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JohnMRobie

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Is Kent Wang still the best option when it comes to made to measure?

Getting married in late May at 5pm with reception to follow until 11pm. Anticipate temperatures in the 70s. Attire for the event will be listed as 'Formal'.
I have a jacket and pattern mostly dialed in with Luxire, and somewhat dialed in with Proper Cloth. Trying to decide whether it's worth going with Kent Wang versus Luxire. Any thoughts?

Planning to wear:
- Navy 3-piece suit (fabric undecided but looking for recommendations)
- Black Carmina oxfords with high shine
- Pantherella Navy socks
- Kent Wang White linen pocket square
- Proper Cloth white french cuff shirt
- Kent Wang / Sam Hober / Drakes wedding tie (glen plaid, etc.)

Though, in the back of my mind I truly love the idea of wearing a tuxedo but the event begins at 5pm and I don't anticipate many guests to arrive in black tie.
Re: MTM it depends where you’re located (and who can finish it within your needed timeframe). If you’re NY based The Armoury may be able to do something in that timeframe. No Man Walks Alone may be able to. J. Mueser. would be another option to check out and is a 2.5-3 month process.

I would personally not do a remote MTM that I haven’t tried before or been measured in person for on this short of a timeline and with a firm deadline that’s important.

As for your thoughts on wearing a tuxedo, my unsolicited 2¢ is that if you’ve set the dress code as formal, think any guests will arrive in BT and want to wear a tux for your wedding in the back of your mind, I’d wear it.

There’s no rule that says you need to match your guests but I wouldn’t want to be dressed less formally than any of my guests.
 

Cidermonk

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Re: MTM it depends where you’re located (and who can finish it within your needed timeframe). If you’re NY based The Armoury may be able to do something in that timeframe. No Man Walks Alone may be able to. J. Mueser. would be another option to check out and is a 2.5-3 month process.

I would personally not do a remote MTM that I haven’t tried before or been measured in person for on this short of a timeline and with a firm deadline that’s important.

As for your thoughts on wearing a tuxedo, my unsolicited 2¢ is that if you’ve set the dress code as formal, think any guests will arrive in BT and want to wear a tux for your wedding in the back of your mind, I’d wear it.

There’s no rule that says you need to match your guests but I wouldn’t want to be dressed less formally than any of my guests.
Yeah, I've pretty much done a 180 over night and I would love to wear a tuxedo. Does the armoury even offer MTM/bespoke or is it solely OTR? Pretty steep price point for off-the-rack.
 

JohnMRobie

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Yeah, I've pretty much done a 180 over night and I would love to wear a tuxedo. Does the armoury even offer MTM/bespoke or is it solely OTR? Pretty steep price point for off-the-rack.
Yes they have MTM through a couple different companies and can also facilitate bespoke and regularly host trunk shows. Your timeline is likely too tight for bespoke.
 

Cidermonk

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Yes they have MTM through a couple different companies and can also facilitate bespoke and regularly host trunk shows. Your timeline is likely too tight for bespoke.
I have my eyes on the Armoury. Contacting them now, thank you for your help!
 

ter1413

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gimpwiz

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Which is a bit ironic as "BTO" is quite a bit less formal than "Formal."

Anyways, not that you need affirmation from internet strangers, but I am all for it. You'll look sharp. I would personally be a bit leery about remote MTM within the required timeframe. Do you have your eyes on a local tailor you think can help getting the fine details dialed in? You'd definitely need it for any remote MTM.
 

Nicks244

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Going to my first ever wedding and it is black tie. Looking at Bonobos tuxedos (cheapest wool tux I can find when I factor in my extra 20% student discount. I am a poor grad student so around $400 is my budget and Bonobos is under that). Looking for something that will last since I am 25 and would like to wear it a few times so trying to avoid something too trendy. I plan to get the tuxedo altered after purchasing.

