Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Sreezy36]

After putting in a new commission with my tailor and walking through some of the details I wanted, in retrospect I thought to myself that I may of been too particular about things such as a higher collar, Longer length, slightly more shoulder extension, etc compared to my previous suit.

At what stage do you guys think its “micromanaging a tailor” vs being particular about details you want?

Great question!

I defer to others on this topic but I can't wait to hear other opinions.

I wonder what @Despos perspective is on this matter?

 

[tdang]

Other than occasionally confirming with my tailor whether a certain area feels tight, I offer no instructions and express no wishes to have anything that is not what he deems to be in good taste, and usually my tailors have a clear idea of the look they want to dress their customers in.

For me, the deliberation ends when I’ve decided to go to a certain maker. After that he takes the wheel, even for cloth selections in a lot of cases - I want him to work with the fabrics that he likes to work with. In other words, I want the tailor, not the details.

To each their own, of course. I completely get those who delight in the infinite possibilities that are possible with bespoke and the active involvement in manipulating that geometry of choices. I treat going to a tailor more like a barber visit or a spa session - I’m there to be taken care of.

 

[jonathanS]

Other than occasionally confirming with my tailor whether a certain area feels tight, I offer no instructions and express no wishes to have anything that is not what he deems to be in good taste, and usually my tailors have a clear idea of the look they want to dress their customers in.

For me, the deliberation ends when I’ve decided to go to a certain maker. After that he takes the wheel, even for cloth selections in a lot of cases - I want him to work with the fabrics that he likes to work with. In other words, I want the tailor, not the details.

To each their own, of course. I completely get those who delight in the infinite possibilities that are possible with bespoke and the active involvement in manipulating that geometry of choices. I treat going to a tailor more like a barber visit or a spa session - I’m there to be taken care of.

I’m with dang on this one, I wouldn’t ask a Napoli tailor for an extended shoulder. I just how up and let him cook! I give the fabric and he does the rest in most case.

if a Napoli tailor wants a closed or open seam shoulder, I let him decide that. The only time I’ve said something was when the chest was too tight on a first order, so I used photos to point it out before placing another order.

 

[ppk]

X-Post from 'HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)'

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...art-iv-starting-may-2014.394373/post-12067001

 

[mktitsworth]

After putting in a new commission with my tailor and walking through some of the details I wanted, in retrospect I thought to myself that I may of been too particular about things such as a higher collar, Longer length, slightly more shoulder extension, etc compared to my previous suit.

At what stage do you guys think its “micromanaging a tailor” vs being particular about details you want?

I think it depends on the tailor, for a couple of reasons. How well do you know the tailor? How long have you worked with them? What is your conversation with them like? How are you approaching the suggestions? Are you saying "Hey, reflecting on my previous jackets, I want X changes for Y purpose, what do you think?" or are you just making demands?

Actually, I think it comes down to that last question. If you're having a conversation with your tailor and you've got thoughts and reasons for the changes you'd like to make, but you're willing to listen to what they have to say as the subject matter expert, then I would say you are not micromanaging. Especially if when they go "I see what you're trying to accomplish, but it would be better accomplished through method Z" you are willing to listen.

 

[mktitsworth]

X-Post from 'HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)'

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...art-iv-starting-may-2014.394373/post-12067001

That is what we call 'lapel belly.'

 

[_AMD]

After putting in a new commission with my tailor and walking through some of the details I wanted, in retrospect I thought to myself that I may of been too particular about things such as a higher collar, Longer length, slightly more shoulder extension, etc compared to my previous suit.

At what stage do you guys think its “micromanaging a tailor” vs being particular about details you want?

Other than occasionally confirming with my tailor whether a certain area feels tight, I offer no instructions and express no wishes to have anything that is not what he deems to be in good taste, and usually my tailors have a clear idea of the look they want to dress their customers in.

For me, the deliberation ends when I’ve decided to go to a certain maker. After that he takes the wheel, even for cloth selections in a lot of cases - I want him to work with the fabrics that he likes to work with. In other words, I want the tailor, not the details.

To each their own, of course. I completely get those who delight in the infinite possibilities that are possible with bespoke and the active involvement in manipulating that geometry of choices. I treat going to a tailor more like a barber visit or a spa session - I’m there to be taken care of.

