Quintessential Knit Ties: Comprehensive Discussion & Appreciation

[Spaghettimatt]

So nobody has found a source for custom length knit ties?

Is it possible to shorten a knit tie?

 

[Sam Hober]

In theory it can be done - but it would be difficult to duplicate the same end finish.

 

[Jimmy Balantyne]

Great thread. Love a knitted tie.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @Jnarcane,

Sozzi's standard width in the case of flat-end knit ties is 6.5cm, hence a lot of vendors - of this forum as well - opted for it. There was/is no surcharge from the part of the maker in the case of a 7.0cm width order (I have personally checked it), only just a preference, convenience, or lack of topical knowledge of the said vendors.

Even this 0.5cm does make a difference, especially at the tapering of the tie towards the knot, and there, lies the issue of disharmony: the tie at that particular area (just before the knot) is becoming especially slim in relation to the size of the knot. It was an issue that I once raised to one Affiliate Vendor here, they did accept its logic, but continued by their own inertia.

Best,

Dimitris


PS
Hi David (@Sam Hober), it's been a while, what do you say on this?

 

[Sam Hober]

Dimitris,

An interesting thought about knit ties.

I don't think it is as simple as it seems to be.

Normally, clothing companies are not in the custom clothing business these days - a 100 years ago much more common of course...

So tie sellers will typically have a range of designs and colors and sizes each season and they will usually make good money doing this. They pick what is most popular and are not concerned about small size differences because most of their customers are not concerned about it.

So even if their knit tie supplier had machines set to different widths they are not interested. as for costs I don't know as I have not been able to buy flat knit silk yet suitable for custom knit ties - everyone I have spoken to creates the knits as tubes - like socks which they turn into ties. if the price was the same there still would be most likely be minimum order amounts so not really no extra charge.

As to taper .5cm is less than 1/4 of an inch and it will not make a big difference. If you have really good eyesight you will see it.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear David (@Sam Hober),

I always appreciate your informed opinion and comments based on technical knowledge and experience from the field, that you generously share with all us here.

In the outset of this Thread I have mentioned that I only have Sozzi knit ties in my collection (this is still the case), and yes they do have these more than 100-year old knitting equipment in Italy (same age with the Co. itself), as it is also known that they started by producing socks, still are, and these socks are among the best in the market.

A personal anecdote: one of the triplet zig-zag knit ties that I ordered and received from Sozzi itself back in the day, immediately stroke me as somehow different: it was 3mm slimmer, I couldn't help myself continuously noticing this difference so it became a nice gift to my son. Of course I re-ordered it along with 2 more from a then Affiliate Vendor of this Forum (Henry Carter in Australia) who took photos of each tie with a measuring tape on them indicating and proving a sharp 7cm of width; still having these photos.

Finally, the more pronounced difference comes from the knit ties where by the nature of the material or its treatment the knot is bigger: wool/cashmere ones by Sozzi which I have, and the "crunchy" silk ones by the German maker Ascot which Shibumi & other vendors carry, unfortunately all re-branded and at an unbecoming width of 6.0cm (this maker's standard). Look what I mean:

In contrast, the Sozzi solid silk ones produce a balanced knot in relation to the "upper body" of the tie, whereas the respective zig-zag ones, being almost like lace, produce a quite smaller knot; one may go for a double one, not me.

My very best,

Dimitris

 

[Sam Hober]

Dimitris,

Your post is interesting - so you are saying that you don't like the crunchy finish of Ascot?

It would be good to see photos together in your post of what you like and don't like. To better understand your preference.

I really don't know much about knits at all as we don't make ties from knit fabrics. One day I hope to find a source for flat knit silk suitable for ties then we will start making custom made knit ties and you can have any shape that you like - smiling.

I am personally not a fan of flat edges but on occasion we make them with grenadine silk for those who like the casual look.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear David (@Sam Hober),

I am sorry if that was my delivered message. Although I obviously do not have any "crie de la soie" knit tie from Ascot, I like them AND had plans to buy couple of them; the specs were not the right ones for me.

If I were a vendor I would have ordered them only 7cm wide (AFAIK there is one on-line vendor in the US who has ordered them as such) as I find this width satisfying the "golden rule": not too slim, and at the same time, different from the popular 8.0cm width existing in the grenadine and other non-knit ties. I would have left the brand's label (Ascot) because I have an utmost respect to the provenance of a garment or accessory and finally would have instructed the maker to "trim" a bit the part of the tie where the knot is done: this way a) the tie would have been wider at the tapered part just before the knot, and b) the knot would have been smaller, a double benefit in terms of symmetry and its concomitant, beauty.