Now it’s time for the age old question. Is the Bonobos Shawl or Peak lapel preferable? I am concerned about the peak lapels being too skinny.
 

gimpwiz

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*If* you have decided on getting it from Bonobos, note that their website says they seem to be selling jacket + pants separately for less ($199 + $79 on sale) than the tux combined ($368 on sale) at https://bonobos.com/search?term=tuxedo but if you click through you get 199 + 169. Maybe they'd honor the price in-shore? :)

*If* you have decided on getting it from Bonobos, those peaks look weak to me and I like the shawl more.

The wrinkle is that you will also need to account for a waist covering, shoes, socks, a shirt, a bowtie, a pocket square, links, and usually studs. Plus as you mentioned, tailoring. You can cut some corners, but if you cut too many it won't look right. You can trade time for money by shopping used (vintage, or just used). You will need at minimum black shoes that are clean and as shined as possible, which you may already be able to do. Dark socks that don't look stupid if someone sees them, you don't need more if you're trying not to spend. A real bow-tie is best, again, doable on a budget. You can find some vintage cufflinks for almost nothing on ebay or etsy, just don't get some cringy ones. Same for studs, though sometimes there's a mismatch between the stud size and shirt buttonhole (stud hole) size. The shirt may add a significant complication - you want a white, french cuff shirt, made of good fabric, and it needs to fit as well as your jacket and trousers, which may require tailoring. A plain white linen pocket square should be easy to find for a low price - nice ones are nice but don't sweat it too much, just make sure it's white. (Cotton or linen are acceptable, chances are nobody will notice or care.) And you should be able to find a black satin cummerbund in spades on ebay, aim for vintage over brand new at low price points, because brand new ones that are cheap are gonna suck. Really try not to skip this.

If you are trying to avoid trendy, which is a good idea for a dinner suit, stay away from the super slim stuff. Traditionally, a dinner suit has trousers that are cut to be quite full. Often you wear a waist larger than your normal size and use suspenders (but that'll add another cost to you.) Similarly, the jacket should have sleeves that don't ride up your arms, and you'd usually want a chest that's more full, and a back that's less form fitting, etc. The problem is that you're going for a brand that... well, focuses on trendy. So make sure you go in with a trusted friend who can give you good fit feedback, because the sales people aren't to be relied on in such a store.

Also, *if* you buy it from there - make sure you tuck the pocket flaps in so they appear as close to jetted as you're gonna get, because a proper tux doesn't have flapped pockets, but tucking the flaps in is usually good enough. Nothing can be done about the existence of the butt pockets or visible front pockets of the pants, such is life. A tailor should be able to stitch up the vents in your jacket. Overall the offering is, stylistically, far better than what people were bemoaning ten years ago, so it's not a lost cause.

Now if you want my honest opinion, it'd be to try to find a dinner suit from somewhere else. Used is the way to go, if you can find something that fits, if you're on a strict budget. But again that means trading time for money. Hit up some vintage stores and consignment stores in the area, bring a clothing tape measure, and figure out what fits and what doesn't (ie, even if nothing fits, write down the dimensions and what was wrong, this will help tremendously if you want to buy used or online).
 

Nicks244

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*If* you have decided on getting it from Bonobos, note that their website says they seem to be selling jacket + pants separately for less ($199 + $79 on sale) than the tux combined ($368 on sale) at https://bonobos.com/search?term=tuxedo but if you click through you get 199 + 169. Maybe they'd honor the price in-shore? :)

*If* you have decided on getting it from Bonobos, those peaks look weak to me and I like the shawl more.