I take a similar approach as described by tdang. I trust my tailor implicitly and often defer to their recommendations when being asked about specs (pockets, buttons-qty and type, lapels, etc.). We have a fantastic personal relationship and I also really appreciate their eye for style, so that helps a lot. I typically describe the concept of what I am after and how I intend to use the garment and they come back with suggestions on cloth and specific details. I almost always agree with their suggestions in total.

I'm not sure how long you have been working with this tailor, but maybe you just need a little more time to develop a relationship where they know your personal style and you to trust their judgement?

 

[L.deJong]

After putting in a new commission with my tailor and walking through some of the details I wanted, in retrospect I thought to myself that I may of been too particular about things such as a higher collar, Longer length, slightly more shoulder extension, etc compared to my previous suit.

At what stage do you guys think its “micromanaging a tailor” vs being particular about details you want?

When you start asking your tailor to shorten the sleeves just 3mm no more no less
No just kidding, or am I? Yes that's exactly what I did with my luxire shirt adjustments, but tbh it turned out very nice (just received it, will post fit pics on the luxire thread after some washing).

Back to our question, so what is important is that you have good people skills, when you sugest something look at the response the tailor gives you. Does he hesitate, or is he enthusiasticly embracing your sugesting. It's all about knowing the tailor and what he likes and is comfortable making and what you like and are comfortable wearing. If you choose the tailor in that crossover area you are set and should not deviate too much, and also don't change your tailor because it's always a bit of trail and error the first couple of times, my first jacket and suit are far from perfect and get almost no wear. It's the same with pancakes the first couple are half baked but when the pans are hot and you know exactly how much batter to put in the pan you make them without any effort 👌

I have come to learn that you give some suggestions, if he likes it he will say yes, and if he doesn't you stick with his opinion. Also never do it over the phone or via whatsapp, thats a recipe for disaster, you need to communicate it in person.

And don't forget nothing is perfect, I have to remind myself that as well, for example sometimes you wear a dress shirt that shrunk just a tad less than the others so you show just a tad more cuff, it can annoying me but I shouldn't let it influence my emotions.
Same for tailoring, does it fit you, are you comfortable and does it look nice? That's paramount!

I remember a discussion with my tailor, I brought two heavy tweed jacketings from Lovat Mill to be made up. He loved the fabric and I could notice his eagerness to start working with it. I specified some details and he stopped admiring the cloth and without skipping a beat said I would go for flap pockets instead of patch pockets. I said really, are you sure and he just gave me a hand gesture and said: "basta cosi". Before you think he is just a harsh rough man, after that he started laughing and said it's the classic thing to do, and you like classic old-man clothes. I never looked back.

tldr: listen to your tailor, but only if he is wise and knowledgeable. If he is not run! You will only known if he is knowledgeable by trail and error, after that deviate just a little from his style.

 

[hitsuji]

When you start asking your tailor to shorten the sleeves just 3mm no more no less
No just kidding, or am I? Yes that's exactly what I did with my luxire shirt adjustments, but tbh it turned out very nice (just received it, will post fit pics on the luxire thread after some washing).

Back to our question, so what is important is that you have good people skills, when you sugest something look at the response the tailor gives you. Does he hesitate, or is he enthusiasticly embracing your sugesting. It's all about knowing the tailor and what he likes and is comfortable making and what you like and are comfortable wearing. If you choose the tailor in that crossover area you are set and should not deviate too much, and also don't change your tailor because it's always a bit of trail and error the first couple of times, my first jacket and suit are far from perfect and get almost no wear. It's the same with pancakes the first couple are half baked but when the pans are hot and you know exactly how much batter to put in the pan you make them without any effort 👌

I have come to learn that you give some suggestions, if he likes it he will say yes, and if he doesn't you stick with his opinion. Also never do it over the phone or via whatsapp, thats a recipe for disaster, you need to communicate it in person.

And don't forget nothing is perfect, I have to remind myself that as well, for example sometimes you wear a dress shirt that shrunk just a tad less than the others so you show just a tad more cuff, it can annoying me but I shouldn't let it influence my emotions.
Same for tailoring, does it fit you, are you comfortable and does it look nice? That's paramount!

