Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[hitsuji]

A bit of belly...

When I read the first seven words I was like depends on the lady's character, but then read it was for lapels...

I mean for both - I think a little belly wouldn’t be bad at all, some may prefer it even

 

[L.deJong]

I mean for both - I think a little belly wouldn’t be bad at all, some may prefer it even

Hahaha, I do not really care much as long as both have a good character that I can align with. I mean when we get old the chance of one getting heavier is high anyway, but character will stay more in place. Then again I have made many judgements on one's character that where horribly misplaced, and not in a good way. We live and (hopefully) learn.

This is also true for a DB bellied lapel, it can look amazing or horrible, a straight lapel could too. I may want to try a straighter lapel for my next DB suit, just to see how it looks on me.

 

[The Chai]

Do you folks prefer a little belly when it comes to your DB lapels or mostly straight?

I think peaks in general look better with a little belly.

 

[jonathanS]

I mean for both - I think a little belly wouldn’t be bad at all, some may prefer it even

A little bit is fine. Not too much.

But as for lapels, I think it really depends upon the style. To me, too extreme on either end is no good. Some have too much belly. Others have too little.

Silhouette matters just as much. Look at liverano. They have less belly on their lapel. I think to say one way or another is a gross generalization.

 

[DorianGreen]

I think that a bellied lapel suits well a DB style. I also like a more straight lapel though.

 

[hitsuji]

I think that a bellied lapel suits well a DB style. I also like a more straight lapel though.

View attachment 2262237 View attachment 2262239 View attachment 2262241

Yes a little is probably safest, the 3rd picture is quite nice. Max Mogg and Edward Sexton usually go for really big bellied lapels and b&tailor go for razor sharp ones from what I’ve seen

 

[JohnStrong]

Then we are in the same city. The overall consensus is majority of the shop operated by young sartorial guys are only doing sale (getting your measurement, taking note on your preferred design, etc.) and outsources the cutting to others. As rule of thumb, I would look for shop who do most the job themselves i/o outsourcing.

Pham Brothers has a solid reputation in the sartorial community in Hanoi. Its relative shop - Carlos Pham, is also very reputable (even though they don't want to be mentioned together in a same sentence).

The Armoury is okay per my experience. Had a pair of trousers and chinos made there earlier but it took a long time to finish as there are a lot of thing needed to be fix from he 1st fitting. But Tung is a very nice guys and interesting to talk with.

Vietnams Bespoke Shop (VBS) quality was wonderful before 2019. However, when they change the makers of their suit, the quality is going down as I heard. Their style/ fabric choice is still very interesting tho.

For now, the ones that has a very very solid reputation and I would recommend from my and my friends experience are:
Antonio de Torres (pricey, starting from USD 1000 afaik)
Sir Tailor (pricey, starting from USD 1200)
Long Tailor (this is the best value for money, starting from USD 500) - This guy do everything himself and lots of pricey shop outsources to him. Turnover time is very long, might take few months to finish.
Hanoi Peak Bespoke (good value for money, price start around USD 300, fully canvased atm) - If you are into slimmer cut.
H Tailor (good value for money, starting from USD 300) - If you are into fuller cut.

Just wondering if you're able to speak Vietnamese tho? As a lots of good tailor can only speak Vietnamese.

Hi Blacktaro!

Would you say Hanoi Peak Bespoke makes a true bespoke suit? I was just quoted $860 for a S110 VBC full canvas two piece suit. I like the photos of their suits they have on instagram, but I struggle trying to differentiate a true bespoke shop from the plethora of MTM medium to low quality operation run in Hanoi / Hoi An / HCM. $860 is a price I am happy to pay, (and a bargain compared to western pricing) especially for a true bespoke suit.

Lastly, can Hanoi Peak Bespoke be completely trusted to act in my best interest? Or is it up to me to monitor and verify on my own? Do I get a "special price" as a foreigner. Am I expected to negotiate, or since they are a premium operation, the prices are set and that would be insulting. (or worse, result in me receiving a poorer quality suit to match the negotiated price.)

Finally, would Sir Tailor produce a superior product to Hanoi Peak, or are their higher prices reflective of the wool quality they are willing to work with?

Thank you for your advice.

John

 

[brax]

Sahin Fidan and Sedat Selvi:
Loro Piana 450g overcoating wool - here as a DB jacket with metal buttons and Bateman Ogden - Russel Check from their glenhunt bunch - 874 - 500g

also some impressions from the front room and some other clients' commissions - including two jackets for @BespokeBeirut

Good stuff. Your tailor’s rug is great.