The wrinkle is that you will also need to account for a waist covering, shoes, socks, a shirt, a bowtie, a pocket square, links, and usually studs. Plus as you mentioned, tailoring. You can cut some corners, but if you cut too many it won't look right. You can trade time for money by shopping used (vintage, or just used). You will need at minimum black shoes that are clean and as shined as possible, which you may already be able to do. Dark socks that don't look stupid if someone sees them, you don't need more if you're trying not to spend. A real bow-tie is best, again, doable on a budget. You can find some vintage cufflinks for almost nothing on ebay or etsy, just don't get some cringy ones. Same for studs, though sometimes there's a mismatch between the stud size and shirt buttonhole (stud hole) size. The shirt may add a significant complication - you want a white, french cuff shirt, made of good fabric, and it needs to fit as well as your jacket and trousers, which may require tailoring. A plain white linen pocket square should be easy to find for a low price - nice ones are nice but don't sweat it too much, just make sure it's white. (Cotton or linen are acceptable, chances are nobody will notice or care.) And you should be able to find a black satin cummerbund in spades on ebay, aim for vintage over brand new at low price points, because brand new ones that are cheap are gonna suck. Really try not to skip this.

If you are trying to avoid trendy, which is a good idea for a dinner suit, stay away from the super slim stuff. Traditionally, a dinner suit has trousers that are cut to be quite full. Often you wear a waist larger than your normal size and use suspenders (but that'll add another cost to you.) Similarly, the jacket should have sleeves that don't ride up your arms, and you'd usually want a chest that's more full, and a back that's less form fitting, etc. The problem is that you're going for a brand that... well, focuses on trendy. So make sure you go in with a trusted friend who can give you good fit feedback, because the sales people aren't to be relied on in such a store.

Also, *if* you buy it from there - make sure you tuck the pocket flaps in so they appear as close to jetted as you're gonna get, because a proper tux doesn't have flapped pockets, but tucking the flaps in is usually good enough. Nothing can be done about the existence of the butt pockets or visible front pockets of the pants, such is life. A tailor should be able to stitch up the vents in your jacket. Overall the offering is, stylistically, far better than what people were bemoaning ten years ago, so it's not a lost cause.

Now if you want my honest opinion, it'd be to try to find a dinner suit from somewhere else. Used is the way to go, if you can find something that fits, if you're on a strict budget. But again that means trading time for money. Hit up some vintage stores and consignment stores in the area, bring a clothing tape measure, and figure out what fits and what doesn't (ie, even if nothing fits, write down the dimensions and what was wrong, this will help tremendously if you want to buy used or online).
I should have specified that $400 is the budget for the jacket and pants only but thank you for the heads up on the savings for purchasing separately! That’s huge. Unfortunately I’m in a more rural college town so it’s slim pickings in the used market but I will also check those out.
 

jeremygo

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Some vintage shops will ship as well if you're open to that/trust their sizing. I know Crowley Vintage in Brooklyn has a ton of well curated stuff - but his prices are a tad on the higher side I would say. I've bought some sportcoats/ties/pocket squares from him, but I'm sure they have more formal items.
 

Nicks244

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If a current slim fit tuxedo jacket fits well, with about 3 inches give around the stomach/chest, is it advisable to exchange it for standard fit jacket, get it altered to be a bit more slim (around the current slim fit silhouette) so there is more fabric to take it out in case I gain some weight around the gut? Planning for the worst over here…
 

gumercindo

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Hi gents: Am invited to my first beach wedding and I'm lost. Wedding will be in Cancun at around 5pm in mid May. So, it will be toasty. The ceremony will be on the sand and the rest of the evening will be on a large wooden floor. For trousers, I have a pair of light ivory David Chu pants that will be perfect. I have a couple shirting options that are linen/cotton blends (white or light blue). Tie I can figure out. Jacket and shoes are my challenges. For a jacket, I only have blue (on the darkish side rather than light) light wool option. I was thinking of springing for a lighter color blend like this one:


As for shoes, I have either leather souled laceups/loafers, soft suede driver types or espadrilles (navy/tan/etc). I would love to wear a pair of suede unlined loafers (https://meermin.com/products/114414-copper-alicante-suede-e) but probably not the best idea.

Thoughts?
 

jeremygo

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Any thoughts on this dove grey hopsack tie from Vanda as a wedding tie with a navy suit? I haven’t been wild about the traditional houndstooth/shepard check look and this seems like it could be a nice alternative.

 

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