I remember a discussion with my tailor, I brought two heavy tweed jacketings from Lovat Mill to be made up. He loved the fabric and I could notice his eagerness to start working with it. I specified some details and he stopped admiring the cloth and without skipping a beat said I would go for flap pockets instead of patch pockets. I said really, are you sure and he just gave me a hand gesture and said: "basta cosi". Before you think he is just a harsh rough man, after that he started laughing and said it's the classic thing to do, and you like classic old-man clothes. I never looked back.

tldr: listen to your tailor, but only if he is wise and knowledgeable. If he is not run! You will only known if he is knowledgeable by trail and error, after that deviate just a little from his style.

I think that is pretty much the approach I take with him.

He would suggest some features and ask me how I would feel about them, most of them, especially any mechanical ones, I leave to his discretion or if I ask for certain things, I'd ask for his opinion immediately after. For example, when I asked if he thought a more extended shoulder would be nicer, he immediately said no and I left it at that. When I mentioned my tastes changed to a higher collar he immediately wrote it down with a small smile so, I'd imagine I am not micromanaging although not as hands-off as much as other folks here.

 

[The Chai]

Askokey would not approve of those trousers!!!

LOL, I actually don't mind the Askokey styled trouser...if they were a touch slimmer...even that is too much Armani drape for me.

 

[epsilon22]

When you start asking your tailor to shorten the sleeves just 3mm no more no less
No just kidding, or am I? Yes that's exactly what I did with my luxire shirt adjustments, but tbh it turned out very nice (just received it, will post fit pics on the luxire thread after some washing).

Back to our question, so what is important is that you have good people skills, when you sugest something look at the response the tailor gives you. Does he hesitate, or is he enthusiasticly embracing your sugesting. It's all about knowing the tailor and what he likes and is comfortable making and what you like and are comfortable wearing. If you choose the tailor in that crossover area you are set and should not deviate too much, and also don't change your tailor because it's always a bit of trail and error the first couple of times, my first jacket and suit are far from perfect and get almost no wear. It's the same with pancakes the first couple are half baked but when the pans are hot and you know exactly how much batter to put in the pan you make them without any effort 👌

I have come to learn that you give some suggestions, if he likes it he will say yes, and if he doesn't you stick with his opinion. Also never do it over the phone or via whatsapp, thats a recipe for disaster, you need to communicate it in person.

And don't forget nothing is perfect, I have to remind myself that as well, for example sometimes you wear a dress shirt that shrunk just a tad less than the others so you show just a tad more cuff, it can annoying me but I shouldn't let it influence my emotions.
Same for tailoring, does it fit you, are you comfortable and does it look nice? That's paramount!

I remember a discussion with my tailor, I brought two heavy tweed jacketings from Lovat Mill to be made up. He loved the fabric and I could notice his eagerness to start working with it. I specified some details and he stopped admiring the cloth and without skipping a beat said I would go for flap pockets instead of patch pockets. I said really, are you sure and he just gave me a hand gesture and said: "basta cosi". Before you think he is just a harsh rough man, after that he started laughing and said it's the classic thing to do, and you like classic old-man clothes. I never looked back.

tldr: listen to your tailor, but only if he is wise and knowledgeable. If he is not run! You will only known if he is knowledgeable by trail and error, after that deviate just a little from his style.

Just don't be like my young barely out of college self, bringing pics of James Bond to a tailor who mostly does Neapolitan style. I'm thankful he didn't kick me out immediately.

 

[The Chai]

Just don't be like my young barely out of college self, bringing pics of James Bond to a tailor who mostly does Neapolitan style. I'm thankful he didn't kick me out immediately.

If it is Sean Connery or Pierce Brosnan this is acceptable IMO...if it is Daniel Craig post Casino Royale - yes you deserve to be kicked out HAHA!!!

 

[ericgereghty]

LOL, I actually don't mind the Askokey styled trouser...if they were a touch slimmer...even that is too much Armani drape for me.

This is where I'm at. It's too much, clearly, but it's much closer to my ideal than not

 

[The Chai]

This is where I'm at. It's too much, clearly, but it's much closer to my ideal than not

My last few commissions I have pretty much told my tailor to copy the Askokey trouser, but less extreme and experimenting with a slight flare if the trousers are for Black Tie.

 

[mwebb113]

I'm planning on meeting with Sexton at their NYC trunk show next month for a Tuxedo for my wedding. Should Nina's departure as head cutter make me reconsider my choice?