Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[aristoi bcn]

Combattente:

https://irenebrination.typepad.com/irenebrination_notes_on_a/2009/07/tailoring-neapolitan-school.html

 

[C&A]

Combattente:

View attachment 2158487

https://irenebrination.typepad.com/irenebrination_notes_on_a/2009/07/tailoring-neapolitan-school.html

and on this picture, from the same link, you can see a young Raffaele Iorio

 

[P-K-L]

Hey! Found this forum while searching for some bespoke recommendations for jackets. Seems like you guys def know your stuff!

I'm looking to commission my first (sports? not sure if that's the correct name) jacket with a nice tweed/checks pattern to wear with denim jeans and probably dark t-shirt/knit below.

From my research it looks like the ones in Saville Row have a bigger price, ranging from 3500-6000 pounds for a jacket. The ones in Naples seem to have a more "reasonable" pricing.

Based on this, does anyone have any recommendation of good tailors for me? This is my first time in bespoke. My budget is around 2500€ tops!

Here are a few pictures I've found on Instagram and on this thread that I quite like to make it easier to show what I'm looking for:

View attachment 2157813

View attachment 2157821 View attachment 2157819
Thank you in advance for any help!!

Since one of the pictures is of my jacket- will be happy to introduce you to domenico pirozzi, via chiaia 197

The other long posts are fun to read too btw, thank you forum members

 

[tdang]

I think they make a better single breasted jacket for you.

I agree. Curious to hear your thoughts on the DB though.

 

[lordsuperb]

I agree. Curious to hear your thoughts on the DB though.

The jacket definitely gives off a louche vibe but the droopy shoulders and the enclosure makes it makes it seem like it should be worn by an older individual. Also, my eyes are drawn to your hips. I’ve seen you in other DBs and they seemed modern and better suited for your body.

Also, you have a decent sized wardrobe from different tailors. Have you assessed which cuts work best for your intended lifestyle? I’m constantly comparing my suits and jackets to figure out what is appropriate for certain situations.

 

[tdang]

The jacket definitely gives off a louche vibe but the droopy shoulders and the enclosure makes it makes it seem like it should be worn by an older individual. Also, my eyes are drawn to your hips. I’ve seen you in other DBs and they seemed modern and better suited for your body.

Also, you have a decent sized wardrobe from different tailors. Have you assessed which cuts work best for your intended lifestyle? I’m constantly comparing my suits and jackets to figure out what is appropriate for certain situations.

I see what you mean. I like things soft and easy (and I slouch a lot) so I happen to be drawn to that saggy old man look you referred to. But you’re right to point out the hip issue - I have a bigger hip which gets accentuated if it’s not cut close to the body.

Corcos seems to fit me the best, now that we’ve agreed on going ventless with future commissions.

 

[CLH03]

I see what you mean. I like things soft and easy (and I slouch a lot) so I happen to be drawn to that saggy old man look you referred to. But you’re right to point out the hip issue - I have a bigger hip which gets accentuated if it’s not cut close to the body.

Corcos seems to fit me the best, now that we’ve agreed on going ventless with future commissions.

View attachment 2158545

Corcos’ DB is easily the best looking cut I’ve seen just in general. I really like the double buttonholes he does as well.

 

[Mr. Six]

3 jackets about to be delivered 😻


View attachment 2155723

Fabric ID, please. Nice choices all around, but that one looks particularly interesting.

 

[jonathanS]

Or it may be the greatest of all Neapolitan masters, Roberto MARARO formerly known to the world as Mohamad Ayoubi. lol

Yes, that’s the guy!!!!!

I see what you mean. I like things soft and easy (and I slouch a lot) so I happen to be drawn to that saggy old man look you referred to. But you’re right to point out the hip issue - I have a bigger hip which gets accentuated if it’s not cut close to the body.

Corcos seems to fit me the best, now that we’ve agreed on going ventless with future commissions.

View attachment 2158545

Your db from kotaro fits better than the one from liverano. BUT, I don’t like dbs as odd jackets (generally). My eye is toward jackets as sb.

Corcos’ DB is easily the best looking cut I’ve seen just in general. I really like the double buttonholes he does as well.

It’s funny because kotaro has a strong preference toward single breasted jackets (at least that’s the way it seems). I think he said 90% of his orders are single breasted.

Whereas I remember satoki told me 60% of his orders were db. He further said he thought the contrast made sense because, to him, the Florentine style was better as a sb & Milanese style was better as a db. I tend to agree with satoki san on this. Empirically, all my orders with kotaro have been sb & that’s unlikely to change.

 

[BlueSteel]

Since one of the pictures is of my jacket- will be happy to introduce you to domenico pirozzi, via chiaia 197

The other long posts are fun to read too btw, thank you forum members

I thought they moved location now to Casalnuovo?

 

[aristoi bcn]

I thought they moved location now to Casalnuovo?

The Pirozzi who moved to Casualnuovo is the other Pirozzi, the one who is not as good as the one always in via chiaia 197.

 

[BlueSteel]

The Pirozzi who moved to Casualnuovo is the other Pirozzi, the one who is not as good as the one always in via chiaia 197.

Ahhh - thanks for clarifying that! Is the Pirozzi that comes to NYC these days the one from Casalnuovo, or the one in Chiaia?

 

[aristoi bcn]

The one from Casalnuovo. The one from always in via chiaia 197 doesn’t travel, besides our friends @C&A, @P-K-L, Conchita Wurst and maybe selected others, he has mostly napoletani and italian friend customers.

 

[P-K-L]

The one from Casalnuovo. The one from always in via chiaia 197 doesn’t travel, besides our friends @C&A, @P-K-L, Conchita Wurst and maybe selected others, he has mostly napoletani and italian friend customers.

He does travel, however only to places like Rome and Milan. He would like to come to Germany and Paris though.

 

[C&A]

He does travel, however only to places like Rome and Milan. He would like to come to Germany and Paris though.

He has very romantic Neapolitan dreams about the harsh cold winters we endure in Holland. He speaks about it as though it is bordering to the north pole.