If you just limit my posted image in your screen size with the top part in full and the rest of it up to the lower sceen limit (see my image below), it produces an hourglass figure, and this is only becoming on women..., not the upper part of ties!

As far as flat/square edges are concerned, I think that we've said couple of things 6 years ago in this Thread (being resurrected, I re-read it), so my position is that this is a nice feature of knit ties and has to stay only there, except, perhaps, special purpose/occasion non-knit ones which are a different story altogether.

My very best,

Dimitris


PS
Samantha must be old enough now to take responsibility on the future knit tie product line of your business!

 

[Sam Hober]

Dimitris,

I don't have any Ascot ties but the woman who runs the company is very friendly and knows a lot about silk. She is also adventurous and travels to places like Mongolia for fabric.

From what she told me I don't see how the shape can be changed - not easily and without cost anyway... But maybe I misunderstood her?

For us with grenadine silk we can easily change the tie shape as requested because we are working with flat silk rather than a tube. - so we have a lot of flexibility.

Samantha is now almost 17 and knows everything about everything or so she tells me... Those of you out there with teenagers will know exactly what I am talking about.

She has studied computer science in high school so knows how to code and use PhotoShop etc - much more than I do. But I think she needs to work somewhere else for a while after college before she takes over. This seems to be the age-old way to handle family businesses. But lets see what happens...

 

[edinatlanta]

I have several. A couple from Sid Mashburn, one from Panta, one from Amazon that I love, one from @Kent Wang that always gets compliments, and I think one other. Can be worn any time. Honestly, Sid is right that a knit tie is more versatile than any other.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

FWIW I am trying to fill some gaps, I am fancying Wool/Cashmere or even 100%Cashmere ones - as lot of us here - I very much like seasonal knit ties; Sozzi would be a safe choice as I already have two 70%WO-30%WS from NMWA, but I see the direction of things and Greg, being not only a very nice but also a smart fellow, puts more weight on the less sartorial side of clothing right now.

Another choice might be Calabrese 1924, an old company as well, I do like to endorse old companies which have endured through the passage of time. Especially new members of this Forum, or in this Thread may go back just few pages and take a look at old(er) Calabrese offerings, they seem quite nice, still I haven't yet seen any IRL.

If things return a bit to normality, perhaps we may able to persuade an AV to get in touch with any of these companies and should they go for flat-end 7.0cm w/ the maker's label, they have already acquired a good, loyal customer!

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Bespoke DJP]

David,

As before, I really enjoy these small pieces of communication in a topic of mutual interest, especially within the boundaries of a very hospitable Forum!

Samantha already knows a lot of things better than we do, my children are no more teenagers, yet I see exactly what you mean. I believe that she will curve her own strategy and I sincerely hope that everything will evolve smoothly and favorably in her big journey!

My very best,

Dimitris

 

[emptym]

Would anyone happen to know of a source for a green knit tie with cream dots? Oxford Rowe had one for a great price (although the dots may have been white): https://oxfordrowe.com/collections/all-products/products/polka-dot-silk-knit-tie-green
I've been looking for one for a while. Maybe NMWA could order that combo from Sozzi, @gdl203? Or @Kent Wang?

I wear a knit tie most of time when I'm wearing a tie. Here's mine, some of which were my dad's:

Top row, l to r: Difou, unknown vintage, J. Press rayon blend (my favorite tie for the slim knot it makes), RL x3, MCM Studio x 3, Land's End, Tie Bar, EG Cappelli, Saks house label, William Crabtree.

Second row: Difou x2, Charvet, Land's End, Charvet (The Charvets have that dense, crunchy knit that people love, but imo the knot is too wide. I should sell them.), J. Crew, Howard Yount, unknown vintage, Woolrich, Howard Yount, Pierre Cardin, and Wembly.

 

[Sam Hober]

EmptyM,

A great collection!

 

[Sam Hober]

David,

As before, I really enjoy these small pieces of communication in a topic of mutual interest, especially within the boundaries of a very hospitable Forum!

Samantha already knows a lot of things better than we do, my children are no more teenagers, yet I see exactly what you mean. I believe that she will curve her own strategy and I sincerely hope that everything will evolve smoothly and favorably in her big journey!

My very best,

Dimitris

Dimitris,

Thank you for your kind words!

I am certain all will end well - not completely sure about the smoothly part - smiling...