 

[brax]

As someone who's, let's just say, *familiar* with that finished Everest Doppio Uso you saw…I'll just say that, although I too generally have a preference for exactly the same type of buttons as you, I think Qemal's choice will grow on you!

Will we see an action shot in a few months?

 

[blacktaro]

Hi Blacktaro!

Would you say Hanoi Peak Bespoke makes a true bespoke suit? I was just quoted $860 for a S110 VBC full canvas two piece suit. I like the photos of their suits they have on instagram, but I struggle trying to differentiate a true bespoke shop from the plethora of MTM medium to low quality operation run in Hanoi / Hoi An / HCM. $860 is a price I am happy to pay, (and a bargain compared to western pricing) especially for a true bespoke suit.

Lastly, can Hanoi Peak Bespoke be completely trusted to act in my best interest? Or is it up to me to monitor and verify on my own? Do I get a "special price" as a foreigner. Am I expected to negotiate, or since they are a premium operation, the prices are set and that would be insulting. (or worse, result in me receiving a poorer quality suit to match the negotiated price.)

Finally, would Sir Tailor produce a superior product to Hanoi Peak, or are their higher prices reflective of the wool quality they are willing to work with?

Thank you for your advice.

John

Hi John,

My earlier post was long time ago so price have changed now. USD 810 or approx VND 22 mil. for two pieces made from VBC books is the same price I got last year (as a local VNese and a long time client). So your quoted price is fair.

They are fully bespoke and will cut your own pattern, you could customize any anything you want. As a rule of thumb for first bespoke suit, please do not deviate too far away from the house’s style.

Negotiation is easier before when the shop only has a small customer base (especially during covid). Nowadays, with inflation and it is closer to the holiday, it is much much harder. You could try but ymmv. Quality wise, the negotiated price doesn’t impact the your suit.

I have been using service from Hanoi Peak for awhile so occasionally I could get some treat (like free shirt made or they could alter my RTW suit from other brands for free) but it is not guarantee.

Sir advantages are they have a more varieties of fabric and they have been in business longer than most bespoke shop in Hanoi. Meanwhile, they do charge higher price.

A note I usually share to anyone making suit in Vietnam is to let the shop know exactly when you need the suit to be completed beforehand so they could plan ahead with all the fitting session.

 

[DorianGreen]

Yes a little is probably safest, the 3rd picture is quite nice. Max Mogg and Edward Sexton usually go for really big bellied lapels and b&tailor go for razor sharp ones from what I’ve seen

Here a great looking 6x1 DB jacket with a rather straight lapel by Sartoria Ripense.

 

[hitsuji]

Here a great looking 6x1 DB jacket with a rather straight lapel by Sartoria Ripense.

View attachment 2262837

That looks really good actually. I’m looking for a 6x1 closure so I’m going to show it to my tailor.

 

[jonathanS]

That looks really good actually. I’m looking for a 6x1 closure so I’m going to show it to my tailor.

🤦🏻‍♂️

Just go to ripense if you like that. Having another tailor emulate the work is a recipe for disaster.

DG showed a lot of photos to conclude silhouette matters. It’s not a one sized fits all thing.

You need to visit a tailor who you’re compatible with aesthetically.

 

[hitsuji]

🤦🏻‍♂️

Just go to ripense if you like that. Having another tailor emulate the work is a recipe for disaster.

DG showed a lot of photos to conclude silhouette matters. It’s not a one sized fits all thing.

You need to visit a tailor who you’re compatible with aesthetically.

I see your point but I am not brazingly saying “copy this for me” Rather showing the tailor a collection of jackets/designs I find nice and then asking for his opinion on it. “oh i like a high collar, 6x1 button enclosure” and we can work on what his style would be.

I have a good relationship with him where he can just say “thats not going to work for you” and we can go work on something else.

 

[jonathanS]

I see your point but I am not brazingly saying “copy this for me” Rather showing the tailor a collection of jackets/designs I find nice and then asking for his opinion on it. “oh i like a high collar, 6x1 button enclosure” and we can work on what his style would be.

I have a good relationship with him where he can just say “thats not going to work for you” and we can go work on something else.

I think that makes it worse. Mixing style goes downhill in a hurry.