Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[ppk]

This looks absolutely great. The fit is fantastic and it has just the right amount of character. I love the Sexton suits I've seen posted here and there. The jackets seem really strong, while still being wearable and comfortable. I just rewatched Argo yesterday on a flight and was admiring the suits and this gives me a similar impression.

I've settled on one-button opening for SB jackets.

Thank you. I'm really happy with the fit as well.

I have a one-button SB, peak lapel suit by Divij and it's amazing. I discussed it with Nina and we agreed that it's the right configuration for this one as well.

I can't wait to get it back. I'll post pics.

 

[JohnStrong]

Hi again,
1) There is a young bespoke shoemaker trained under Stefano Bemer and John Lobb academy. I believe he's the only properly trained shoemaker in Hanoi. His waiting list is quite long now but if you still keen to try in the future, let me know.
2) Tailoring for women is not as developed as it is for men. I don't think there is any tailor focus on womenwear. You could try asking Pham Brothers

Hi Hieu Chu,

Thank you for the response. I’d love to know more about the shoe maker. Does he have a website or instagram?

Best,
John

 

[oldworldelegance]

I have an ongoing fairly heavy tweed jacket project. During autumn I sometimes use such a jacket as 'outerwear'. It's useful if I can close it up to the throat when it's windy. In the past, I've had the tailor put a hidden small button under the collar so the jacket could be closed with the lapel buttonhole.

What do you think of this solution? Should I go for the same in this new jacket or would something like a throat latch be better? I worry that such a latch would push the collar up given the thickness of the tweed.

 

[DorianGreen]

I have an ongoing fairly heavy tweed jacket project. During autumn I sometimes use such a jacket as 'outerwear'. It's useful if I can close it up to the throat when it's windy. In the past, I've had the tailor put a hidden small button under the collar so the jacket could be closed with the lapel buttonhole.

What do you think of this solution? Should I go for the same in this new jacket or would something like a throat latch be better? I worry that such a latch would push the collar up given the thickness of the tweed.

I guess you aready have cut and pattern. If not, I would choose a style designed to have such a feature as a throat latch, a Norfolk would be ideal. I think that the solution proposed would look a little approximate.

https://oxfordclothbuttondown.com/2013/12/the-third-button-and-throat-latch/

 

[DorianGreen]

A Norfolk Jacket by Henry Poole.

 

[oldworldelegance]

I guess you aready have cut and pattern. If not, I would choose a style designed to have such a feature as a throat latch, a Norfolk would be ideal. I think that the solution proposed would look a little approximate.

https://oxfordclothbuttondown.com/2013/12/the-third-button-and-throat-latch/

A Norfolk jacket would be feel too much like costume. However, certain elements could work. A throat latch might require some changes to the collar pattern. I will ask. If not for this jacket, perhaps for a future one.

 

[Old Red]

A Norfolk jacket would be feel too much like costume.

Maybe a Half-Norfolk. I've a piece of LL Outdoorsman's tweed to have one made for the same reasons you want a heavier jacket. This is a 625 gms cloth. I don't know what that means in ounces.

 

[clee1982]

why not go try some RTW with throttle latch and see if it works (on top of my head RL67 from PRL if you’re in the US and want to find something easily accessible)

 

[oldworldelegance]

Maybe a Half-Norfolk. I've a piece of LL Outdoorsman's tweed to have one made for the same reasons you want a heavier jacket. This is a 625 gms cloth. I don't know what that means in ounces. View attachment 2265783

I have the same cloth, so it would be fantastic if you were to share your half-Norfolk jacket once it's made. I probably won't get my Outdoorsman made until next year as other projects take precedence.

 

[_AMD]

I have an ongoing fairly heavy tweed jacket project. During autumn I sometimes use such a jacket as 'outerwear'. It's useful if I can close it up to the throat when it's windy. In the past, I've had the tailor put a hidden small button under the collar so the jacket could be closed with the lapel buttonhole.

What do you think of this solution? Should I go for the same in this new jacket or would something like a throat latch be better? I worry that such a latch would push the collar up given the thickness of the tweed.

I had this feature included on one of my favorite jackets.

 

[ppk]

I have an ongoing fairly heavy tweed jacket project. During autumn I sometimes use such a jacket as 'outerwear'. It's useful if I can close it up to the throat when it's windy. In the past, I've had the tailor put a hidden small button under the collar so the jacket could be closed with the lapel buttonhole.

What do you think of this solution? Should I go for the same in this new jacket or would something like a throat latch be better? I worry that such a latch would push the collar up given the thickness of the tweed.

It's perfectly fine, but a throat latch adds a bit of drama. I guess it depends on what you're looking for. As @clee1982 writes the RL67 sports coats from Polo have a model with an elegant throat latch design. It isn't as costumey as a Norfolk.

 

[oldworldelegance]

The RL67 and @_AMD's model look good although I would have to get used to the the asymmetry of the throat latch. I have RTW overcoat (and a Barbour) with a hidden throat latch under the collar. Would that work for a sportscoat or would it make the collar too bulky?

 

[SimonC]

I have an ongoing fairly heavy tweed jacket project. During autumn I sometimes use such a jacket as 'outerwear'. It's useful if I can close it up to the throat when it's windy. In the past, I've had the tailor put a hidden small button under the collar so the jacket could be closed with the lapel buttonhole.

What do you think of this solution? Should I go for the same in this new jacket or would something like a throat latch be better? I worry that such a latch would push the collar up given the thickness of the tweed.

Personally I have done what you did - just a small jigger button under the opposite lapel. It’s unobtrusive and elegant, whereas many of the alternates convert a jacket into something else entirely and reduce its’ versatility.

 

[comrade]

A Norfolk Jacket by Henry Poole.

View attachment 2265749

Best worn with plus fours. Better yet, plus twos

Men's Shooting Breeks | Plus Fours & Twos | Cordings US

Shop men's breeks at Cordings US and find men's plus fours and twos in quality British tweed. Our men's shooting trousers are perfect for a day in the field.

www.cordings.co.uk

 

[brax]

Thank you. I'm really happy with the fit as well.

I have a one-button SB, peak lapel suit by Divij and it's amazing. I discussed it with Nina and we agreed that it's the right configuration for this one as well.

I can't wait to get it back. I'll post pics.

I think that if one is commissioning a single breasted, peak lapel suit, the only option is 1B.