Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[ericgereghty]

View attachment 2053909

Took my latest Pastena commission out for a spin. LP wool/silk seersucker.

I'm a big fan of how my requested tweaks -- extended shoulder with minimal padding and a more capped expression, lowered gorge, lowered chest pocket, lowered buttoning point -- panned out. Going to get this same silhouette going again on a Zegna CashCo number.

Worth noting, the legs aren't as skinny as they appear. The cloth is fantastic but is so thin it's prone to clinging at the sock. Have to figure out a solve for that.

Was the goal of the "capped" shoulder more of a cadente/morbida (educate me of the actual term, someone) than a spalla camicia?

Looks great, in any event. Love the navy plain suits that are anything but...

 

[jonathanS]

I don’t know why you’d choose mid calf socks instead of over calf socks, I’d go crazy constantly pulling my socks back up with the former.

This is why I’d rather go sockless than wear mid calf socks. It drives me nuts feeling like I have something falling around my ankle.

I prefer otc socks as well, but, my otc socks keep slipping down! Idk why

If going with Oxfords, I don’t care how much it will slip, I need socks. But I go sockless with loafers. I’ve tried no show socks. But they never work. I think they wore holes or slipped off the foot entirely. Drives me nuts.

 

[paxonus]

I prefer otc socks as well, but, my otc socks keep slipping down! Idk why

If going with Oxfords, I don’t care how much it will slip, I need socks. But I go sockless with loafers. I’ve tried no show socks. But they never work. I think they wore holes or slipped off the foot entirely. Drives me nuts.

I've tried a lot of no-show socks and finally found one that does not slip.

Ondo

I have tried the regular. I can't speak to the low cut.

 

[bourbonbasted]

Was the goal of the "capped" shoulder more of a cadente/morbida (educate me of the actual term, someone) than a spalla camicia?

Looks great, in any event. Love the navy plain suits that are anything but...

I didn't give much direction, tbh. I requested a less formal and more natural, extended shoulder, and this is the result. While the more dramatic Eyetalian expressions have their place, I feel the Neapolitans can get a little exaggerated. As someone with relatively wide shoulders and athletic build, I'd prefer a softer, more natural look and feel.

 

[Texasmade]

I prefer otc socks as well, but, my otc socks keep slipping down! Idk why

No calfs bro… you need to stop skipping leg days

 

[jonathanS]

No calfs bro… you need to stop skipping leg days

Lol the opposite. They’re not long enough to wrap around the calf muscles 🤷🏻‍♂️ it doesn’t have enough sock to cover it.

I’m replying from the gym doing legs - good thing I went today!

@Texasmade Did you ever end up ordering from qemal?

I've tried a lot of no-show socks and finally found one that does not slip.

Ondo

I have tried the regular. I can't speak to the low cut.

Interesting. I’ll take a look.

 

[brax]

OTC socks are fine when playing soccer or football but I hate them as dress socks.

Few things ruin a good looking suit more quickly than skin showing from the bottom of the pents. I only wear OTC.

Think of them as compression socks. You’ll get used to it.

 

[ericgereghty]

I didn't give much direction, tbh. I requested a less formal and more natural, extended shoulder, and this is the result. While the more dramatic Eyetalian expressions have their place, I feel the Neapolitans can get a little exaggerated. As someone with relatively wide shoulders and athletic build, I'd prefer a softer, more natural look and feel.

I feel similarly. The proper Neapolitan look doesn’t flatter my build at all. Gives off very pirate shirt poofy shoulders…and I don’t wanna be a pirate!!!! I’ve oddly found more structured shoulders (hardly old school SR structure, of course) tend to do a better job of downplaying delts.

Few things ruin a good looking suit more quickly than skin showing from the bottom of the pents. I only wear OTC.

Think of them as compression socks. You’ll get used to it.

