'New' overcoat - able to be tailored or lost cause?

[MichaelPatrick]

Hi all,

Here's the deal: I purchased for $40 a stylishly unique, quality sew

n Burberry overcoat that has a heavier amount of wool than I've ever found in a coat. The problem is that it is far too large for me. If this coat were not as nice as it is, I wouldn't hesitate reselling it, but alas, here we are (see pics below).

In terms of fit, it needs a lot of altering, however, the shoulders are not big on me because the jacket lacks shoulder sticking, instead just draping seamlessly. I had a high-end tailor look at it and he said that he could make it work for $500 (pull in the chest/back, shorten and taper the sleeves, and shorten the length a bit), though it may be a little loose in the chest near the arms. He, however, was pinning it to be tailored slim and I actually think this coat is better suited with a more traditional cut. (He also said that even if I don't use him, $500 is a good price for a coat valued at at least $5000). I have a phenomenal new tailor who is an older man who gives great deals, as his job is more for pleasure than profit at this point.

So, here are my questions: if I can get the coat tailored for less than $500, is it worth it or is the coat simply too large to take the chance? Furthermore, how 'tailored' do you think I should get it? Any input on good questions that I've overlooked is welcome as well!

 

[dieworkwear]

With all the usual caveats that judging fit online can be a challenge and this is best done by a tailor (ideally one with a good stylistic eye) in-person, I think that coat could work if you shortened the sleeves and took up the hem. Sleeves look a bit baggy, but maybe they can be slimmed down a little. I wouldn't slim up the body though. That raglan sleeved style looks better oversized.

I would have the sleeves altered first to where you need (so they at least cover the sleeves of a sport coat if you want to layer). Then bring up the hem to just below the knees or knee-length. That shouldn't cost you $500. I imagine it's closer to like $50-100. At that point, you can wear the coat for a season and see how you feel about it.

 

[jdp234]

Also move the back belt loops up to your natural waist (meaning 4-5” higher).

 

[comrade]

Find a really good tailor, if you don't already
have one. This isn't a job for someone who mostly
cuffs pants and takes in jackets. You can lose the
belt loops. To me a Balmacaan looks better without
a "bathrobe" belt.

 

[Alan Bee]

@dieworkwear

And how about the position of the pockets? You can’t move that up.

Even if you shorten the coat at the hem, the balance would look off.

@MichaelPatrick

I think this one might be a bridge too far.

Alan Bee

With all the usual caveats that judging fit online can be a challenge and this is best done by a tailor (ideally one with a good stylistic eye) in-person, I think that coat could work if you shortened the sleeves and took up the hem. Sleeves look a bit baggy, but maybe they can be slimmed down a little. I wouldn't slim up the body though. That raglan sleeved style looks better oversized.

I would have the sleeves altered first to where you need (so they at least cover the sleeves of a sport coat if you want to layer). Then bring up the hem to just below the knees or knee-length. That shouldn't cost you $500. I imagine it's closer to like $50-100. At that point, you can wear the coat for a season and see how you feel about it.

posit

 

[pleatedjeans]

coat's cool

shorten the sleeves
move the belt up
shorten the body if you want, but dont try and bring it shorter than your knees - I'd leave it long

 

[MichaelPatrick]

Thank you for your responses, everyone! @dieworkwear @jdp234 @comrade @Alan Bee @pleatedjeans !

I think that going forward, I am going to do the following based on your suggestions:

1) shorten the sleeves to the base of my thumb, or just above. This is how I like my overcoats, as it sufficiently covers my oxford shirts, suit sleeves and sweater sleeves.

2) Taper the sleeves just a bit. I intend to leave the looser styling of a balmacaan, but still allowing the coat to look a bit more neat.

3) Raising the belt loops just a bit to allow the belt to sit at my waist. While I can understand why some people don't like the belted look on this style coat, I think the belt allows for the coat to accent my figure and style it up a bit.

4) Raise the hem by about 6 to 9 inches, playing around with where it looks best. I am definitely going to leave it below my knees. The question is just how low will look good.

5) Bring in the back by a few inches. Unfortunately, the pictures I posted do not sufficiently show just how much extra material there is in the back. No doubt, this is where the cost in tailoring will be found (my guess is about $100 based on my tailor's pricing). I have no intention of robbing from the coat its original style as a balmacaan, however, if I do not bring it in by about 6 inches, it will look like I am wearing a wool tarp as it simply bunches up in the back too much. I can post a picture of this if you'd like to see for yourself...

@Alan Bee : You make an important point about the pockets. I think that they may look lower than they actually are. I just tried the coat on again and the pocket line up nicely with my arms. The pockets are definitely deep to the point where I can't easily each the bottom of them with my fingers, but the actual position of the pockets isn't a problem. Indeed, they would ideally be about an inch higher, though I don't see the balance being thrown off.

@comrade I have to thank you for giving me the correct name for this style coat! I was not familiar with Balmacaan's prior to your post (I suspect the the famous NYC-based tailor who is widely referenced on the forum was not familiar with it either, based on how he wanted to modify the coat. Indeed, he pinned it up so as to make it fit like a chesterfield!). After reading up on it a bit, I am going to base the tailoring on how Roger Moore's looked in The Naked Face: http://www.thetweedpig.com/2017/11/the-enduring-appeal-of-balmacaan.html.

