall.

 

[madhat]

Anyone have any broken in pictures of Rancourt's suede weltline loafers? Those will likely be my next pair of shoes. Black suede. I doubt I'd be unhappy with them, but it's always nice to see what I have to look forward to.

Also since they are lined should I go true to size or still 1/2 size down? My unlined eastports and cxl beefrolls are both 1/2 size down.

Originally I was going to get some AE tassel loafers in black, but I love the 114 last, trust Rancourt's qc a lot more, and think the suede weltline loafers would likely be wearable in more situations given my clothing is on the more casual side overall.

Man. I didn't realize that! That's a lot more simple than dyeing your own.
@ELClodge might like to hear this?

 

[ELClodge]

Man. I didn't realize that! That's a lot more simple than dyeing your own.
@ELClodge might like to hear this?

That’s awesome, and it gave me the idea to check out their custom make up options. Unfortunately, no black suede, but this make up gives me great hope.

 

[madhat]

That’s awesome, and it gave me the idea to check out their custom make up options. Unfortunately, no black suede, but this make up gives me great hope.

If you contact them directly, I bet they could work with you. My bison boots weren't in the website custom tool. Neither were there majority of @BagleyBrown or @mdubs models

 

[mdubs]

That’s awesome, and it gave me the idea to check out their custom make up options. Unfortunately, no black suede, but this make up gives me great hope.

If you contact them directly, I bet they could work with you. My bison boots weren't in the website custom tool. Neither were there majority of @BagleyBrown or @mdubs models

Call them. Let me know if you want the direct number to the factory. The limitations of what they can do is mainly limited by your creativity and patience. I have two more MTOs going right now and a few waiting patiently for non-standard Shell shades.

Their online tool is more of a guide of what is possible because they really cannot program every potential option into the tool.

-Mike

 

[Erikdayo]

That’s awesome, and it gave me the idea to check out their custom make up options. Unfortunately, no black suede, but this make up gives me great hope.

Glad to unintentionally help. I have heard Rancourt is very accommodating so hopefully they can do something for you.

 

[Erikdayo]

Got the black suede weltlines ordered. I love Rancourt loafers so much. Never did I expect them to be my favorite type of footwear. I think I'm all set for now with 3 pairs of loafers, but the flint kudu beefrolls also look very appealing.

 

[norymeoreason41]

Any thoughts on the traveler ranger-moc? I'm considering them but haven't seen much feedback, real world pics, etc.: https://www.rancourtandcompany.com/traveler-ranger-moc-chromexcel.html

 

[smartbrother]

Any thoughts on the traveler ranger-moc? I'm considering them but haven't seen much feedback, real world pics, etc.: https://www.rancourtandcompany.com/traveler-ranger-moc-chromexcel.html

I have a few. Love them.

 

[norymeoreason41]

I have a few. Love them.

View attachment 1387222 View attachment 1387223 View attachment 1387224 View attachment 1387225

Love the brown in the top pic!

 

[smartbrother]

Love the brown in the top pic!

That one is flint kudu.