+1. Unless you’re no show sock/sockless (latter is gross, but you do you lol) and fully committed to the bit, mid calf will invariably look silly at points throughout the day…And would foot a bottle of at least quasi-top shelf hooch to the man who can’t anatomically accommodate OTCs

 

[FT412]

I wouldn’t make those design choices today.

There are flaps on the pockets. I just tuck them in, I default to welted pockets.

I’m not sure yet what the plan for this jacket is; I may replace it with a cashmere straight 2 button (no roll) because the button on the roll bothers me a tad (but not much). Then put blond horn buttons on this jacket. But I’ll probably let the tailor make the call on that.


Thanks, I have 3 or 4 things coming this fall / winter from him (unsure if the 1kg cashmere will be ready) & I think that jacket is probably the one I’m looking forward to wearing the most. Dressed up with flannels and a turtleneck or down with jeans & a polo.

The other 2 garments are a sb medium gray flannel & db navy chalkstripe flannel, both are old Harrison’s fabrics, back with fox made the flannel for Harrison’s. I believe they’re from the early 90s or 2000s. But I haven’t been wearing a suit as often as I thought, hence why I’m so excited about the brown gunclub w/ blue overcheck jacket.

Tbh, I have no idea if it’ll have welted or patched pockets. It’s fine either way, I’d lean toward patch, but I’m not sure if there was enough fabric for patched



Now this is what I’m talking about! Blue jackets are a sign of good taste. 😂

On the topic of blue jackets & blazers,

I’m thinking about having a spring summer version made too - not sure yet. That’s on the agenda for this spring / summer. I have a wool/linen blend fabric on hold from one of my tailors (Milanese) but I might do 2: one a blazer (gold buttons), and one either pearl or blond horn button.

And then, my thought is this blue jacket fabric for spring summer View attachment 2054235

I had one made from this fabric over the summer, happy I did was one of my favorite go to SCs

 

[jonathanS]

I had one made from this fabric over the summer, happy I did was one of my favorite go to SCs

That photo is from the first time I met a bespoke tailor. Didn’t order it because it was a first jacket, always wanted to come back to it. How does it breathe in the summer?

You can never have too many blue jackets. That’s just a fact.

 

[FT412]

That photo is from the first time I met a bespoke tailor. Didn’t order it because it was a first jacket, always wanted to come back to it. How does it breathe in the summer?

You can never have too many blue jackets. That’s just a fact.

Doesn’t breath like the go to high twist usuals , but it’s fine for a mild summer day I’m in upstate new york and I agree about blue jackets and I love the way the yellow looks in the jacket !

 

[jonathanS]

Doesn’t breath like the go to high twist usuals , but it’s fine for a mild summer day I’m in upstate new york and I agree about blue jackets and I love the way the yellow looks in the jacket !

To me, it’s very southern Italy. I’d imagine walking around in positano, capri or even Napoli with the jacket.

and it makes sense, sense positano is known for their lemons. The blue water with the lemons.

the blue and yellow goes well together. Would be great with cream or yellow linen trousers. Would I be nuts to add yellow linen to my wish list for next year? Idk. I’m thinking about it

 

[9thsymph]

Full break or go home!

But fair enough. These days I wear oxfords like once a year, for the big meetings. I go for chelseas, loafers or opera pumps...there is no in between!

*goes home and chills in proper, no-break trousers …*

 

[FT412]

To me, it’s very southern Italy. I’d imagine walking around in positano, capri or even Napoli with the jacket.

and it makes sense, sense positano is known for their lemons. The blue water with the lemons.

the blue and yellow goes well together. Would be great with cream or yellow linen trousers. Would I be nuts to add yellow linen to my wish list for next year? Idk. I’m thinking about it

I write them with charcoal or light grey pants but you have me thinking about light yellow linen, I do have a light yellow pants made from Fox khaki but linen would be better

 

[The Chai]

*goes home and chills in proper, no-break trousers …*

In fairness, full break is not that conducive for heavy disco dancing...