Naturally, any more thoughts are welcome, as is a request for a photo illustrating why I think the back needs to be brought in a bit...

Thank you all again!

Michael[/QUOTE]

 

[dieworkwear]

Pocket placement seems fine to me.

Without seeing a photo of the back, I vote for keeping it tarp like. This is a nice fit below for the style. Also see brands like E. Tautz or Deveaux.

 

[Despos]

Congrats on a great find. Beautiful coat!
Hard to assess everything about the fit from the photos. Be cautious what you do so as not to compromise the proportions of this piece. When you start reducing here and a little bit there it can create an out of balance look and accentuate one area in relation to others.
Adjust the length but keep it balanced with the fullness of the body. Too short and you look boxy. Girth is balanced by length. Your tailor can baste the hem up without opening anything very easily. This coat needs the belt and I suggest you cinch the belt to create a waist and not reduce the back. Take a look at the length with the belt cinched as when the belt is tight it will draw the coat length up a bit. It would help to raise the location of the belt. This coat is meant to drape rather than contour to the lines of your body.
If you plan to wear a jacket under this, wear it when you have the sleeve length marked because the sleeves are a lot of work to shorten. You want to avoid a redo. This coat will fit much differently with a jacket under than how it fits with just your sweater and will effect the sleeve length. Coat will look better with a longish sleeve. A little longer than your reference. The work is time consuming because tapering the sleeve is done only on the outseam which runs on the outside of your arm. It is both a bit easier and a bit harder because it is a raglan. Easier because you don't have to open the armhole. If you look at the sleeve you see this seam is topstitched. This has to be undone, tapered, move the strap up and stitch again which is a pain when the sleeve and coat are already made. You have to do the same tapering to the lining. When the new sleeve length is determined, the circumference of the opening will be much larger as you see the sleeve gets wider as it moves upwards. Taper the sleeve to a circumference of about 6.5" or 13". This will taper the sleeve but retain the original intent of the design.Don't try to trim it down. Guessing from the picture the opening may be 7" or larger. This sleeve is meant to hang straight without much if any curvature.
$500.00 is a deal to do this work properly and not rush or take short cuts.

 

[MichaelPatrick]

@dieworkwear Thanks for the additional feedback and photo. I just realized that you are the author of the blog where that photo is from! I am posting a bunch of photos that better show the width of the coat, both with and without the belt. I look forward to your thoughts!

 

[Despos]

Adjust length of sleeve and taper to a new opening circumference. Move belt up. Shorten length of the body. That's all. You'll be amazed how much better the coat will look with only the sleeve adjustment.

 

[MichaelPatrick]

@Despos Thank you so much for your detailed reply! And thank you, I, too, think the coat is gorgeous. I've summarized your post below. I think this covers everything. I noticed that you seem to think that the width of the coat is fine. Can you please look at the new photos I posted to see if they change your mind? Thanks!

Length:
1) Shorten only a bit in order to balance girth, avoiding the coat looking boxy
2) Baste the hem rather than opening it up
3) Adjust length while wearing the belt

Belt
1) Keep the belt – it creates a waist without reducing the back
2) Raise the belt loops to align with waist

Sleeves
1) Markup sleeves while wearing a jacket
2) Longer sleeve will look better based on style
3) Sleeve is larger as it goes up. As such, it is necessary to taper it. Circumference should be 6.5”/13” – this will taper the sleeve but keep the intention of the design (sleeve is meant to hang without curvature)

 

[MichaelPatrick]

@Despos Thank you so much for your detailed reply! And thank you, I, too, think the coat is gorgeous. I've summarized your post below. I think this covers everything. I noticed that you seem to think that the width of the coat is fine. Can you please look at the new photos I posted to see if they change your mind? Thanks!

Length:
1) Shorten only a bit in order to balance girth, avoiding the coat looking boxy
2) Baste the hem rather than opening it up
3) Adjust length while wearing the belt

Belt
1) Keep the belt – it creates a waist without reducing the back
2) Raise the belt loops to align with waist

Sleeves
1) Markup sleeves while wearing a jacket
2) Longer sleeve will look better based on style
3) Sleeve is larger as it goes up. As such, it is necessary to taper it. Circumference should be 6.5”/13” – this will taper the sleeve but keep the intention of the design (sleeve is meant to hang without curvature)

Ha! Sorry @Despos I just saw your updated response. Thanks!

 

[FlyingHorker]

Adjust length of sleeve and taper to a new opening circumference. Move belt up. Shorten length of the body. That's all. You'll be amazed how much better the coat will look with only the sleeve adjustment.

Agreed.

The raglan shoulder and belt really help create a nice slouchy silhouette overall and gives it a lot of shape.

 

[MichaelPatrick]

@Despos Sorry, last question: I check the circumference of the sleeves. The base of the sleeve is 7 3/4"/15.5" whereas the sleeve just below the armpit measures in at 10"/20". Should I tell my tailor to simply taper the sleeve by 1.25"/2/5" all the way up? Or should I tell him to make it 6.5"/13" at the opening and the rest he should know?