Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[hitsuji]

Does anyone have any recommendations for bunches for odd trousers? Particularly for high summer and tropical/humid climates.

Dugdale tropicalair (although they are releasing a successor to the bunch called tropical breeze) and Fox Air are top notch.

HFW Fresco and Standeven explorer I haven’t used but I hear good things about

 

[Milten]

I am looking for heavy flannel (18 oz or more) Do you know any mills selling these besides fox flannels and holland and sherry?

 

[CLH03]

I am looking for heavy flannel (18 oz or more) Do you know any mills selling these besides fox flannels and holland and sherry?

Standeven Stonedale is pretty hefty but a little short of 18 oz. Very small market for that stuff. Minnis has some nice hefty English flannel as well if you haven’t looked at them yet.

 

[single_origin]

I'm looking for a summer jacketing in wool, wool blend or silk/linen for a hot and humid climate.

In the real world, is there much of a difference in terms of breathability of fabrics in the low 200gr/m range vs the high 200s/low 300s? E.g. 230g vs 280-310.

What about the difference between British made fabrics vs Italian? I notice the British fabrics tend to feel stronger vs the Italian fabrics. Is it because British fabrics are woven more tightly than Italian? Does that mean that, for a given weight and fabric composition, British fabrics wear hotter than Italian?

 

[camez_]

Dugdale tropicalair (although they are releasing a successor to the bunch called tropical breeze) and Fox Air are top notch.

HFW Fresco and Standeven explorer I haven’t used but I hear good things about

to add
loro piana jackets & trousers, sopra visso
caccioppoli jackets & trousers, worsted & flannels II
drapers ascot, three kings

 

[camez_]

I'm looking for a summer jacketing in wool, wool blend or silk/linen for a hot and humid climate.

In the real world, is there much of a difference in terms of breathability of fabrics in the low 200gr/m range vs the high 200s/low 300s? E.g. 230g vs 280-310.

What about the difference between British made fabrics vs Italian? I notice the British fabrics tend to feel stronger vs the Italian fabrics. Is it because British fabrics are woven more tightly than Italian? Does that mean that, for a given weight and fabric composition, British fabrics wear hotter than Italian?

the weight makes a bit of a difference but it's not as huge as some people might wish for

I usually recommend the Montecarlo range (100% wool, hopsack, 280g) from Drapers/VBC but you could go with any Italian hopsack, they usually are quite similar (delfino, drago, etc)

I also like LPs wsl blends, the weave is open enough to let the cloth breath and not sufficate you
they run between 240g and 280g iirc

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Standeven Glenesk wool/cashmere

This stuff feels fantastic.

 

[lordsuperb]

Standeven Glenesk wool/cashmere
View attachment 2310819
This stuff feels fantastic.

This is what you should be wearing....

Holland & Sherry

Holland & Sherry's Cashmere Pure Opulence make the warmest and most comfortable garments ever worn.

apparel.hollandandsherry.com

 

[Connemara]

Standeven Glenesk wool/cashmere
View attachment 2310819
This stuff feels fantastic.

It’s really nice cloth. I’m going to order a jacket in Glenesk this summer, for wear next fall/winter. Just have to figure out which one to go with.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

This is what you should be wearing....

Holland & Sherry

Holland & Sherry's Cashmere Pure Opulence make the warmest and most comfortable garments ever worn.

apparel.hollandandsherry.com

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

It’s really nice cloth. I’m going to order a jacket in Glenesk this summer, for wear next fall/winter. Just have to figure out which one to go with.

That whole book is awesome. Also really liked this one.

 

[hpreston]

That whole book is awesome. Also really liked this one.
View attachment 2310903

Yeah! I browsed after your first post… and this one caught my eye.

 

[twuthetiger]

Usually just go with what my tailor has, but just got these lovely tweeds from Campbell's for fun. It is actually funny they send me the wrong one... hoepfully I'll get the correct one soon

 

[single_origin]

What do you guys think of an 80% silk, 20% linen fabric, 280g, for use as a summer fabric in a hot and humid climate?

 

[The Chai]

What do you guys think of an 80% silk, 20% linen fabric, 280g, for use as a summer fabric in a hot and humid climate?

yes purchase!